Mounting a battery shut off switch.
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From: Phoenix AZ
It is the terminal that connects to my power outlet in the hatch area. This one is both always on (not accessory power) and directly connected to the battery - even when the battery switch is off (hence the terminal its on). I use this for my mediuum current battery charger - of course with the battery isolated.
Alan
Alan
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It is the terminal that connects to my power outlet in the hatch area. This one is both always on (not accessory power) and directly connected to the battery - even when the battery switch is off (hence the terminal its on). I use this for my mediuum current battery charger - of course with the battery isolated.
Alan
Alan
Scott.
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From: Phoenix AZ
Aryan - I'd get the 100A continuous, 1000A instantaneous (10 sec) version.
I also have used Blue Sea Systems HD battery switches - mainly as changeover switches on the positive side. I'm not sure one would fit there - they are quite large... however they are the nicest battery switches I've seen. Great easy changeover action, incredible ratings - looks good (but not as stealthy as the Hellas can be...).
Again unfortunately I don't think one would fit there (and they are about 3-4x the cost).
Alan
I also have used Blue Sea Systems HD battery switches - mainly as changeover switches on the positive side. I'm not sure one would fit there - they are quite large... however they are the nicest battery switches I've seen. Great easy changeover action, incredible ratings - looks good (but not as stealthy as the Hellas can be...).
Again unfortunately I don't think one would fit there (and they are about 3-4x the cost).
Alan
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From: In a tizzy
When I got my GTS it had a battery disconnect at the jump post. The only problem it caused was the poor mounting bracket kept coming loose and then driving over bumps it would turn everything off and on. Quite startiling at night on a deserted highway. Got tired of trying to keep it tightened so just took it off.
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A jump-post switch isolates some of the ce panel circuits, but not all. FI, fans on late cars, fuel pumps, abs, alternator, are not isolated by interrupting the circuit at the jump post.
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Triggers for the ezk and lh and fuel pump are disconnected when the jump post circuits re opened, so the engine will stop and lights will go out. There's still stuff connected to the battery.
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Seems that the 100A one is rated for 24V, or is it max 24V. http://catalog.hella.com/hauptschalt...atigung-3.html
It's been a long time since my engineering study days, but I do recall V=IxR. Does that mean that this switch has too much resistance for a 12V system?
I also found this nice switch, not sure I it will fit http://catalog.hella.com/hauptschalt...etatigung.html
It's been a long time since my engineering study days, but I do recall V=IxR. Does that mean that this switch has too much resistance for a 12V system?
I also found this nice switch, not sure I it will fit http://catalog.hella.com/hauptschalt...etatigung.html
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From: Helsinki, Finland
Aryan: that Hella switch as per your 1st link is fine and should "do the business".
As per my earlier post #24 of this thread: see this post for photo's and a PDF file of the bracket profile I made (idea fully copy-cat from Alan Moore): http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...82-post13.html
Good luck!
As per my earlier post #24 of this thread: see this post for photo's and a PDF file of the bracket profile I made (idea fully copy-cat from Alan Moore): http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...82-post13.html
Good luck!
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From: Phoenix AZ
The HELLA 002843011 switch is equally good for 12v or 24v @ up to 100A continuous and 1000A for 10 sec. Its a good choice here.
I made my bracket from heavy gauge aluminum stock - the switch will not come with one unless its a 'take-off' from say an Audi.
Alan
I made my bracket from heavy gauge aluminum stock - the switch will not come with one unless its a 'take-off' from say an Audi.
Alan