928Myles

I measured the ruined boot on my (later) car and took those measurements to my local garage who sourced several 'universal' boots for me to try. I used the one that fit best (perfect fit BTW).

I would expect that there is a readily available universal boot that will fit.

Myles

The Deputy

Tool l used instead of pre-filling boot.

http://www.zoro.com/lincoln-needle-n...A&gclsrc=aw.ds

I removed tie-rod ends for easier access (plus, I was changing them anyway) and instead of pre-filling the ball-joint boot with grease prior to installation, I installed the boot first, then the larger retaining ring and filled the boot with grease with a needle nozzle type fitting that goes on the end of your grease gun. Filling the boot until it was plump, then installed the smaller ring. Reassembled and when I tighten everything up, the boot had a nice bulge to it, which in turn will help force grease into the joint over time. Pre-filling the boots would make "keeping them on the lip of the ball-joint" very difficult in my opinion. Especially the bottom one, where room is limited and it is a bit tighter fit.

Also worth mentioning...Andrew's (AO) trick/idea for turning the boot inside out works well when installing a belt. If you have a belt that just seems a little to tight or short, roll it inside out and it usually slips right on. The outside circumference is larger than the inside. Anyone that has ever changed a waterpump belt on a Cat C7 either knows this trick or goes to the insane asylums prematurely...lol. But, the method works well on other applications.

A "while you are in there" situation occurred. Inner tie-rod boots (or power steering rack boots, whichever you prefer to call them) were dryrooted also and if you have the outer tie-rod off...it is an excellent time to address this issue.

The tool mentioned was also used to refill the CV Joint boots on the drive axles. Just remove the small metal retaining clip from the boot, pump about a half a tube into the boot, reinstall clip, done.

Brian.

The Deputy

The only issue I had with sourcing boots from a parts store was...they were made in China and they only lasted a year on a previous side-job I had done for a custumer. The rubber quality of the boots from 928 International and Pelican seems much better. Only time will tell if they last or not...but like I say...the rubber seemed much more pliable.

Maybe Andrew will chime back in with his observations (or someone could PM him)...since he did this job a few years ago.

Brian.

Adk46

I tried to order a lower boot from Roger a few months ago - still NLA.

The Deputy

I used the upper on the lower...worked fine.

Brian.

AO

Wow... kewl thread. Hard to believe it was so long ago.

PelicanParts.com

We might have something here for you. If not, you can give us a call and someone should be able to source a part and help you over the phone.

-Luccia

jej3

I replaced an Upper A Arm Ball Joint Boot following the guidance... Thanks, Andrew!

As an aside, I did a couple of extra things....

1. Used a BFH on the carrier (not the ball joint) and that broke the ball joint loose without any other tool.

2. I applied much grease in the boot and to the ball joint. I then put the retaining rings on the boot (both upper and lower ring) and slide it up onto the ball joint. That was way faster than the 30 minutes I spent messing around and the upper ring went into the groove with no problems.

Good Luck to the next person

Mark Anderson

We now stock the lower boots as does Roger. We had them made by the people that rebuild our arms in Europe

Mark Anderson

here's a link
http://shop.928intl.com/Lower-Ball-J...431-407-377-B/