Fix your HVAC system
04-23-2008, 04:19 PM
#61
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today i testet the vac. looks like i got a leak on the orange and yellow line 
Yellow = recirc. (right ?)
Orange = center combo (what does that do ?)
But now my hot water valve is closing correct. i have put a pulg in the 2 lines.
What funconality do i lose now that the lines are non func ?
Mads
Yellow = recirc. (right ?)
Orange = center combo (what does that do ?)
But now my hot water valve is closing correct. i have put a pulg in the 2 lines.
What funconality do i lose now that the lines are non func ?
Mads
04-23-2008, 06:09 PM
#62
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Information on color of lines and function at http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc_act.html
Thanks to John Pirtle
Thanks to John Pirtle
05-15-2008, 05:20 PM
#63
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Ok, so I have the center console apart, found a bad vacuum diaphram and replaced it. I also found the rubber backbone that connects the solenoids to be split in many places. So, I replace it all and test:
Vacuum holds from inside the car to all lines, so I think I am all set, but if I connect to any of the solenoids and apply vacuum I can hear a hiss near the solenoids. This seems strange as each solenoid is its own circuit, right? Do they somehow open when they have no electrical power (as the battery is disconnected)? If not, then what am I missing??
Vacuum holds from inside the car to all lines, so I think I am all set, but if I connect to any of the solenoids and apply vacuum I can hear a hiss near the solenoids. This seems strange as each solenoid is its own circuit, right? Do they somehow open when they have no electrical power (as the battery is disconnected)? If not, then what am I missing??
05-15-2008, 05:50 PM
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Ok, so I have the center console apart, found a bad vacuum diaphram and replaced it. I also found the rubber backbone that connects the solenoids to be split in many places. So, I replace it all and test:
Vacuum holds from inside the car to all lines, so I think I am all set, but if I connect to any of the solenoids and apply vacuum I can hear a hiss near the solenoids. This seems strange as each solenoid is its own circuit, right? Do they somehow open when they have no electrical power (as the battery is disconnected)? If not, then what am I missing??
Vacuum holds from inside the car to all lines, so I think I am all set, but if I connect to any of the solenoids and apply vacuum I can hear a hiss near the solenoids. This seems strange as each solenoid is its own circuit, right? Do they somehow open when they have no electrical power (as the battery is disconnected)? If not, then what am I missing??
05-15-2008, 06:24 PM
#65
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But of course they must leak...
When not activated they have to bleed off vacuum from downstream of the solenoid valve side - else in a well sealed system once activated they'd stay on for ever...
you might want to test them with the 'manifold' inlet plugged and each activated as you test it - they should hold vacuum then.
Alan
When not activated they have to bleed off vacuum from downstream of the solenoid valve side - else in a well sealed system once activated they'd stay on for ever...
you might want to test them with the 'manifold' inlet plugged and each activated as you test it - they should hold vacuum then.
Alan
05-15-2008, 06:28 PM
#66
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But of course they must leak...
When not activated they have to bleed off vacuum from downstream of the solenoid valve side - else in a well sealed system once activated they'd stay on for ever...
you might want to test them with the 'manifold' inlet plugged and each activated as you test it - they should hold vacuum then.
Alan
When not activated they have to bleed off vacuum from downstream of the solenoid valve side - else in a well sealed system once activated they'd stay on for ever...
you might want to test them with the 'manifold' inlet plugged and each activated as you test it - they should hold vacuum then.
Alan
06-02-2008, 11:01 PM
#67
Gots to bring this one back up.
I changed out my outside temp sensor a couple of weeks ago, but noticed that the recirc flap kept closed and was getting outside air. Before I start the car, the flap is closed, and once I engage the A/C it goes to outside air mix. I do only get cold at the max cool setting, heat comes if I move the slider, and the recirc flap won't go to inside air only.
All of my actuators were replaced 2 years ago, and I know they all work now, so vac is great. All of those systems check out ok.
I just repulled the outside sensor to check the corrosion on the barrels and leads and sure enough, they are pretty bad. Now comes the bad part. The wires came out of the car side harness plug (a/b) and there is no green stripe on either of the yellow wires. I even cut the covering to see if there was some green further up the line and it was a no go.
I plugged it back in just to test it and am wondering what happens if I have the wires in the wrong holes. Easy fix I know, if they are.
Thoughts?
I changed out my outside temp sensor a couple of weeks ago, but noticed that the recirc flap kept closed and was getting outside air. Before I start the car, the flap is closed, and once I engage the A/C it goes to outside air mix. I do only get cold at the max cool setting, heat comes if I move the slider, and the recirc flap won't go to inside air only.
All of my actuators were replaced 2 years ago, and I know they all work now, so vac is great. All of those systems check out ok.
I just repulled the outside sensor to check the corrosion on the barrels and leads and sure enough, they are pretty bad. Now comes the bad part. The wires came out of the car side harness plug (a/b) and there is no green stripe on either of the yellow wires. I even cut the covering to see if there was some green further up the line and it was a no go.
I plugged it back in just to test it and am wondering what happens if I have the wires in the wrong holes. Easy fix I know, if they are.
Thoughts?
06-02-2008, 11:11 PM
#68
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Since the system is measuring resistance , I doubt that the pin connection is critical. I also had a wire pull out of the plug, and had to pull the pin out of the rubber and re-solder it, but since it was only one, I couldnt get it wrong.
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
06-22-2008, 09:32 PM
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Is the '91 headlight assembly different or am I just stupid? I have the headlight off but I can't seem to figure out how to get off the support bracket. Here's what I'm looking at...
06-22-2008, 10:19 PM
#72
06-23-2008, 09:44 AM
#73
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Manfred with the headlight off like you have it just lower the lights and you will now hove room to find the sensor wire harness no need to remove any more parts to have acess to the inner fender
06-23-2008, 04:14 PM
#75
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Thats how I did this the first time (via wheel liner). I read Stans method and i find that going through the headlight opening is much easier and much cleaner. Worth a try, maybe.