Removing 5spd bell housing & torque tube w the clutch still in?
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Still working on getting the stuck clutch pack out and I have an idea but want some feedback before I go for it. I listed everything I've tried at the end if you need to know what hasn't worked so far.
I'm thinking about removing the bolts from the bell housing then remove the torque tube to tranny bolts. After that I think I can lower the rear of the torque tube and the angle will allow the bell housing to go around the clutch pack and slide out behind it. Then I will have room to use a slide hammer to pull the short shaft out the rest of the way. I'm replacing the torque tube with the clutch so it would kill two birds with one stone too.
Is this at all possible? I'm down to what I think is my last option so I'm really hoping this will work.
TIA!
What's been tried so far:
The short shaft is stuck in the pilot bearing and I have banged the short shaft out until it hits the shaft from the torque tube and can't go any further. I think the short shaft has pulled the pilot bearing out partially so it won't go back in leaving me between a rock and a hard place. I tried to cut about 1/2" off the short shaft to give it room to move, but the hack saw blades on two different electric saws will hardly scratch the darn thing (I guess that's good in the long run).
I'm thinking about removing the bolts from the bell housing then remove the torque tube to tranny bolts. After that I think I can lower the rear of the torque tube and the angle will allow the bell housing to go around the clutch pack and slide out behind it. Then I will have room to use a slide hammer to pull the short shaft out the rest of the way. I'm replacing the torque tube with the clutch so it would kill two birds with one stone too.
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Is this at all possible? I'm down to what I think is my last option so I'm really hoping this will work.
TIA!
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What's been tried so far:
The short shaft is stuck in the pilot bearing and I have banged the short shaft out until it hits the shaft from the torque tube and can't go any further. I think the short shaft has pulled the pilot bearing out partially so it won't go back in leaving me between a rock and a hard place. I tried to cut about 1/2" off the short shaft to give it room to move, but the hack saw blades on two different electric saws will hardly scratch the darn thing (I guess that's good in the long run).
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Remove bell housing bolts from block (I don't recall if you need to remove the starter). Loosen the two transmission mount bolts. Slide tranny and tube to the rear giving you an extra inch or so to remove the clutch pack.
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As Ted says you have to slide the tranny back. From memory the tranny input shaft sticks forwards into the TT so you can't just drop that end without moving the tranny.
first undo the tranny mount bolts, then
You can probably do one of three things, to gain the extra 1/2" of movement you need. any should work but I can't remember which will be easiest:-
1 undo bell housing bolts and slide bell housing, TT and Tranny backwards as 1 unit
2 undo TT to bell housing bolts and slide TT and tranny back
3 undo TT to tranny bolts slide tranny back and slide central shaft (inside TT) back with it
Whichever of the three you choose (whichever set of bolts is easiest to access) it would be wothwhile propping the engine and the tranny so they can't tilt forwards or backwards once they are no longer rigidly connected to each other.
first undo the tranny mount bolts, then
You can probably do one of three things, to gain the extra 1/2" of movement you need. any should work but I can't remember which will be easiest:-
1 undo bell housing bolts and slide bell housing, TT and Tranny backwards as 1 unit
2 undo TT to bell housing bolts and slide TT and tranny back
3 undo TT to tranny bolts slide tranny back and slide central shaft (inside TT) back with it
Whichever of the three you choose (whichever set of bolts is easiest to access) it would be wothwhile propping the engine and the tranny so they can't tilt forwards or backwards once they are no longer rigidly connected to each other.
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Great info guys. I already have the tranny half way done to remove the TT so I'll just go ahead and get her loose, unbolt the bell housing and slide it all back about an inch. That should be enough room to get the short shaft out.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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#5
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John,
You might want to check out Bill Ball's website. He's got a write-up about replacing the rear main seal that I think might help you too (for access). Lots of good pix. Good luck.
x2
You might want to check out Bill Ball's website. He's got a write-up about replacing the rear main seal that I think might help you too (for access). Lots of good pix. Good luck.
it would be worthwhile propping the engine and the tranny so they can't tilt forwards or backwards once they are no longer rigidly connected to each other.
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Oh ****, John! Are you still ****ing around with this thing? I surprised you did set the car on fire and call the insurance comapny and tell them you had a slight smoking mis-hap! ![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
I'm sorry I don't have any suggestions for you, except that when this eventually happens to me, I'm calling you... strike that, I'm calling the person who ends up giving you the correct answer! LOL!
Good luck brother! We'll hoist a few at SITM!
P.S. Save the i-shaft for the shrine! We'll teach that bastard whose boss!
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I'm sorry I don't have any suggestions for you, except that when this eventually happens to me, I'm calling you... strike that, I'm calling the person who ends up giving you the correct answer! LOL!
Good luck brother! We'll hoist a few at SITM!
P.S. Save the i-shaft for the shrine! We'll teach that bastard whose boss!
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John,
I really hate to hear all that you've had to go through on this job... I had the engine out of my car after about 5 - 6 hours work, and you've already got several of the components pulled... You may be time ahead to do this.
I wouldn't want to do that if I were you either... however, you've probably got a lot more time than that in it already.
Are you rebuilding the torque tube yourself? I may be in a position to have to do this same job in the next few months... May have to lean on you for advice...
I really hate to hear all that you've had to go through on this job... I had the engine out of my car after about 5 - 6 hours work, and you've already got several of the components pulled... You may be time ahead to do this.
I wouldn't want to do that if I were you either... however, you've probably got a lot more time than that in it already.
Are you rebuilding the torque tube yourself? I may be in a position to have to do this same job in the next few months... May have to lean on you for advice...
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Good luck brother! We'll hoist a few at SITM!
P.S. Save the i-shaft for the shrine! We'll teach that bastard whose boss!![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
P.S. Save the i-shaft for the shrine! We'll teach that bastard whose boss!
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Originally Posted by Bus
Are you rebuilding the torque tube yourself? I may be in a position to have to do this same job in the next few months... May have to lean on you for advice...
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Originally Posted by deliriousga
I'm not rebuilding the tube myself. I ordered a rebuilt because I didn't know how long it would take me to do the rebuild once I got it out of the car and I really need it running asap.
What is the core charge on the TT?? What is the shipping fee? I think I'm gonna have to do this job sometime in the near future, and it'd be awful convienent to build it now and just slip it in when the time comes... Might be better for both of us if I just buy your bad one and rebuild it. I'm in Chattanooga.
IIRC, 80-95 5 speed are the same?
Michael
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The core charge was $300. I think shipping was around $65 ground from CA to GA. If you decide to do that, maybe 928 Intl would be willing to buy yours back for the core charge. I'm hopefully sending it back next week if I can get this stuff done this weekend.
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Originally Posted by deliriousga
The core charge was $300. I think shipping was around $65 ground from CA to GA. If you decide to do that, maybe 928 Intl would be willing to buy yours back for the core charge. I'm hopefully sending it back next week if I can get this stuff done this weekend.
Uh, never mind....
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I was just reading up on a TT rebuid, and they pulled the tranny and rear suspension out... for some reason, I thought you only had to unbolt the mounts and scoot the trans back in place on manual trans cars.... So, how wrong am I?
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Originally Posted by Bus
I was just reading up on a TT rebuid, and they pulled the tranny and rear suspension out... for some reason, I thought you only had to unbolt the mounts and scoot the trans back in place on manual trans cars.... So, how wrong am I?
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Originally Posted by Bus
John,
What's the update??? Get the shark back on the road???
Michael
What's the update??? Get the shark back on the road???
Michael
I did get the clutch disc pulled back some so I can see the flywheel and that confirmed the pilot bearing is pulled out almost all the way and that's what is hanging the clutch up.
I came in today to see if I can find any ideas on how to get the bell housing to pop loose. Once that happens I think I can get the pilot bearing to pull out all the way and the clutch pack should fall out.