Shark Attack

I didn't see anyone metion this:
Make sure you have some emery paper. You want to take the gloss off the rotors before you install the new pads. this is a very important step in any pad change job on any car.

Mike Frye

I have to say I disagree with Ryan about compressing the piston with channel locks. I used to do that but it's too easy to mar the piston with the teeth (unless you use something like a sliver of wood or something in there, but it's not mentioned).

I got a brake piston compressor tool for like $8 at the local auto parts store. If you have to compress the piston (which is likely) you should use something that will provide steady force without marring the piston or caliper if possible, like a c-clamp or tool specifically designed for brakes.

+1 on the ease of replacement. I've done lots of brake jobs in many different cars and this is by far the easiest and simplest design I've ever seen.

FlyingDog

Brake pad change is simple. I had more trouble with the rears than the fronts because the retaining pins were rusted pretty solidly in place. Even with the extra application of the hammer, it was still easier than any other car I've done brakes on...

Rotors are another story. I needed liberal use/abuse of a bfh to remove the fronts. Rears fell right off.

SharkFan

I would have to say very easy and straight forward, until.......................


You end up like me and my newly aquired 83' that turned into a bleeder screw broken off inside the caliper and then realize that 1 of the rotor screws in both sides have been broken off inside. So, unless someone has a good cheap used caliper it looks like I have a some drill and tapping to do, 1 hour just turned into ?????


Beyond that very easy.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Hi Tim,
Changing the pads is not too bad. Probably a 2 on your scale. Changing the pads when they start to get thin, but before the brake pad warning light goes off is a good idea. When that light goes off it destroys the brake pad sensor. I found it is very difficult to get to the electrical connector to replace the sensor. If the sensor has not been activated, you can probably reuse it. Have a new one on hand anyway in case it has been jumpered or modified in some way. Use synthetic brake grease on the pins as Garth suggested. Hope that nothing is frozen or breaks off and you'll be fine.
Take care of yourself.

RyanPerrella

Garth,

DUH! Crap i didnt even see what model year his car was. I was just so happy to see this topic i had to chime in. Changing pads on all brembo 4 pot caliper equipped cars is so easy. I just had to express myself that it was such a snap to do these. A great design.

The floating calipers are i suspect a bit more work

85fortheDrive

Okay, so the front brake pads seem to be no problemo at the moment. I have a set of PBR front and back pads now from 928 Intl.

Just a question about third party products... I have repeatedly been told to use both CRC Brake Quiet and CRC Synthetic Brake and Caliper Grease. The first of these should be applied to the metal area between the pad and housing, right?

The grease should be spread on the area of the pad that will contact the rotor, right?

One? Both? Neither?

Thanks!

FlyingDog

928 brakes don't seem to squeal much compared to other cars.

First yes.

Second, only if you want to kill the driver.

StratfordShark

If you get the correct sized dampers for your year you won't need and anti-squeal grease.

Never apply any grease to the pad on the rotor side - grease only goes on metal backing plate. Essential that the pads and rotor are free of grease and oil. You should clean the pad if you've inadvertently touched it with oily hands, or just nominally clean but actually greasy fingers.

I have just installed PBR pads from 928 Intl too and been testing this weekend. Had read somewhere that a characteristic of these pads is that they don't bite on first application in the wet. However it's been torrential rain today and I'm just back from a classic cars event. Brakes have behaved perfectly including descent from a hill climb circuit!

Ed Hughes

Another thought here, is that you want to make sure you take a good look at your pistons and dust seals. They may, or may not be fine. Take a look at your rotors too-are they fairly smooth? What thickness are they?

I'm not one to take shortcuts on Porsche brakes-I changed all of these goodies out when I bought my car, to start with a good baseline of brake performance and condition. My car's PO had turned the rotors, which is a sin.

85fortheDrive

Well, this was indeed a modest project. Just thought I'd share a couple of tips and thanks.

TIPS:
1. There are some very tiny metal retaining clips that fit over the brake sensors. Take caution when pulling out the sensors; the little clips can stay imbedded in the brake pads (soon to be thrown out!} or spring away from the scene.

2. Place a catch basin just inside the front driver's side wheel. I found that when I pushed the hydraulic pistons back in (to make room for the thicker new pads) there was some spillage of brake fluid.

3. If you're dealing with an OB, plan to use some caliiper grease. I found the metal parts still sturdy, but in need of some lubing.

4. I went with PBR pads from 928 Intl. Prior to the replacement, me have velly squeaky brakes. All quiet now.

THANKS
Jim Bailey
Garth, Bill Ball, Matt, Ed, and StratfordShark


Peace,
Tim

StratfordShark

This is worrying - there should be no fluid leak. Was the leak coming from the brake hose, the joint to the brake pipe in the wheel arch, or the piston seal itself? Sounds stupid but are you sure it was brake fluid and not just some rainwater that had collected on caliper while they were exposed?

Or are you just saying the fluid was pushed out from the reservoir and ran down inside the wheel? You just need to pack some rages round the reservoir or suck out a little fluid prior to compressing caliper.

Slightly OT but when I did the job someone pointed out that it's best practice to isolate the caliper with a clamp and open bleeder when you compress the piston. Removes risk of spill at reservoir and of any crud being forced back into ABS pump.

Mrmerlin

when he compressed his calipers the fluid backed up in the resivour and spilled over, to limit this from happeneing try pressing the brake pedal a few times after replacing each set of pads this will put the fliud back into the caliper and leave room for the the next wheel/brake assy. Now is a good time to bleed the brakes with fresh pads