abs fuse blown
#1
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abs fuse blown
After a few months in storage, my battery died. Needed a jump to get started. Runs fine, but the ABS light comes on immediately on starting and stays on. I checked the fuse and it's blown. Put in a new one and it blew immediately (with the car off, no key in the ignition). I checked with a voltmeter across the fuse and it's running 12.40v with no key in the ignition. Everything else appears to be working fine.
Should there be voltage at the fuse with the car off? I'm thinking possibly a short somewhere in the ABS system, but it seems strange that it would start right after a jump. Never had any problems before. Maybe the relay is shot? Would that lead to the fuse blowing?
Should there be voltage at the fuse with the car off? I'm thinking possibly a short somewhere in the ABS system, but it seems strange that it would start right after a jump. Never had any problems before. Maybe the relay is shot? Would that lead to the fuse blowing?
#2
Nordschleife Master
See what the resistance is between the abs side of the fuse and ground, blowing fuses immediately does kind of sound like a short, just trace until you find the segment thats grounded.
#3
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As the famous Mr. Bailey would say . . . RELAY, RELAY, RELAY!
Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd
Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd
#4
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If its fuse 16 that is blowing then it should only be active when the ignition is on. If it blows before you turn the key - then likely the ABS relay is fried - the relay contacts come after the fuse and should be open with the ignition off...
There is also a protection diode built into the relay to eliminate big spike induction on switching - maybe that has short circuited...
The ABS relay is not a regular xx.53 type so you will need to get a correct replacement. As an initial check - remove the relay - replace the fuse and make sure it doesn't still blow... ABS will not be functional but it will eliminate other possible causes for a direct short... like local wiring at the fuse/relay.
Once the relay is out check it - look for low resistance between terminal 30 (+) and terminal 31 (-) if there is anything less than 1 Mohm your relay is shot - if you have a diode tester try that you should have continuity only in reverse polearity 31(+) & 30(-)
Alan
There is also a protection diode built into the relay to eliminate big spike induction on switching - maybe that has short circuited...
The ABS relay is not a regular xx.53 type so you will need to get a correct replacement. As an initial check - remove the relay - replace the fuse and make sure it doesn't still blow... ABS will not be functional but it will eliminate other possible causes for a direct short... like local wiring at the fuse/relay.
Once the relay is out check it - look for low resistance between terminal 30 (+) and terminal 31 (-) if there is anything less than 1 Mohm your relay is shot - if you have a diode tester try that you should have continuity only in reverse polearity 31(+) & 30(-)
Alan
#5
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Hi also check the wire harness in front of the power steering resivour be careful it is hot with the battery connected, it is secured with a big phillips head screw this wire might be grounding on a part under the resivour tank, or inside the wheel well
#6
Race Director
Mine had a bad relay...but the fuse was fine......I just bought a used relay from 928intl for 1/2 the price of a new one.....been fine for over a year now!
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Thanks, all. I took out the relay and there was no power at the fuse box. I'm pretty sure the relay is the problem. A new relay has been ordered - I'll give an update when I get it installed.
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#9
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Got to love old threads.... pulled my relay.. fuse stopped blowing... now to find the relay to replace it... $89 and ship from 928 International... lets hope this fixes it