H2

The forward of the 3 seat switches on my '88S4 is broken so I ordered a new switch. Puzzler:

All three original seat switches in the '88 are same number 928.613.201.00

The new replacement switch is PET number 928.613.182.00

Both variations have what appears to be the same wiring schematic stamped on the top. However, the old switch only has 5 posts soldered and one open while the new switch has all 6 posts soldered 2/wires. Also, the new switch has heavier wiring of differing colors.

I was planning on just resoldering the new switch head to the original wiring pigtail to keep from removing the seat. However, with the 5 wire/6 wire/different color combination, I'm at a loss as how to proceed. Anyone been here? How did you resolve it? If the switch config and contacts essentially are the same, you'd think I could just solder the 5 up and leave the 6th post unused?

Seeing as how these switches are pushing a $100 each, I hate to smoke it.

In the fotos, the new switch is on the left and the old one on the right.

What's your knowlege of how I best proceed? RE: Electrical, I'm mostly a plug and play guy. I don't read schematics well.

Thanks in advance,

Harvey

H2

It sure looks to me like I could just solder them leads on the same places on the new switch...skip the unused one...and be OK. What's the risk is I'm wrong?

Harvey

Imo000

Besides the part numbers and the different coloured wired, they both looks the same to me. The back is the same and so are the schematics. If it was me, I would simple solder the existing wires from your old switch to the new one. Looks like the new switch part number might be some sort of a revision to the old one.

I hope this helps!

Alan

Pin 1 is the Normally Closed (NC) common contact and Pin 2 is the Normally Open (NO) common contact for all switches. The switch is the same in each case. The switch 928.613.182.00 (what you called new) is for the non-memory seat - where the seat motors are driven directly by the switch (hence heavy duty wiring) while the seat memory controller uses switch 928.613.201.00 (as on your car) it only uses half of each switch (the NO contact side) since the seat motors are actually driven by relays in the underseat controller.

The only difference is the wiring - if you adapt it to match - it will be fine.

Alan

H2

ImoOO,

Thanks for your reply. It certainly looks obvious to interchange but the diff. number wires does pose a question. Maybe the 6th wire has a new function in newer cars? I've searched and googled this thing and have had no luck. I think someoone who knows relays and what the diagrams mean have an idea right away.

Thanks for your reply...either it's a really simple question not worth responding to, people don't really know the answer and my experimentation on this will be helpful to the Rennlist group as a whole, or people are out working on their own cars. I wish I understood electrics better. I must not be doing the Rennlist search right because it seems quite clunky.

I've never pulled a seat before so that may be simplest. But I hate opening up cans of worms that may be ready to take fishing as is.

Harvey

Mike Frye

Harvey,

Looks like your answer beat you by a few minutes. Just wanted to bump this in case you were waiting for someone else to respond. Alan seems pretty sure and agrees with Imo.


Looking at the diagram and from what little I know of relays and electical parts, I agree FWIW. Many times a new part will be set up with a 'worst case scenario' meaning they put the heaviest gauge wire and most leads you'll need, then they won't have to carry more than one part and the user won't have to solder to the relay directly, just cut back the unused parts.

H2

Alan,

My car has seat memory...so do you think that seat memory would still work? Offhand, I'd guess so since not much should vary by just replacing wires as they were before but I may be wrong?

Thanks for responding,

Harvey

Alan

Harvey,
Yes - read what I said - its not old and new its mem & non-mem. You have mem seats which only require 5 wires (4 to switches & 1 common), non-mem required 6 wires (4 to switches & 2 common) and heaver duty wires - the switch in either case is exactly the same and the wiring is just a superset for the 6 wires - the connectors may be different - I'm not sure. If needed you can adapt the wiring to match your connector and it will be fine... maybe you don't need to do anything if the connector fits - since the extra wire won't connect to anything. You memory seats will still work correctly.

Alan

H2

Thanks, Alan. Just what I needed to know. It looks like it will just slip right in once I change over the wires. I've never pulled a seat and didn't want to do that if I don't have to.

Gracias, amigo,

Harrvey

Alan

Harvey,
Pulling the seat out isn't hard (as long as the bolts aren't seized) - these days only takes me 10 minutes out & 10 minutes in. It may make the whole thing much easier... if so go for it.

6 allen head bolts (or maybe only 4) and 1 single seat connector to unplug

Just get a good quality correctly sized metric allen socket drive.

Alan

OTOH - if the bolts are siezed plan for 6 hours instead...! BTDT too!