Don't remove the ignition amps...
#16
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
From Big Dave's book of auto repair:
If it's not broken - fix it until it is!
If it's not broken - fix it until it is!
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#17
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NAPA quoted me $150/ea. for the Bosch! ![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
I was surprised that the LIAPS had a better retail price than my friends shop price, for the same item, from the same wholesaler. (32 vs. 38)
![](https://members.rennlist.com/porken/IgnitionAmps.jpg)
Hüco (Hueco)# 13 8012
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
I was surprised that the LIAPS had a better retail price than my friends shop price, for the same item, from the same wholesaler. (32 vs. 38)
![](https://members.rennlist.com/porken/IgnitionAmps.jpg)
Hüco (Hueco)# 13 8012
#19
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Originally Posted by PorKen
NAPA quoted me $150/ea. for the Bosch! ![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
I was surprised that the LIAPS had a better retail price than my friends shop price, for the same item, from the same wholesaler. (32 vs. 38)
![](https://members.rennlist.com/porken/IgnitionAmps.jpg)
Hüco (Hueco)# 13 8012
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
I was surprised that the LIAPS had a better retail price than my friends shop price, for the same item, from the same wholesaler. (32 vs. 38)
![](https://members.rennlist.com/porken/IgnitionAmps.jpg)
Hüco (Hueco)# 13 8012
#20
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How did the Hüco's work out? I just had one die on my S4 but when searching Rennlist for "Huco" some of the 944 guys had problems with them. I ended up buying a $50 Bosch used one at 928Intl.
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Originally Posted by Larry Velk
I can't believe our units get that hot based on where they are. Heat must be internal. On the Fords I don't know which way they expected the heat to flow - the engine had to be hotter than the chips -
Some interested party could probably google up the specs for them.
#22
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Man, don't fix what ain't broked.
It's running, but now it surges when the idle changes. Putting it into gear, or coming to a stop as it shifts 2-1. It was so nice, before I messed w/it.
I'm not sure now if it's the Huco cheapies, or the reference sensor which I took out to see it it had collected any metal shavings (hadn't), and put back. It did take some doing to get it out though.
It's running, but now it surges when the idle changes. Putting it into gear, or coming to a stop as it shifts 2-1. It was so nice, before I messed w/it.
I'm not sure now if it's the Huco cheapies, or the reference sensor which I took out to see it it had collected any metal shavings (hadn't), and put back. It did take some doing to get it out though.
Originally Posted by jcb928
How did the Hüco's work out? I just had one die on my S4 but when searching Rennlist for "Huco" some of the 944 guys had problems with them. I ended up buying a $50 Bosch used one at 928Intl.
#24
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Still bad running. I want to replace the reference sensor, anyway, so I'm going to replace that first. I'm afraid it may be the cheap amps, though. If the sensor doesn't fix it, then I'm getting Bosch amps.
BTW: I hope I'm not stepping on any sponsor toes, but I ordered from a 'closeout' on eBay, $50 + shipping ($9.20 for me). No affiliation, blah, blah. There were (14) left when I checked out.
(eBay sensor)
BTW: I hope I'm not stepping on any sponsor toes, but I ordered from a 'closeout' on eBay, $50 + shipping ($9.20 for me). No affiliation, blah, blah. There were (14) left when I checked out.
(eBay sensor)
#26
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
From Big Dave's book of auto repair:
If it's not broken - fix it until it is!
If it's not broken - fix it until it is!
Originally Posted by Larry Velk
Big recall on Fords for failure of the ignition module on the distributor.
We learned later that the hot ticket was to ensure the mounting surface was roughed up. The aluminum oxidizes quickly, and the oxidation itself is a big barrier to the thermal transfer. So, I'd the technique was to sand the surface with heavy grit paper, spread an even layer of the grease, then bolt down the module. Dielectric will stop the future oxidation because it is a barrier itself. HTH...
Michael
#27
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Bumping this to give a little bit of knowledge from the PC gaming world (my day job) where we dump 250w out of high end video cards via a very small interface to the heatsink.
If you redo this, get Arctic Silver 5. Its the best, reasonably priced compound and in my years of use in high heat video cards its never gone hard on me. These cards see a lot of heat cycles to 85C or more. This stuff should not glue everything together even after years of use. A 3.5g tube is plenty.
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver...rctic+silver+5
If you redo this, get Arctic Silver 5. Its the best, reasonably priced compound and in my years of use in high heat video cards its never gone hard on me. These cards see a lot of heat cycles to 85C or more. This stuff should not glue everything together even after years of use. A 3.5g tube is plenty.
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver...rctic+silver+5
#28
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Bumping this to give a little bit of knowledge from the PC gaming world (my day job) where we dump 250w out of high end video cards via a very small interface to the heatsink.
If you redo this, get Arctic Silver 5. Its the best, reasonably priced compound and in my years of use in high heat video cards its never gone hard on me. These cards see a lot of heat cycles to 85C or more. This stuff should not glue everything together even after years of use. A 3.5g tube is plenty.
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver...rctic+silver+5
If you redo this, get Arctic Silver 5. Its the best, reasonably priced compound and in my years of use in high heat video cards its never gone hard on me. These cards see a lot of heat cycles to 85C or more. This stuff should not glue everything together even after years of use. A 3.5g tube is plenty.
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver...rctic+silver+5
#29
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My GTX 690 has a tdp of 300 watts and can get pretty toasty if the fan isn't cranked. It will sit at 70C+ pretty comfortably along with my processor, both using Arctic 5.
The -C numbers are common too as some competitive overclockers use liquid nitrogen to cool their CPU and GPUs along with some users using phase change cooling (imagine a AC evaporator as a metal plate mounted flush to your CPU).
Anyway, this isn't a PC forum, but there shouldn't be any issues with CPU thermal compound so long as you replace it every 3 years or so to keep it fresh.
#30
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Note for posterity on this 9 year old thread - the problem (would not rev over 3000 rpm and a bad idle) turned out to be running non-resistor plugs (moar spark bro) with Hüco (Hueco) amps.
Bosch amps, which have a steel heat sink/back plate, apparently handle noise better than the Hüco which have aluminum heat sinks.
Bosch amps, which have a steel heat sink/back plate, apparently handle noise better than the Hüco which have aluminum heat sinks.