Big Dave

I actually got that quote from a local politician describing her take on our city counsel. It's something to remember each time you ask yourself....do I really want to pull that apart?

PorKen

NAPA quoted me $150/ea. for the Bosch!

I was surprised that the LIAPS had a better retail price than my friends shop price, for the same item, from the same wholesaler. (32 vs. 38)


Hüco (Hueco)# 13 8012

Shark Attack

this is the second time i have heard about this happening

Louie928

Halsey is a good place to get 928 stuff in the Portland, OR, area. Also try Sunset Porsche/Audi in Beaverton. The have surprisingly good prices sometimes even though a bona fide P car dealer.

jcb928

How did the Hüco's work out? I just had one die on my S4 but when searching Rennlist for "Huco" some of the 944 guys had problems with them. I ended up buying a $50 Bosch used one at 928Intl.

worf928

The heat is internally generated by the chips. They are MOSFET power amplifiers. They get pretty darn hot. That's why they need that big heat sink block and the paste. Without the heat sink they'd probably fry in a few hours.

Some interested party could probably google up the specs for them.

PorKen

Man, don't fix what ain't broked.

It's running, but now it surges when the idle changes. Putting it into gear, or coming to a stop as it shifts 2-1. It was so nice, before I messed w/it.

I'm not sure now if it's the Huco cheapies, or the reference sensor which I took out to see it it had collected any metal shavings (hadn't), and put back. It did take some doing to get it out though.

danglerb

Worldpac I found, Sunset I know about, what are these other places Halsey, SAVE, etc.?

PorKen

Still bad running. I want to replace the reference sensor, anyway, so I'm going to replace that first. I'm afraid it may be the cheap amps, though. If the sensor doesn't fix it, then I'm getting Bosch amps.

BTW: I hope I'm not stepping on any sponsor toes, but I ordered from a 'closeout' on eBay, $50 + shipping ($9.20 for me). No affiliation, blah, blah. There were (14) left when I checked out.

(eBay sensor)

Imo000

Porken,

I have a pir left from the parts car (86.5). If interested send me a PM.

Bus

I learned long ago, as an Engineer... the motto is; "If it ain't broke, it don't have enough features!"


I sold auto parts for a while many, many years ago... and those ignition modules were hot sellers! They were on everything from trucks, to mustangs, to Escorts.... They were mounted inside the distributor and bolted to the aluminum distributor housing with two bolts. The package included a small tube of dielectric grease.

We learned later that the hot ticket was to ensure the mounting surface was roughed up. The aluminum oxidizes quickly, and the oxidation itself is a big barrier to the thermal transfer. So, I'd the technique was to sand the surface with heavy grit paper, spread an even layer of the grease, then bolt down the module. Dielectric will stop the future oxidation because it is a barrier itself. HTH...

Michael

Arominus

Bumping this to give a little bit of knowledge from the PC gaming world (my day job) where we dump 250w out of high end video cards via a very small interface to the heatsink.

If you redo this, get Arctic Silver 5. Its the best, reasonably priced compound and in my years of use in high heat video cards its never gone hard on me. These cards see a lot of heat cycles to 85C or more. This stuff should not glue everything together even after years of use. A 3.5g tube is plenty.

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver...rctic+silver+5

Imo000

How do they stand up to fluctuations between -30C and +100C temperatures.

The Forgotten On

90C is a pretty common number to hit with thermal compound for PCs, at least with video cards and some AMD chips (looking at you 9590).

My GTX 690 has a tdp of 300 watts and can get pretty toasty if the fan isn't cranked. It will sit at 70C+ pretty comfortably along with my processor, both using Arctic 5.

The -C numbers are common too as some competitive overclockers use liquid nitrogen to cool their CPU and GPUs along with some users using phase change cooling (imagine a AC evaporator as a metal plate mounted flush to your CPU).

Anyway, this isn't a PC forum, but there shouldn't be any issues with CPU thermal compound so long as you replace it every 3 years or so to keep it fresh.

PorKen

Note for posterity on this 9 year old thread - the problem (would not rev over 3000 rpm and a bad idle) turned out to be running non-resistor plugs (moar spark bro) with Hüco (Hueco) amps.

Bosch amps, which have a steel heat sink/back plate, apparently handle noise better than the Hüco which have aluminum heat sinks.