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Mounting a battery shut off switch.

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Old 09-16-2013, 02:34 AM
  #31  
Alan
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It is the terminal that connects to my power outlet in the hatch area. This one is both always on (not accessory power) and directly connected to the battery - even when the battery switch is off (hence the terminal its on). I use this for my mediuum current battery charger - of course with the battery isolated.

Alan
Old 09-16-2013, 03:39 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Alan
It is the terminal that connects to my power outlet in the hatch area. This one is both always on (not accessory power) and directly connected to the battery - even when the battery switch is off (hence the terminal its on). I use this for my mediuum current battery charger - of course with the battery isolated.

Alan
Thanks Alan. Makes sense now.

Scott.
Old 03-21-2014, 08:01 PM
  #33  
Leon Speed
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Hella has several types and ratings. For the one showed in Alan's and Dave H.'s pics, do I need the one rated for 50A or 100A?
Old 03-21-2014, 08:18 PM
  #34  
Alan
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Aryan - I'd get the 100A continuous, 1000A instantaneous (10 sec) version.

I also have used Blue Sea Systems HD battery switches - mainly as changeover switches on the positive side. I'm not sure one would fit there - they are quite large... however they are the nicest battery switches I've seen. Great easy changeover action, incredible ratings - looks good (but not as stealthy as the Hellas can be...).

Again unfortunately I don't think one would fit there (and they are about 3-4x the cost).

Alan
Old 03-21-2014, 09:30 PM
  #35  
RKD in OKC
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When I got my GTS it had a battery disconnect at the jump post. The only problem it caused was the poor mounting bracket kept coming loose and then driving over bumps it would turn everything off and on. Quite startiling at night on a deserted highway. Got tired of trying to keep it tightened so just took it off.
Old 03-21-2014, 11:21 PM
  #36  
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A jump-post switch isolates some of the ce panel circuits, but not all. FI, fans on late cars, fuel pumps, abs, alternator, are not isolated by interrupting the circuit at the jump post.
Old 03-21-2014, 11:34 PM
  #37  
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It isolated enough that the car died and all the lights went out.
Old 03-21-2014, 11:54 PM
  #38  
Alan
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Yes but from a safety point of view that doesn't mean much... and you already have switches that do that.

Alan
Old 03-22-2014, 01:11 AM
  #39  
dr bob
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Triggers for the ezk and lh and fuel pump are disconnected when the jump post circuits re opened, so the engine will stop and lights will go out. There's still stuff connected to the battery.
Old 03-22-2014, 04:28 AM
  #40  
Dave H.
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Originally Posted by Leon Speed
Thread resurection: where does the bracket come from??
the bracket came with the switch. then massaged to the right shape.
Old 03-22-2014, 08:09 AM
  #41  
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Seems that the 100A one is rated for 24V, or is it max 24V. http://catalog.hella.com/hauptschalt...atigung-3.html

It's been a long time since my engineering study days, but I do recall V=IxR. Does that mean that this switch has too much resistance for a 12V system?


I also found this nice switch, not sure I it will fit http://catalog.hella.com/hauptschalt...etatigung.html
Old 03-22-2014, 08:50 AM
  #42  
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Aryan: that Hella switch as per your 1st link is fine and should "do the business".

As per my earlier post #24 of this thread: see this post for photo's and a PDF file of the bracket profile I made (idea fully copy-cat from Alan Moore): http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...82-post13.html

Good luck!
Old 03-22-2014, 04:43 PM
  #43  
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Ok thanks Arnoud!
Old 03-22-2014, 05:06 PM
  #44  
Alan
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Originally Posted by Leon Speed
Seems that the 100A one is rated for 24V, or is it max 24V.
The HELLA 002843011 switch is equally good for 12v or 24v @ up to 100A continuous and 1000A for 10 sec. Its a good choice here.

I made my bracket from heavy gauge aluminum stock - the switch will not come with one unless its a 'take-off' from say an Audi.

Alan
Old 03-22-2014, 07:08 PM
  #45  
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Thanks Alan, I'm buying that switch.


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