Ken mine is a 32V engine, and I am sure that the TPS is installed correctly and the idle switch works and disengages with no issues.

as to the WOT switch being in plug 3 for the EZF, I doubt that the Po would have ever done this, if it was done by anyone it would have been like that from the factory,

and my idle is set alittle higher than 680, I have mine idling right now at about 850rpm.

 

Hi Ken,
Pin 3 LH is closed throttle switch....... pin 12 LH is WOT switch.


Lizard - AFAIK there are no differences between LH/EZK wiring or pins between LH 84-86 Euro, 85/86 32v or 86.5 32v units.

 

Lizard931 said: "I also figured I would mention that I run 87 octane all year around and have never had any pinging issues."

Porken said:" I've been running 89 octane without problems."

Its a cool mod. Porken, I'd just like to point out that raising the octane of fuel used is gonna give you a huge margin of safety that may not be apparent in the winter months but when all this crappy weather ends and we get back to those 90degree/ highload I wanna drive my car everyday scenario's, your not gonna experience any problems either.

Mark

 

Oops, should have looked at the diagram for more than 5 secs, before posting, doh!

Mark,

True. I usually add the caveat that I run a grade lower in the winter, but raise it in the summer.

On my '81, with 4° (cam) cam advance, and 3° (crank) ignition advance, I have to run 89 or I get pinging. In stock tune, I never had a problem with 87.

 

I was sitting in the '86, yesterday, waiting while 'Honey Bunny' was shopping, and I noticed just how smooth the engine was. I thought of all the moving parts on the 32V, and I sat there marvelling at the way it never stumbles, or changes rpm, just purrs quietly. If I didn't look at the tach, I wouldn't even know it was running!



I didn't have it in stock tune for long, so I don't remember how it was then. Now, it has the timing tweaks and 3° cam advance. I'm sure my motor mounts are shot, so the engine is sitting on the frame, too!

 

PorKen,
I installed the EZ-F'r today and I'm amazed! This mod really changed the characteristics of my '84 Euro. First I noticed a much smoother idle which I really like. Upon driving, the power comes on much smoother as well. My car with the hoppier cams still takes it's time for the power the come on, but there is noticeably more power. And more power in the midrange no doubt.

Also, with the smoother throttle, I don't get that nasty exhaust pop-pop upon deceleration.

When I first installed it, I had knock. Hmmm. Then I noticed I was near empty on fuel. So I added a couple gallons and some octane boost (10points=1 octane level) to play it safe. Also to play it safe, I installed new spark plugs (been a few years). Voila! Nice!

I can't wait to drive it some more to really get a good feel for it.

This is no doubt a must have for any 84-86 Euro owner. Best bang for the buck I've ever put into my 928.

Thanks again Ken.

Jim Doerr
'84 EuroS2 5sp
"Chewy"

 

Jim,

Very cool! I hope the plugs where the problem. Maybe some valve cleaner, too?

Isn't the idle...dreamy? I enjoy just sitting in the car, idling.

I bumped up the octane from 87, to the recommended 89 after I heard knocking for the first time ever with this car. It was after I mashed the pedal to the floor at about 60, dropped two, and launched. I just happened to be in the same spot the next day, and had to floor it again, but with super, there was no knock - just power, baby.

I've thought about using the octance loop to take 3° off the top. I haven't tried it yet, because I'm not sure if it will work. From what I read in the WSM, it appears the programming is that the octane loop/air temp retard (same circuit) only works when the full throttle switch is on, and the manifold pressure is <##mbar. The service bulletin doesn't mention the full load switch requirement. I need to test this.

Hard to say for sure, but I think this mod helped a bit with the rear end twitchyness in wet corners. There's less of a 'turbo-lag' effect. The power comes on more smoothly/controllably, so the rear stays settled.

 

Ken,
For the technically challenged (me) please sum up the timing changes. I should be able to duplicate it with the SMT-6. I did advance the timing idle when I first installed the SMT-6 per Louie's advice, works great as you have also experienced.
Thanks,

 

Disables 3° retard at idle/cruise when coolant is warm.

Disables the blanket 20° retard at full load=2/3 throttle.

It might be easier to make (or get) an EZ-F'r, then program around it. IE, you can use those map cells somewhere else?

 

Also, if the air temp sensor is not plugged in, shorted to ground (this is what the octane loop does), or if it registers >125°F, the timing is retarded 3°.

I plan on making a plug-in for an air temp sensor delete, with a fixed (cold) resistor value, next.
...

I'm curious about pin #19 for the LH, which is an input for the octane loop. The LH has connectors for the loop, but nowhere is it mentioned to plug those together at the same time as the EZF loop.

I wonder if there's a richer mapping for low octane?

 

Which tempsensor at the engine is it that gives readings for the ECU?

Should a place the 4,66k resistor in together with the tempsensor or should I diconnect the sensor and just use the resistor instead?

/Tobias

 

This thread has more detail on the possible combinations. (Tweaking EZ-F, part third)

The Temp II/coolant sensor is on the coolant bridge, with a fuel injector type connector. For LH/EZ there are two separate sensors inside, one for LH, and one for EZ, both measured to ground.

You can either add resistance to the Temp II, or just run the resistance to ground - both work.

 

Such as grouning it with a jumperwire or ground it to the engineblock, does it mather what way?


/Tobias

 

Either way would work.

Since you have a (green) 32V you could use the diagnostic port terminal 'C', which grounds to the ECU.

_C_
B_A

Because I don't need the TempII input to the EZ-F any longer, I have been thinking of using a L-Jet TempII sensor for the LH. The L-Jet sensor has only one sensor inside, but two terminals, ground and resistance, so the ground can be from the LH, instead of using the engine block.