Removal of a sheared bleed nipple
03-28-2007, 06:40 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Here’s something that I thought might work. Pull the calliper off the rotor but keep the break line attached. Then turn the calliper around until the good bleeder screw is facing up (highest point). After this, take something solid, about the thickness of the rear roto,r and place it between the pads, while the bleeder screw still facing up. Now either use a vacuum pump or have someone sit in the car to bleed that calliper. In theory I think this would work and get whatever air you have trapped out of that calliper. Then when its all done just bolt the calliper back onto the rotor.
03-28-2007, 08:08 PM
#17
Chronic Tool Dropper
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This will work for most street-driven cars that have the fluid changed only once every two years. MK is on a 60-180 day (depends on time of year and number of races) fluid change schedule or should be, so doing caliper gymnastics may not be the best long-term solution. He has a one-man show with no pit crew, so trying to do an emergency bleed between sessions would be almost impossible. First time that didn't happen because you did the bleeder-valve-ectomy at home in the relative comfort of your garage, you'd save back all the time previously spent x100. You might get an early start home, but on the trailer instead of drive to/from as Mark is known to do.
Leaving a potentially show-stopping bomb there wating to go off is very close to he height of foolishness. I know Mark is a very frugal racer, but even he underrstands the wisdom of changing into a new bleeder nipple at home while it's convenient.
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Spray PB pllaster or Kroil or your favorite penetrating fluid into the open end of the bleeder valve, and let it work there for a day or two. Do it a few times to have the best chance of the stuff opening the corrosion from the seat area.
The hole in the bleeder is a great path for moisture ingestion if you happen to drive around without the rubber boots on the ends of all the bleeder valves. A little moisture, two different metals, add heat and time, shake well... voila! It's stuck! So make sure all your bleeder caps are intact and installed correctly. Replace those that are missing, cracked or torn. It's easy PM every time you do a flush/bleed, and that should be no less than once every one to two years depending on climate.
Leaving a potentially show-stopping bomb there wating to go off is very close to he height of foolishness. I know Mark is a very frugal racer, but even he underrstands the wisdom of changing into a new bleeder nipple at home while it's convenient.
------
Spray PB pllaster or Kroil or your favorite penetrating fluid into the open end of the bleeder valve, and let it work there for a day or two. Do it a few times to have the best chance of the stuff opening the corrosion from the seat area.
The hole in the bleeder is a great path for moisture ingestion if you happen to drive around without the rubber boots on the ends of all the bleeder valves. A little moisture, two different metals, add heat and time, shake well... voila! It's stuck! So make sure all your bleeder caps are intact and installed correctly. Replace those that are missing, cracked or torn. It's easy PM every time you do a flush/bleed, and that should be no less than once every one to two years depending on climate.
03-28-2007, 08:12 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by ZEUS+
...... Worst case you can use a bleeder repair kit.http://www.ctatools.com/catalogs/brake.pdf
