fabric

Yes, I know, I'm daft.

Cooling flaps have not worked since I've had the car, and are stuck fully open. Since most people say leave it, I have, but I'm not the kind of guy who likes to leave something not working that serves a function, and since I actually drive my car in the cold Chicago winters, having the cooling flaps close would server a purpose, and nobody else drives the car regularly so I'm not concerned about them sticking closed when hot because I'll know what to check and will pay attention to it overheating.

The WSM has a great troubleshooting guide, and it looks like i have two problems: 1. The motor is dead. I have battery voltage to the appropriate connectors next to the passenger seat, and I can hear the relay activate when I apply power. 2. The connection that supplies power from the controller to the motor for the fully closed position has no connectivity. The other 2 look fine. So if I put in a good motor, it will only go to 100% open and 30% open. Which really means it will probably be always open except when it should be at 30%.

1 is easy. I would like to apply 12v directly to the connections to verify, but I'm really not good with this sort of thing, so were can I get 12v power in the engine bay to jump the motor to fully verify? But then am I totally hosed on 2? While it would be nice to have working flaps, it's probably not worth re-running the portion of the wiring bundle, but perhaps there's some more checking I can do or a way to fix this that's not so invasive.

I've attached the relevant page. Any input is appreciated in my Quixotic quest.

Edit: the fuse is not blown, but it had the wrong one in their at some point, and there's a new Relay. So I'm strongly confident those are fine (I did attempt the quick fix when I first got the car, I suppose. ).

piccardo

Although I have no experience with this, 12volt should be easy.( Starter). I would start with the basics and go from there. Apply voltage to the motor first and verify It's toast then work up-stream.
My humble advice. I defer to the real experts here. I find the simplest (most obvious ) problem is usually the culprit. Probably a bad connection, fuse and so on.

Charley B

You have 12v available on the passenger fender at the blue plastic cover. About the size of a thimble. It's identified in your owners manual as a jump start terminal. Good luck

IcemanG17

Keep in mind the early 928's did not have this....& the 91's and newer didn't either.....so 13 of the 17 years they made 928's they did not have these flaps.....which really means they are not needed......granted I live in CA...but my motor is gone & the flaps are zip tied in the open position.... Save your time and money...just zip tie them open and your done....

ZEUS+

I live in NH and have no use for them either. If you do want to test them stick to the WSM procedure. This motor is controlled differently than regular motors. The motor itself can be good and have a defective internal control disc. Jumping power and ground to the motor itself does not test all circuits of the motor.

Jim M.

Have you checked the control unit? If my memory is correct it's under the cover on the passenger side next to the door.

Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd

ceedee

as i read this, i kept thinking, where these flaps could be on my car and 'i wonder if mine work'. i've never seen flaps on my car and i took it apart so quite some extend.
so, i take it, i don't have em.

fabric

Guys-

I've followed the steps in the page from the WSM already. Everything looks good from the controller side. I have continuity on 2 of 3 circuits. Motor doesn't move for any, but as I said, I can hear the relay switching when I activate all of them. Fuse and relay are new.