bleeding master cylinder form inside the car, need help
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
bleeding master cylinder form inside the car, need help
I've read the posts that describe disconnecting the clutch pedal linkage and bleeding any air trapped in the master cylinder by moving the rod to the side to get the air trapped to come out past the seal.
Does this require removing the circlip and letting the internals of the cylinder slide out part way or is it done by merely disconnecting the linkage and pushing the rod to the side as much as it will go?
Also, do I loosen the rubber boot from the body of the master cylinder to see the fluid escape or let it stay trapped withing the boot...assuming I get some to burp out past the seal?
I've tried this once without removing the circlip and leaving the boot in place, it didn't help and using a power bleeder attached I've run at least a liter and a half through the slave cylinder bleed port with no luck. Solid column of fluid for a long time yet once I tighten everything up the pedal feels too loose at first press, starting the car in gear with the pedal down and the clutch is only partially disengaged....
I partially loosened the slave cylinder as well, bolts almost completely backed out, and tipped the bleed fitting up while working it's rod by moving the body of the slave back toward the clutch lever to actuate the internals of it because I read that it will remove trapped air in the slave....so far no joy! should I have completely disconnected the slave from the car?
HELP!
Does this require removing the circlip and letting the internals of the cylinder slide out part way or is it done by merely disconnecting the linkage and pushing the rod to the side as much as it will go?
Also, do I loosen the rubber boot from the body of the master cylinder to see the fluid escape or let it stay trapped withing the boot...assuming I get some to burp out past the seal?
I've tried this once without removing the circlip and leaving the boot in place, it didn't help and using a power bleeder attached I've run at least a liter and a half through the slave cylinder bleed port with no luck. Solid column of fluid for a long time yet once I tighten everything up the pedal feels too loose at first press, starting the car in gear with the pedal down and the clutch is only partially disengaged....
I partially loosened the slave cylinder as well, bolts almost completely backed out, and tipped the bleed fitting up while working it's rod by moving the body of the slave back toward the clutch lever to actuate the internals of it because I read that it will remove trapped air in the slave....so far no joy! should I have completely disconnected the slave from the car?
HELP!
Rocket Pilot
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From: gettysburg pa.
Power bleed from the slave and pedal will usually only be a 1/4 to 1/2 firm. After this for me it has been a must to remove clutch rod and boot, use circlip pliers to remove circlip holding pressure on the piston so it doesn't fly out! Make sure you note orientation of circlip and the washer, Then gently let the piston out till a little fluid trickles. You may even hear a burp. Push it back down and reinsert the washer and circlip, rod and boot. You should have a good pedal.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Originally Posted by Kevin Michael
Power bleed from the slave and pedal will usually only be a 1/4 to 1/2 firm. After this for me it has been a must to remove clutch rod and boot, use circlip pliers to remove circlip holding pressure on the piston so it doesn't fly out! Make sure you note orientation of circlip and the washer, Then gently let the piston out till a little fluid trickles. You may even hear a burp. Push it back down and reinsert the washer and circlip, rod and boot. You should have a good pedal.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,203
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From: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
While I was waiting for an answer I went out and tried it with no pressure. Found my circlip pliers weren't going to work...need a 90degree set, the straight ones I have wont line up due to the handles being in the way. I gave it a good wiggle and went to put it all back together because it felt better although I got no burp or fluid from it.
But one other thing that I inadvertently did just now is I extended the linkage rod, I had originally just counted exposed threads on the adjustment nut from the old install and set it up the same way when I installed the new master but just now I reset the adjustment.
Well by doing that it feels solid the whole way through. The only difference is now the engagement/disengagement point is closer to the floor board. From just a feels-like-while-driving measurement I'd say with the pedal approximately 2 inches from all the way in is where the clutch now releases. Before it was a little higher off the floor. I think I like it there but wonder if i'm dragging the clutch. The car doesn't move while giving it some gas and the clutch in while in gear with no brake so I guess it's alright.
But one other thing that I inadvertently did just now is I extended the linkage rod, I had originally just counted exposed threads on the adjustment nut from the old install and set it up the same way when I installed the new master but just now I reset the adjustment.
Well by doing that it feels solid the whole way through. The only difference is now the engagement/disengagement point is closer to the floor board. From just a feels-like-while-driving measurement I'd say with the pedal approximately 2 inches from all the way in is where the clutch now releases. Before it was a little higher off the floor. I think I like it there but wonder if i'm dragging the clutch. The car doesn't move while giving it some gas and the clutch in while in gear with no brake so I guess it's alright.
Rocket Pilot
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From: gettysburg pa.
Careful with that pedal preload, it can be tricky. Properly bleed the clutch at the slave and the master as I pointed out earlier, then adjust the rod till it touches piston, and then back off one turn. This works well for me and I think it is the proper procedure. Also I noticed your sc'd. What system and what psi??
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
According to the manual it says:
"Adjust for zero clearance with the pushrod disengaged to allow the pushrod to be pushed over the pin without any load being present. Then preload the pushrod by rotating by one turn and lock the nut."
So I think they are they saying, put it on extended so far that it slips right on then extend the length by one turn...
And I think you are saying, put it on, extend it until it just touches the piston, then back it off one turn...
It sounds like your method shortens the final setting by one revolution and theirs lengthens it by one....a swing of two revolutions net difference between the two methods.
Am I misunderstanding what "preload" means in their description?
The answer to your other question is, my supercharger is a FAST kit, it has a 5psi maximum I'm guessing due to the pulley.
Thanks for the help!
"Adjust for zero clearance with the pushrod disengaged to allow the pushrod to be pushed over the pin without any load being present. Then preload the pushrod by rotating by one turn and lock the nut."
So I think they are they saying, put it on extended so far that it slips right on then extend the length by one turn...
And I think you are saying, put it on, extend it until it just touches the piston, then back it off one turn...
It sounds like your method shortens the final setting by one revolution and theirs lengthens it by one....a swing of two revolutions net difference between the two methods.
Am I misunderstanding what "preload" means in their description?
The answer to your other question is, my supercharger is a FAST kit, it has a 5psi maximum I'm guessing due to the pulley.
Thanks for the help!
