New Roof Edge Rails Seem Too Long and Do Not Fit - Problem Corrected
12-13-2006 | 11:36 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, So Cal
New Roof Edge Rails Seem Too Long and Do Not Fit - Problem Corrected
I hope someone must have had experience with these new rails. I have no clue what to do next.
The old rails cannot be re-used reliably. They are friction fit alloy parts. Once pressed in they deform. They can be easily deformed during removal and they will loose original grip if pressed in again. I have learned it in a hard way after painting my old parts – front ends sprung out away from the window trim.
So, I got all new parts. We painted them, installed them – and as my shop have warned me correctly – they are too long.
Since P/Ns for left and right rail is the same for all models, and visible changes between my old and new rails is limited to the inside of the rails, I have no clue why these Porsche part would not fit.
I really want to fix this - but how??
Appreciate any input,
Voytek
1987 S4
The old rails cannot be re-used reliably. They are friction fit alloy parts. Once pressed in they deform. They can be easily deformed during removal and they will loose original grip if pressed in again. I have learned it in a hard way after painting my old parts – front ends sprung out away from the window trim.
So, I got all new parts. We painted them, installed them – and as my shop have warned me correctly – they are too long.
Since P/Ns for left and right rail is the same for all models, and visible changes between my old and new rails is limited to the inside of the rails, I have no clue why these Porsche part would not fit.
I really want to fix this - but how??
Appreciate any input,
Voytek
1987 S4
Last edited by Voytek; 12-16-2006 at 11:09 PM. Reason: Found resolution
12-14-2006 | 01:52 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,283
Likes: 49
From: Australia
Just had mine fully repainted, with these trims removed. Only issue was the rear retainers (the one screwed to the body under the front edge of the hatch) broke on removal - readily replaced, although needing to come from Germany. No apparent issues with fit that I can see, so far.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
12-16-2006 | 11:15 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, So Cal
I have removed my "too long" rails, damaging them of course since shop put some silicone inside and that bonded them enough.
I have tested the one UPS damaged rails I had. I have no idea why, but it seams one has to follow the right sequence and then VOILA, it all fits - with a few tricks of course.
The lessons learned:
1. Porsche was right when advising me there should be NO substance inside the rail - they are not friction fit. They snap over the roof/pillar flange lip, using two spring plates inside (see attached picture). Any silicone hardened even a bit WILL prevent the rail from snapping over the flange lip.
2. The testing shows that Porsche did change the part to provide close fit between front section the rail and the windshield trim. The new parts seem to eliminate the gaps between windshield trim and the rails.
3. This will be procedure I will post on Reenlist:
a) Clear the entire roof/pillar flange outer lip from ANY silicone - it will interfere and prevent rail from reaching fully inserted position.
b) push front of the rail half way in by placing front rail drooping lip in the optimal position,
c) pushing rest of the rail 1/2 way in, and checking the rear alignment with back plate in,
d) even when rear seems to be a bit too long (like 1/8" or 3/16") - it will get in place once the rail is in fully inserted position - remember that the back plate has slightly lass than 90 degrees angle, and once screw is in fully secured, plate will be flush with the rail's end.
e) if rear protrudes too far, remove rail and reposition the front. Drooping lip should never touch the fender.
f) once right position if found, push with your hands the rail in quite hard in the front until it snaps into the right position. Follow the rail and pound on it with your hands. Be very careful when using mallet - too hard pounding may lead to upper surface of the rail to buckle. I have done it. I know. If the rail does not snap into the place there must be still excessive amount of silicone on the flange or inside the rail. Go back and scrape it off with plastic scraper or with Dremel if inside the rail.
Voytek
1987S4
I have tested the one UPS damaged rails I had. I have no idea why, but it seams one has to follow the right sequence and then VOILA, it all fits - with a few tricks of course.
The lessons learned:
1. Porsche was right when advising me there should be NO substance inside the rail - they are not friction fit. They snap over the roof/pillar flange lip, using two spring plates inside (see attached picture). Any silicone hardened even a bit WILL prevent the rail from snapping over the flange lip.
2. The testing shows that Porsche did change the part to provide close fit between front section the rail and the windshield trim. The new parts seem to eliminate the gaps between windshield trim and the rails.
3. This will be procedure I will post on Reenlist:
a) Clear the entire roof/pillar flange outer lip from ANY silicone - it will interfere and prevent rail from reaching fully inserted position.
b) push front of the rail half way in by placing front rail drooping lip in the optimal position,
c) pushing rest of the rail 1/2 way in, and checking the rear alignment with back plate in,
d) even when rear seems to be a bit too long (like 1/8" or 3/16") - it will get in place once the rail is in fully inserted position - remember that the back plate has slightly lass than 90 degrees angle, and once screw is in fully secured, plate will be flush with the rail's end.
e) if rear protrudes too far, remove rail and reposition the front. Drooping lip should never touch the fender.
f) once right position if found, push with your hands the rail in quite hard in the front until it snaps into the right position. Follow the rail and pound on it with your hands. Be very careful when using mallet - too hard pounding may lead to upper surface of the rail to buckle. I have done it. I know. If the rail does not snap into the place there must be still excessive amount of silicone on the flange or inside the rail. Go back and scrape it off with plastic scraper or with Dremel if inside the rail.
Voytek
1987S4