I don't know why everyone has such an issue. I took the 3 screws out, moved the fan out of the way and just went to town. Kept my hood on, didn't remove anything except the cowl cover (plastic).

That motor moves around real nice when it is detached.

Oh, watch for falling debris when you get it out. And check the corners in that area. Leaves and gunk get caught up in there and that is the main reason water ends up on our circuit panels. Clean it up good....another thing I didn't do and only saw that **** up there after I looked at the pictures I posted here, when the job was done.

 

Thanks Sean, glad to see someone else is up burning the midnight oil. I will fool around with the blower and just push that damn recirc box out!

 

SON OF A B!TCH!

Damn Sean, I spend all of 10 seconds to get the blower motor out (helps to loosen the cowl panel by removing wipers and pulling 2 fender bolts) but sure enough the blower comes out easily enough. Then i just put a little pressure on the top of the box and now it popped the seal and already dropped! DAMN!

THANKS SEAN! The recirc box IS OUT!

(look at the time between my post above and this one to see how long it takes!)

CRAP! now i noticed a little coolant residue around the tank and am wondering if its sprung a leak! CRAPOLA, NOT THAT THING, and to think of all the time i could have replaced it when the engine was out......twice!

UPDATE: I pulled the box out and then opened up the flap and plugged the hole with my thumb and..... it stays closed! So i guess that actuator works fine. But i will check the line that goes to it. I think it goes from the brake booster to the actuator so i will check it out and see if there is a leak in the line, because apparently the old one held vacumn according to my little test.

Q: How do you pull the diaphrahm out of this actuator? its a bit odd looking and not like the others.

 

LMAO, I can't tell you how many times I've dicked with something and then had someone tell me how easy it is, then whammooo. 2 hours wasted because I'm stupid.

 

The first 2 pictures show the cut out where the filter slides in on the later model yrs 94-95 The others show how I did cut the box in order to place new foam seals on both sidea of the recirculating flapper valve. The cut section was replaced and held in place with a few metal strip and rivets and than sealed with JB weld. If there would be any future service need the flapper can be removed and replaced again.

94 GTS 5 spd

 

if your removing the blower box.. You DONT have to do anything with the blower motor except remove the 3 screws holding it. There are 2 on top, one at the RF corner and one in the airduct, then there is a long one inside from under the blower box . The blower motor just sits there waiting for you to reinstall the bottom,

Before you remove the blower box bottom place a towel on the CE panel (that you had to flip over to remove the CE support brackets) This will keep most if not all of the debris from falling into the back of the CE panel and then you can still clean out the well with your hands and a small vacuum. I suggest to use some 3M strip caulk to reseal the blower box, no neeed to remove whats already there just add another strip , unless the old stuff looks really dried out.

To remove the vacuum pot there is a clip on the metal rod to vacuum pot, simply undo this and the vacuum pot comes free , of course you need to remove the vac pot from the blower box by releasing the 4 plastic clips that hold it to the box first.

 

Ok so i figured out how to get the clip off the recirc flap itself.

A couple things i noticed while doing this is that i would suggest reassembling the actuator before installing it on the duct itself. It was difficult to get the larger bladder fully around the cup and if its not correctly done then the whole job is pointless. Ideally you should be able to fit the diaphram with the spring into the top part of the housing and plug the small hole and the bladder should keep the whole thing from springing out. On the smaller ones for the footwell it seems to be easier to do this, but this larger recirc seems to be much easier to reinstall incorrectly where you wont have any vacumn at all.

I am going to head to an O'reilly's to try and find some strip caulk and fins a rubber grommet or plug so i can drill into the dash box to reattach the comb flap lever.

 

Home Depot for the plug, take your drill bit with you to match the correct size and a body shop supply store for the 3M strip caulk its about 15 bux, but you can reseal 10 of your friends blower boxes.
Your right about assembling the vacuum pot away from the box, it seems easier of there is some pressure applied to the pushrod inwards toward the spring to lift the diaphram onto the sealing ridge of the top portion of the housing before its clamped together

 

I got the thing installed and i made sure to reattach the vacumn hose to the actuator and then got it all bolted in nicely. Then i realized that the vacumn hose hadnt gone through the small hole! So being the perfectionist i am i pulled it off, unscrewed the 8 nuts and dropped it and am reinstalling a second time! DAMN!

I did clean the fan speed resistor though. Mine had a cage around it and looked similiar but slightly different from the one that john pitrtle shows on his site. I wonder if mine is the newer type, but thats now reinstalled as well.

Now i just need to bring myself to drilling this damn hole for the comb flap! eeeehhhhhhhh i dont want to!

Oh and i couldnt find any 3M strip caulk, but i did find this grey "rope caulk" at home depot and used an added layer around the flange surface of the box to seal it up. Any reason this rope caulk shouldnt be used? Tell me now before i put it back in. I know its not the 3M stuff but i dont know where i could get that stuff locally.

 

My .02 on moving the fuse panel assembly with all the grounding attached to it. I didn't have to do that. If you unbolt the lower wooden foot panel you will expose the lower bolts for the vertical brackets that hold the fuse panel. Remove them and the top two bolts attached to the recirc box and the whole assembly will slide down and forward. No need to mess with any of the bolts behind and no need to unbolt all the grounding wires. Hope she's going back together well Ryan.
BG.

 

I also didnt need to move the CE panel. The only thing i had to remove was the 2 bolts with a bunch of grounding wires which is directly below the rear mounting bar. It had to be removed to drop that metal plate.