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Removing 5spd bell housing & torque tube w the clutch still in?

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Old 01-08-2007, 09:41 PM
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deliriousga
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Default Removing 5spd bell housing & torque tube w the clutch still in?

Still working on getting the stuck clutch pack out and I have an idea but want some feedback before I go for it. I listed everything I've tried at the end if you need to know what hasn't worked so far.

I'm thinking about removing the bolts from the bell housing then remove the torque tube to tranny bolts. After that I think I can lower the rear of the torque tube and the angle will allow the bell housing to go around the clutch pack and slide out behind it. Then I will have room to use a slide hammer to pull the short shaft out the rest of the way. I'm replacing the torque tube with the clutch so it would kill two birds with one stone too.

Is this at all possible? I'm down to what I think is my last option so I'm really hoping this will work.

TIA!

What's been tried so far:
The short shaft is stuck in the pilot bearing and I have banged the short shaft out until it hits the shaft from the torque tube and can't go any further. I think the short shaft has pulled the pilot bearing out partially so it won't go back in leaving me between a rock and a hard place. I tried to cut about 1/2" off the short shaft to give it room to move, but the hack saw blades on two different electric saws will hardly scratch the darn thing (I guess that's good in the long run).
Old 01-08-2007, 11:07 PM
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Ted928
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Remove bell housing bolts from block (I don't recall if you need to remove the starter). Loosen the two transmission mount bolts. Slide tranny and tube to the rear giving you an extra inch or so to remove the clutch pack.
Old 01-09-2007, 12:23 AM
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jon928se
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As Ted says you have to slide the tranny back. From memory the tranny input shaft sticks forwards into the TT so you can't just drop that end without moving the tranny.

first undo the tranny mount bolts, then
You can probably do one of three things, to gain the extra 1/2" of movement you need. any should work but I can't remember which will be easiest:-
1 undo bell housing bolts and slide bell housing, TT and Tranny backwards as 1 unit
2 undo TT to bell housing bolts and slide TT and tranny back
3 undo TT to tranny bolts slide tranny back and slide central shaft (inside TT) back with it

Whichever of the three you choose (whichever set of bolts is easiest to access) it would be wothwhile propping the engine and the tranny so they can't tilt forwards or backwards once they are no longer rigidly connected to each other.
Old 01-09-2007, 10:24 AM
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deliriousga
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Great info guys. I already have the tranny half way done to remove the TT so I'll just go ahead and get her loose, unbolt the bell housing and slide it all back about an inch. That should be enough room to get the short shaft out.

Thanks!
Old 01-09-2007, 10:28 AM
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Mike Frye
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John,

You might want to check out Bill Ball's website. He's got a write-up about replacing the rear main seal that I think might help you too (for access). Lots of good pix. Good luck.


it would be worthwhile propping the engine and the tranny so they can't tilt forwards or backwards once they are no longer rigidly connected to each other.
x2
Old 01-09-2007, 02:39 PM
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AO
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Oh ****, John! Are you still ****ing around with this thing? I surprised you did set the car on fire and call the insurance comapny and tell them you had a slight smoking mis-hap!

I'm sorry I don't have any suggestions for you, except that when this eventually happens to me, I'm calling you... strike that, I'm calling the person who ends up giving you the correct answer! LOL!

Good luck brother! We'll hoist a few at SITM!

P.S. Save the i-shaft for the shrine! We'll teach that bastard whose boss!
Old 01-09-2007, 05:28 PM
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Bus
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Default Engine... hate to do it...

John,
I really hate to hear all that you've had to go through on this job... I had the engine out of my car after about 5 - 6 hours work, and you've already got several of the components pulled... You may be time ahead to do this.

I wouldn't want to do that if I were you either... however, you've probably got a lot more time than that in it already.



Are you rebuilding the torque tube yourself? I may be in a position to have to do this same job in the next few months... May have to lean on you for advice...
Old 01-09-2007, 08:41 PM
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deliriousga
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Good luck brother! We'll hoist a few at SITM!

P.S. Save the i-shaft for the shrine! We'll teach that bastard whose boss!
Thank God SITM is something to look forward to. Right now I'm in Porsche Hell. The Boxster quit in a store parking lot last week so it's dead in the driveway too until I finish the 928. We're driving mom's Saturn VUE (thank God for some form of transportaion) but really having withdrawals and not much time to work on these things with work deadlines looming.

Originally Posted by Bus
Are you rebuilding the torque tube yourself? I may be in a position to have to do this same job in the next few months... May have to lean on you for advice...
I'm not rebuilding the tube myself. I ordered a rebuilt because I didn't know how long it would take me to do the rebuild once I got it out of the car and I really need it running asap.
Old 01-10-2007, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by deliriousga
I'm not rebuilding the tube myself. I ordered a rebuilt because I didn't know how long it would take me to do the rebuild once I got it out of the car and I really need it running asap.
Hey John,
What is the core charge on the TT?? What is the shipping fee? I think I'm gonna have to do this job sometime in the near future, and it'd be awful convienent to build it now and just slip it in when the time comes... Might be better for both of us if I just buy your bad one and rebuild it. I'm in Chattanooga.

IIRC, 80-95 5 speed are the same?

Michael
Old 01-10-2007, 11:02 AM
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deliriousga
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The core charge was $300. I think shipping was around $65 ground from CA to GA. If you decide to do that, maybe 928 Intl would be willing to buy yours back for the core charge. I'm hopefully sending it back next week if I can get this stuff done this weekend.
Old 01-10-2007, 11:41 AM
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I'm sure someone will respond negatively to this, oh well. Do you have torches ? My '84 was frozen also. Had to cut out.
Old 01-10-2007, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by deliriousga
The core charge was $300. I think shipping was around $65 ground from CA to GA. If you decide to do that, maybe 928 Intl would be willing to buy yours back for the core charge. I'm hopefully sending it back next week if I can get this stuff done this weekend.
THREE HUNDRED BUCKS??????!!!!!!!!!!!!

Uh, never mind....

I was just reading up on a TT rebuid, and they pulled the tranny and rear suspension out... for some reason, I thought you only had to unbolt the mounts and scoot the trans back in place on manual trans cars.... So, how wrong am I?
Old 01-10-2007, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bus
I was just reading up on a TT rebuid, and they pulled the tranny and rear suspension out... for some reason, I thought you only had to unbolt the mounts and scoot the trans back in place on manual trans cars.... So, how wrong am I?
You don't have to pull the full suspension out. After disconnecting the axles from the tranny, you have to unbolt it and let it drop so you can slide it back. The clutch has to come out to reach the top two bolts inside the bell housing on the TT. If my clutch had dropped like it's supposed to it would have taken me about 9-10 hours.
Old 01-24-2007, 11:04 AM
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John,
What's the update??? Get the shark back on the road???

Michael
Old 01-28-2007, 05:17 PM
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deliriousga
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Originally Posted by Bus
John,
What's the update??? Get the shark back on the road???

Michael
Nope. I bought a tranny jack last week and have it moved back about 4" completely disconnected from the TT. I can't get the bell housing to move back. It's hung on the built-in aligning pins.

I did get the clutch disc pulled back some so I can see the flywheel and that confirmed the pilot bearing is pulled out almost all the way and that's what is hanging the clutch up.

I came in today to see if I can find any ideas on how to get the bell housing to pop loose. Once that happens I think I can get the pilot bearing to pull out all the way and the clutch pack should fall out.


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