Changed brake fluid - air in the lines?
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Bend, OR
Originally Posted by dr bob
Ed-- Got tired of cleaning the power bleeder? Huh? What's to clean? Dump any remaining fluid out with your old stuff, close the tank and put the thing away. It's cleaned. One of many 'last things' you want to have in the tank is water, so there's not a lot of cleaning to do really. I pour a little fresh fluid in it before each use, slosh it around in the tank and pour it out before filling the tank with new fluid at the next use. The toughest part of putting the bleeder stuff away is storing the little hoses and the adapter cap in a ziplock bag and putting it all in the box on the shelf.
In my opinion, the power bleeder kicks butt over the manual press-and-squirt method. Over the years, I have managed to accidentally pump the reservoir dry a few times using the manual method. It takes two people, and you have to train your pusher to stop a little off the floor and acll out the pedal positions so you know when and which way to turn the bleeder screws. Contrast with the power bleeder: One person, set it up on the MC, then just walk around from wheel to wheel, opening the valve until fluid flows clear then closing. It just couldn't be much easier.
In my opinion, the power bleeder kicks butt over the manual press-and-squirt method. Over the years, I have managed to accidentally pump the reservoir dry a few times using the manual method. It takes two people, and you have to train your pusher to stop a little off the floor and acll out the pedal positions so you know when and which way to turn the bleeder screws. Contrast with the power bleeder: One person, set it up on the MC, then just walk around from wheel to wheel, opening the valve until fluid flows clear then closing. It just couldn't be much easier.
The speed bleeders are a one person process, and IMO do a great job of bleeding. Again, I must emphasize that I keep a watchful eye on the M/C reservoir to avoid running dry and sucking air.
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From: Florida
OK, I think I figured it out. The pads are not fully seated yet. They ride on the inner and outer lip of the rotors. So they get pushed back a bit during driving. These rotors had Hawk street plus pads on it before and the Pagid greys must be a bit larger. I am sure they will seat fine after a couple of high speed brakes. Man do these things bite.
In regards to the pressure bleeder, I think it is a great tool. The reason why I used it to drain the reservoir was so only a small amount of the old fluid would mix with the new fluid. But I normally syphone it out of the reservoir rather then using the empty speed bleeder to push it out. The reservoir was not completely empty and air started to come out the rear line I was bleeding. So I won't be trying that shortcut again. There is no issue with the speed bleeder and fluid levels. If the reservoir is at the full mark, the pressure bleeder will keep it that way, since all pressures equalize. There is no need to prefilling the hose going to the reservoir.
My pressure bleeder manual asks for cleaning with denatured alcohol and that works really well. No need to go in there with a rag or paper towel and contaminate it.
Thanks,
In regards to the pressure bleeder, I think it is a great tool. The reason why I used it to drain the reservoir was so only a small amount of the old fluid would mix with the new fluid. But I normally syphone it out of the reservoir rather then using the empty speed bleeder to push it out. The reservoir was not completely empty and air started to come out the rear line I was bleeding. So I won't be trying that shortcut again. There is no issue with the speed bleeder and fluid levels. If the reservoir is at the full mark, the pressure bleeder will keep it that way, since all pressures equalize. There is no need to prefilling the hose going to the reservoir.
My pressure bleeder manual asks for cleaning with denatured alcohol and that works really well. No need to go in there with a rag or paper towel and contaminate it.
Thanks,
