Rob - interesting link - seems the #80 works better in heat resistance than the #90 even though the #90 is supposed to be for heavier duty and was what was recommended for use...

The #90 certainly sticks well - when cool its solidly stuck - but it becomes plastic and droopy at high hood temps - still quite tacky (after a year!) but not enough to hold the foam firmly... Seems the #80 buys maybe 45-50 degree more heat tolerance - maybe that is enough.... I was disasapointed with the #90 (not cheap!).

The only good news is that on a hot day i know I can cook the hood insulation sufficiently that I can peel the whole thing off without damage... What I don't know is how to clean off the residue on the foam side to get a fresh start... not looking forward to cleaning the hood side off yet again either...

Alan

 

I just ordered a can of this -...from here - Sparkle Auto. With shipping $16. Found by a Google search. I have no personal interest except they're in Kansas (and a small business).

 

If you order a new hood liner from Porsche it already has the glue installed so all that has to happen is to get all of the old glue off the underside of the hood and stick on the new liner, i found that PB blaster or liquid wrench work about the best for softening the old stuff, it is not very hard to do, 2 people will have better results, test fit the liner with the backing installed first

 

When I bought the replacement pad from 928 INTL, it did not have an adhesive back. I asked Mark Anderson what adhesive they recommended and he said 3M77 spray adhesive. I have not looked at what temp range this is good for, but it is pretty common stuff.

 

We get pads with the adhesive already to go, they seem like factory pads as they match the old foam perfectly . I had no idea that they came without the adhesive already applied, LSNED

 

This thread will date some of us.
Like Rog, I tarped,with an old bed sheet.
For a scrapper I used an old kitchen spatula -cheap-, it was very effective.
Think calm day or inside garage work though as the dead foam is light and gets around.
While I pondered paint thinners, glue removers the BTDT crew advised the removal
of only MAJOR bumps. The foam will take up the slack on minor
-fairly large- bumps/imperfections. Unnoticeable...REALLY!
I have used both 3M high tack and rubber cement no failures/sagging yet.
Don't seek perfection on the glue removal, do as above and you will be satisfied-possible exception Arizona sHARKs- .
I sprayed half the insulation and underhood after sizing and pencil tracing beneath hood.
Taped the perimeter, befor spraying the underhood. Again caution on calm days and working indoors.
If you spray with hood on
cover the windshield/wiper valance to protect from overspray.
You can do it alone , but two people/4 hands is a better deal. Lined up with pencil outline and layed it on. Used 2 9 inch paint rollers with medium covers rolled real tight then sprayed remainig portion of hood and insulation. Repeat with rollers. Remove tape IMMEDIATELY !!!
If you use rubber cement do the underhood portion first, then insulation, apply
with a 4" roller and work fat. Hot dry day...work faster!
I did the roller job/rubber cement by myself, I cheated and did the entire under hood and only 1/2 of the insulation. rolled the lower half with the 9" roller then just rolled the rubber cement on the second half of insulation and smoothed it onto the already tacked hood.
You can do it in 10/15 minutes after pencil lines and taping.
Have fun.

 

Has anyone tried good old Weldwood yellow contact cement, the stuff you buy in pint ot quart cans? THis is the stuff used to apply Formica to cabinet tops, for instance. I use it for gluing carpet and other car interior tasks with no problems. The underside of a black hood on a hot AZ or SoCal day might be tougher duty.

 

It took some searching, but I finally found the 2nd posting of this trophy.

Nice work, I have a feeling that there is a certain car that will never win one of these.

 

. . .she comes up short in 'sheepskins' and 'blue nuts!' But she's 'frisky!'

 

That certain car could win if you can keep Justin away from the concours judges.

 

I personally think that stuff won't work. Even without engine heat, the metal of a hood would grab a fair amount of heat sitting in the sun in most places. The 3M "Super Duty" spray stuff is pretty cheap and available at most auto parts stores, I think. For a few cents more, it's probably a case of doing it only once vs. having to redo at some point using generic rubber cement.

 

Mine was a bit old too: