ceedee

thanks garth
some good pieces of advise you gave me.
i am just about to go out in the garage and start working on it

i just want to double check on the size of the hose... it is 8 mm , right?
all i can find is in inches

Garth S

I just checked some new OEM injector hoses - they are 7.4mm id x 43mm long. A nominal 8mm high pressure fuel injection hose may measure less than 8mm, so would be fine. If SAE is the only option, use 5/16" .... but never use 'fuel line' - it will come apart in days.
The rail and injector barbs are 10mm max, so with stiff hose, one can see that the fit is snug! save the cup washers by cutting the hose off with a razor blade/knife - and reuse: there will be no leaks.

Fabio421

DO NOT DRIVE WITH THE LEAK !!!!!

ceedee

ok it's a done deal

it was as bad as i made it look when i was looking in the engine bay this morning.
sorry mel, for being all whiney and crying about it.

this is what i've done
- took the intake off- then the stud on the left side , where the intake is connected to.
(otherwise one can't get to the fuelrail)
- unbolted the fuelrail on both sides.
- then unbolted each injector
pulled the whole mess out (there was a little gas spillage but i anticipated that with a cup and it was way less than i thought)
- i started with the last injector on the rail.
- cut the hose in half and unplugged the injector
- then i cut a notch into the washer, i used some side cutters (garth told me not to , but when i saw his reply, i done it already, sorry bro)
- with a sharp utility knife i cut from that notch into the hose and split it in half and with a pair of needle nosed pliers i pulled the hose out of the crimped washer.
- the washer comes of without problem, then
- i cut the hose (5/16) into 2" sections. and then i lubed them a bit with wd 40
- then i pushed the hose section onto the rail (don't forget both hose clamps now, i did it twice and it is really annoying when you got the injector on and have to undo the clamps all the way to fit em around the hose)
- i tightened the clamps with a ratched instead of a phillips head screwdriver. (get's way tighter)
- did that 4 times
- and put it all back together...
watch out that you don't lose any of the little rubber bushings inside the injector. and when you put in the rail make sure the plug points down before you tighten the 4 little bolts.
now it's time for the bolts on the front and back of the rail. don't forget the stud for the intake
i put the intake together leaving just the left intake tube out. (so that i could see any leaks, but there were none)
that is how i did it
garth recommened to leave the washers on. again i cut them already so that was no option for me.
also it looked as if there wasn't very much left on the injector and the rail side where the hose could rest.
the hoses apart from one looked pretty good. but when i took them apart i saw how briddle they were. it took me maybe 2 hours to do one side. and cost maybe 20 bucks. next weekend i will do the right bank .
but i really recommend you to check your fuel hoses. the might leak and you won't know it (or even look descent ), but again most of em are 10-20 years old. and i read quite a few thread on engine fires here.

wow i didn't see that pic when i wrote this...but that's exactly what i was talking about.
i will post some pics of the install later

ceedee

thank you all for your help and insight...
i hope this thread will help others and make us aware of a ticking time bomb

ceedee

btw when i'll be done with my fuel line restoration it will be about 10 bucks more than the one from 928 intl.com so you might wanna order it right there.
but mine was same day delivery

danglerb

My order from 928Intl only took 5 min to deliver.

OTOH I dropped off the bag of parts and told the mechanic to change em along with a laundry list of small tasks thinking it was only a couple hours labor..... Only way to find out what jobs to let them do, is to let them do some.