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While I'm in Theres (engine removal - RV)

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Old 02-12-2007, 12:10 PM
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LndShrk
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Default While I'm in Theres (engine removal - RV)

Since I'm new here I'll start by introducting myself again. My name is Tony and I have a 83' US "S" A/T. Its got 130K and needs a lot of work. I should also point out that I am 18 and work a part time job.

That being said I plan to pull my engine in the summer while I'm out of school. I'm saving right now and I am wondering what I should replace while I'm in there. I already plan on replacing the motor mounts, oil pan gasket(bad leak), and probably most of the other gaskets. I'm also planning TB/WP change but should I wait unit the engine is out? Thanks for the help.

Last edited by Randy V; 02-12-2007 at 01:45 PM.
Old 02-12-2007, 12:21 PM
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byrdman454
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You can do all of that stuff without removing the engine. If the engine itself does not need rebuilding, I would not pull it. The MM, oil pan gasket, can be done from underneath by supporting the engine from above.

Do a search on MMs and pan gasket. The Posche MMs are insanely expensive and most are using the Anchor mounts from a Ford. Roger has some nice ones for sale too. The stock oil pan gasket is the cork crap, you should probably use the silicone type made by Real gasket. I think 928 Specialists has those.
Old 02-12-2007, 12:25 PM
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danglerb
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I have an 83 5 spd with 145k miles, and same basic plan only sooner if I can, and I can barely remember 18.

Essentially now is a good time to consider replacing everything, but when doing the budget work from hardest to replace with the motor in, and cheap items, with absolutely anything expensive that could be done with the motor in delayed if anything needs to wait on money.

Every bit of hoses and rubber. So far a lot of my wiring has very brittle insulation from the heat under the hood. All the plastic reservoirs, coolant, etc. Rebuild the PS rack, new shocks, ball joints, tie rods, etc. Motor mounts and pan gasket get from Rog100, do serious shopping and talking here on the rest, prices vary.

Ah, and you must post pictures of the car, and talk to the members in your area.
Old 02-12-2007, 12:40 PM
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heinrich
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Do not pull your engine out unless you are a VERY skilled mechanic with about $2,000 to spare for parts.
Old 02-12-2007, 01:43 PM
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Mike Frye
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Hey Tony,

I'm gonna run with the crowd on this one. You can do almost anything on that engine without having to pull the engine, and it doesn't sound like anything you're planning requires it. I know you're probably hoping to really clean it up nice and detail it, but I don't think that's a good reason to pull it it and you'd be rolling the dice on a lot of things going perfectly in order to get it all back in and and working.

It sounds like you're on a shoe string budget, which is fine, but it doesn't allow for any 'surprises'. I would just plan on using an engine hoist or one of the brace techniques you'll find on here for lifting it up, do what you need to do, then drop it back in place. This way you can do the bottom in one shot, then drive it a bit, and do the top end in another shot, and the suspension/steering in another round.

It also helps (for me at least) to bite off smaller chunks rather than doing this massive job all at once.
Old 02-12-2007, 01:46 PM
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blown 87
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Do not pull your engine out unless you are a VERY skilled mechanic with about $2,000 to spare for parts.
Now you tell me that H.
Old 02-12-2007, 02:05 PM
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LndShrk
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Thanks for all your suggestions. I was looking at 928 motorsports motor mounts, but no one seems to mention them. Does anyone here recomend/ have them. Someone mentioned ball-joints, but I was under the impression that only the earilest models had the dangerous aluminum kind.

For the timing belt and water pump I was wondering how crutial it was to replace the tensioner, rollers, and cam gears. If it is crutial I spend the dough for them if not I'd rather use the $ to fix other things.

I was also wondering how hard it is to fit the MSDS headers in with the engine out. I would really like to have a set of them in before I'm off to college. I'll be making alot more money in the summer because I'll be working full time, but I am torn on whether to spend it on the shark or save it up. My plan is to go at it little by little while I'm in college, and once I get settled after college the fun will begin . I wanted to pull the engine and do as much as possible this summer, because I know I won't have a lot of time for it in college.

I'll try to get some pictures , but I'm unsure on how to post them.
Old 02-12-2007, 02:13 PM
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danglerb
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Top right hand of screen "upload photos", make sure to name them something with your name to make it unique, and remember to copy the link it gives you after uploading.

Heads after water pump.

All that stuff, short answer is start by reading the Pirtle guide linked to various threads about TB and WP.

Best thing on all this stuff, run it past the forum for comments before spending money.
Old 02-12-2007, 02:59 PM
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LndShrk
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Bad news. I won't be uploading any pictures for a while because it seems the family digital camera is broken. I'm thinking of picking up a disposable one, but that could take me a day or two.

Quick question. I have a problem where when the trans is cold the engine "chugs" to find the next gear. My assumption is that the trans is trying to build more pressure to switchgears. I think that dirty ATF os the cause of my pressure issue. Is this assumption correct?
Old 02-12-2007, 04:23 PM
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danglerb
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I can't speak to AT issues, but my first act was a trip to Walmart and PepBoys for all new premium fluids, and a call to 928Intl for all new filters.

Something shiftless AT guys like to look at is the mess of cables and rods around the throttle, one is important to shifting.

Have you ordered the WSM from Jim Morehouse yet?
Old 02-12-2007, 04:40 PM
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LndShrk
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To tell the truth I don't know what WSM is. I think the best move is to change the fluid and see what happens.
Old 02-12-2007, 04:45 PM
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danglerb
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Must read first forum sticky for newbies with acronyms.

WSM is the workshop manuals, a 9 volume set mechanics need, all on one handy CD from Jim.



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