source for steering wheel leather recover kit
01-05-2007, 11:35 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
Hi Scott,
When I bought my low mileage 79, the first thing i noticed was the stitching had just about gone to dust. I went to Wallmart and bought some black upholstery thread. Cost about $4.00. I spent around 6 hours over 2 days to finally arrive at the correct stitching pattern and finish the entire wheel. There were parts i thought would be ok but I finally wound up doing the whole thing. If i had seen Paul's work first, i would have sent it to him. My hands hurt for a week after doing this job. It was tedious and frustrating.
Best of luck
When I bought my low mileage 79, the first thing i noticed was the stitching had just about gone to dust. I went to Wallmart and bought some black upholstery thread. Cost about $4.00. I spent around 6 hours over 2 days to finally arrive at the correct stitching pattern and finish the entire wheel. There were parts i thought would be ok but I finally wound up doing the whole thing. If i had seen Paul's work first, i would have sent it to him. My hands hurt for a week after doing this job. It was tedious and frustrating.
Best of luck
01-05-2007, 07:06 PM
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Beverly Hills, CA
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tommy, Email sent regarding '87 steering wheel.
Originally Posted by Tommy928
If anyone are interested I have an excellent condition black steering wheel taken off my 87' 928 - give me an offer.
I also have a like new, barely used, Momo Club 4 with box and manual that I no longer need - give me an offer.
Email me for pictures at: tommylaye@msn.com
I also have a like new, barely used, Momo Club 4 with box and manual that I no longer need - give me an offer.
Email me for pictures at: tommylaye@msn.com
01-06-2007, 12:45 AM
#19
Drifting
With all the talk of cheap but unreliable sources and excellent but expensive sources I'm thinking that maybe mine isn't so bad after all:
As you can probably see, the threading is gone. Probably disintegrated like someone mentioned. The worst part of the cover is the top, which is worn faded & cracked a little, but otherwise whole.
Can this cover be saved?
As you can probably see, the threading is gone. Probably disintegrated like someone mentioned. The worst part of the cover is the top, which is worn faded & cracked a little, but otherwise whole.
Can this cover be saved?
Last edited by bronto; 01-06-2007 at 08:35 PM.
01-06-2007, 03:03 AM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Walmart had the needles, but not any thread I liked, same for Joann fabrics. Waxed saddle stitching thread is what I was told I should use, with a pair of curved needles like Garths pict shows.
Just the stitching between the top two posts is bad on my wheel, and its totally frayed out, almost like it was cut to replace it and not finished. A pro would knock out that in half an hour, providing I can find someone, but I live in a horse town, somebody sews leather.
Bronto *** check your steering wheel carefully, other threads have talked about the welds going bad on the three spoke wheels.
Just the stitching between the top two posts is bad on my wheel, and its totally frayed out, almost like it was cut to replace it and not finished. A pro would knock out that in half an hour, providing I can find someone, but I live in a horse town, somebody sews leather.
Bronto *** check your steering wheel carefully, other threads have talked about the welds going bad on the three spoke wheels.
01-06-2007, 08:02 AM
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
As I am sure Paul Champagne would tell you, stitching leather and making it look good isn't a secret you really can give away over t'internet even if you wanted to give it away. Yeah there are the odd tricks of the trade but they won't really help turn a dogs breakfast into the dukes underpants, all you'll get is the dogs lunch.
If you can apply your mind to doing a T Belt job then you probably could do a Paul Champagne on your steering wheel but BIG BUT it will probably take you about 5 or 6 steering wheel leather kits to get it right, and another 3 or 4 to get it really right
I have no affiliation or connection with Paul Champagne (or whatever his last name really is) I just recognise the craftsmanship that he and I think his OH have obviously so painfully learnt. I only wish I was half that good.
Oh and some useful contribution
curved needles come in handy when you need to keep the previous stitches closer together but they aren't 100% essential. My experience with leather is that a bigger thread is easier to learn with, less likely to cut it's own holes in the leather and in your fingers and it is less likely to snap when you are trying to get that little wrinkle out. Oh and you don't need to buy it waxed - wax it yourself, solid beeswax is readily available.
Moral of the story
can't beat a little or a lot of practice.
If you can apply your mind to doing a T Belt job then you probably could do a Paul Champagne on your steering wheel but BIG BUT it will probably take you about 5 or 6 steering wheel leather kits to get it right, and another 3 or 4 to get it really right
I have no affiliation or connection with Paul Champagne (or whatever his last name really is) I just recognise the craftsmanship that he and I think his OH have obviously so painfully learnt. I only wish I was half that good.
Oh and some useful contribution
curved needles come in handy when you need to keep the previous stitches closer together but they aren't 100% essential. My experience with leather is that a bigger thread is easier to learn with, less likely to cut it's own holes in the leather and in your fingers and it is less likely to snap when you are trying to get that little wrinkle out. Oh and you don't need to buy it waxed - wax it yourself, solid beeswax is readily available.
Moral of the story
can't beat a little or a lot of practice.
01-06-2007, 11:01 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
Jon,
I couldn't agree more! If new leather is required, it takes one of considerable skill to fashion the material to skin tight shape. The stitching is the easy part IMO ...... and Paul C's work is absolutely first class.
If one has existing leather that is not mouse chewed, it can often be brought back to life by careful washing in Saddlers soap and treatment with leather conditioners ( Tack store stuff for the horsey people). Mouldy, grey leather stiff as a board can come out as new, for it is a surprisingly resilient material.
As far as stitching, at my amateur level, all the stitches are laid in without much tension for 3-4" ... and then go back with the hooked tool shown in the previous pic to correctly tension them: I've found that far easier than tugging on the needles - and the stitches come out quite evenly with less risk of tearing.
An occasional rub down with the beeswax never seems to hurt - the stitches, that is .....
I couldn't agree more! If new leather is required, it takes one of considerable skill to fashion the material to skin tight shape. The stitching is the easy part IMO ...... and Paul C's work is absolutely first class.
If one has existing leather that is not mouse chewed, it can often be brought back to life by careful washing in Saddlers soap and treatment with leather conditioners ( Tack store stuff for the horsey people). Mouldy, grey leather stiff as a board can come out as new, for it is a surprisingly resilient material.
As far as stitching, at my amateur level, all the stitches are laid in without much tension for 3-4" ... and then go back with the hooked tool shown in the previous pic to correctly tension them: I've found that far easier than tugging on the needles - and the stitches come out quite evenly with less risk of tearing.
An occasional rub down with the beeswax never seems to hurt - the stitches, that is .....
