Noisy Fuel pump and other things....
05-14-2007, 05:14 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Noisy Fuel pump and other things....
I replaced my pump 2 years ago (about 2000 miles) and today sitting at an idle I could really hear it running loudly from back in the hatch area. I dont recall it being that loud before is this normal?
Oh and speaking of whirring sounds, what is that small fan noise coming from behind the pod? maybe a climate control thingy? I know that area needs some work, the heat is stuck on and the ac doesnt even try to come on.
Oh and speaking of whirring sounds, what is that small fan noise coming from behind the pod? maybe a climate control thingy? I know that area needs some work, the heat is stuck on and the ac doesnt even try to come on.
05-14-2007, 07:27 PM
#3
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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With more than about half a tank of gas, I think the in-tank pump is pretty darn quiet.
You can build/fabricate/use a wire jumper between 30 and 87 in the fuel pump relay sockets to get the fuel pump(s) to run continuously without running the engine. Great diagnostic tool, since you can hear the pumps without any engine or exhaust noise to muffle the pump sounds. Under the rear, you can unplug either pump to isolate noises to one or the other.
Whirring sound in the dash--
There's an almost-silent fan that's part of the dashboard temperature sensor package, that little plastic grill thing between the console and the glovebox in the face of the dash. The fans draw only the cleanest filtered air (that you've filtered through your own lungs) plus any dirt/dust/crud that blows in through the vents or the windows or sunroof openings. You may need to blow some of the filtered metarial out of the fan blades, maybe with a bit of compressed air or one of those canned-air computer de-duster products. Blowing from the outside bezel through the fan blades is a crapshoot, but if yours is already noisy give it a go! R&R requires the console and the glovebox liner out of the way for access, so a shot of cleaning air won't leave you any worse off than when you start, even if you do just blow all the dirt into the fan blades.
You can build/fabricate/use a wire jumper between 30 and 87 in the fuel pump relay sockets to get the fuel pump(s) to run continuously without running the engine. Great diagnostic tool, since you can hear the pumps without any engine or exhaust noise to muffle the pump sounds. Under the rear, you can unplug either pump to isolate noises to one or the other.
Whirring sound in the dash--
There's an almost-silent fan that's part of the dashboard temperature sensor package, that little plastic grill thing between the console and the glovebox in the face of the dash. The fans draw only the cleanest filtered air (that you've filtered through your own lungs) plus any dirt/dust/crud that blows in through the vents or the windows or sunroof openings. You may need to blow some of the filtered metarial out of the fan blades, maybe with a bit of compressed air or one of those canned-air computer de-duster products. Blowing from the outside bezel through the fan blades is a crapshoot, but if yours is already noisy give it a go! R&R requires the console and the glovebox liner out of the way for access, so a shot of cleaning air won't leave you any worse off than when you start, even if you do just blow all the dirt into the fan blades.
05-15-2007, 01:56 AM
#4
If you check the Archives the rule of thumb was-I believe- that if the stranier or tank pump gets clogged /restricted then the last pump in the system has to work extremely hard to pass/pump
the fuel. In effect the good pump is making the racket but is not the culprit, just yet.
However, you have to check the WSM's to see if you have 1 or 2 pumps.
I'm not sure if all 928's have 2 pumps.
Guru's?
the fuel. In effect the good pump is making the racket but is not the culprit, just yet.
However, you have to check the WSM's to see if you have 1 or 2 pumps.
I'm not sure if all 928's have 2 pumps.
Guru's?
