Mike Frye

Ok, so who better to explain to a beginner how to remove a clutch than another beginner, right?

Maybe not, but I had so many pics from my recent clutch removal that I've pulled them together into a one-page write-up and put it on my member website.

clutch removal for beginners

I know most of it is covered elsewhere, but there were a few things that were not explained or pictured, so I thought I'd pull it all together since I don't have anything to do until my parts get here later in the week.

Comments/additions/corrections requested.

I'm hoping to document the re-installation of the new parts and add that as a different write-up next week.

UKKid35

Great write up, thanks for taking the time to do that.

A couple of points:

I've never removed either of the sensors in the bellhousing, and this hasn't been an issue (step 1)
I've not had to move any of the locator pins, and this hasn't hindered removal (step 5)
I would be careful with the i-shaft, even if the pilot bearing is toast, it may well be useable and it's $$$

One thing that confounded me was that when re-using an old (thinner) friction plate you need much thicker spacers otherwise relocating the release arm is impossible. I didn't notice this when removing the release arm because the release bearing had already collapsed.

Mike Frye

Paul,
Thanks for the comments.

I was wondering about the sensors too. I think the only place I've seen it mentioned is in the WSMs, no one even mentions them in their write-ups. So has anyone ever found a reason to remove them or is it just something they thought would be good when an engine was on the bench, but isn't really required in the real world?

I'll add your comments about the i-shaft. That one I extrapolated from another write-up where the pilot was toast and so was the end of the i-shaft. (that's one place I got lucky!). I must be the only one who had to have to deal with the locator pins .

I think I need better pics for the first few and I may add arrows to point stuff out.

Thanks again.