leperboy

My everlasting timing belt job is nearly done, however, somehow I screwed up along the way. Rather than re-install the flywheel lock to take the crank bolt off, I figured I would just put the car in fifth with the brake on. I noticed, though, that at some point my clutch pedal got pressed while the slave was out. I have no idea when, but it did and was down to the floor. I know that after removing the slave and reconnecting the oil line to it, the connection leaked slightly while it sat.

I raised the pedal by hand and pressed it down again. It feels like there is no hydraulic pressure.

Do I need to bleed the clutch, or what is the process to get hydraulic pressure back in the clutch?

Thanks,
Matt

ZEUS+

Try gravity bleeding first. Open bleeder with pedal up. Keep an eye on fluid level. Let it drip for a minute or two. Check pedal, hopefully it came back. Also, sometimes a hydraulic clutch has to be pumped rapidly to restore pressure after bleeding.

Mrmerlin

Hi the quickest way to get pressure is to use a oil pump can and fill it with brake fluid back fill the system from the slave get a helper to see that you dont over fill the resivour slowly pump fluid into the slve till the bubbles stop coming out the resivour tank then bleed it it should work well , the other way is to pressurise the brake fluid resivour and use about 14 PSI then open bleeder and let it run out for about 2 seconds then close bleeder , if you leave the bleeder open more than that the resivour will be drained before it can refill from the brake resivour side

Mike Frye

Hey Matt,

Did you say that you disconnected the slave from the hydraulic line? What did you use to keep the fluid from draining out?

When I did mine, I was able to just move the slave aside to put the flywheel lock in. It looks like your only option is to bleed it out. Shouldn't be too bad though. Hang in there, you're almost home.

leperboy

I had to disconnect the line from the slave because I didn't have enough play othherwise to get the rod out. Once out, I just reconnected the slave to the line, but it did slowly drip, and some leaked out previous. Also, the rod pushed in when I reconnected and more oil came out. I realize now that this was because the clutch was in its down position. Anyway, thanks to the group, this is an easy thing to take care of.

As far as being almost home: I am completely reassembled. I have done every step except fire it up now. Radiator is full, all lines reattached. Fan back on, throttle reconnected.

Tomorrow I take my coolant to the recycling center, change the oil, drain the tank and change the filter and let 'er rip.

Matt

danglerb

You might want to check, but most places coolant can just go down the normal drain, the sewage treatment microbes take care of it fine.

leperboy

Here is where I am at: I backfilled the slave and pumped the clutch . I have gotten about two inches of clutch travel back, but not nearly all of it.

Looking at the WSM, it looks like the next step is to pull the slave out of the clutch housing with the clutch pedal up and--with the bleeder screw closed-- manually force the push rod into the slave and then release it to force out any other air. Is this right, or any other suggestions?

Thanks again,
Matt

Fabio421

If you can open the bleeder while pushing the slave rod in it will expell the air there. Keep the rod pushed in until you snug up the bleeder or you will draw more air into the system. The rod can be difficult to push so you may need an assistant. I just went through this a week or so ago. I ended up buying a power bleeder. It was money well spent.