Who-woo! Koenig engine lives..successful start after rebuild!
#1
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After countless hours of work, the engine in the Koeing car is finally back in, with many thanks to Darien for helping me lift it back.
I still have buttloads more work to do, but at least the motor fired right up, only took two tries to get it going.
Waiting for a new MAF to show up today, the old one was WAY out of wack, registered between 16.0-17.0 on the LM-1 - way too lean. Swapped MAF's with the S4 to verify its condition, idled much better. Ran everything up to operating temp, no leaks except for a few drops from a coolant sensor (now corrected).
Still have to install the fans, wiring, breather, etc, so the picture below is NOT done yet. Had to redo the external oil cooler and lines, which was a beyotch, made up custom brackets to fit it all securely.
Next job is to setup John Speak's Sharktuner with the 42# injectors. (thanks John!) Hopefully I'll get everything done in time for Sharktoberfest this year
I've been working on this thing late night for the past few days, I think my fingers are starting to get arthritis, but nothing a few beers won't handle!
For those that don't know, this motor is the one with the mix of different parts in it:
'88 block
GTS crank
Modified GTS pistons (bowled out to lower compression, which is ~9.3 : 1)
S4 Rods (5.0L)
Albrex S/C setup, about 6-7psi boost, no intercooler
Fueling originally was the stock 19# injectors, stock regulator, with the addition of a 9th injector located on the intake for extra fuel under boost. I never liked this setup, so it went bye-bye.
AND, for the laundry list of crap that was WRONG on this engine that I discovered and corrected. Whoever was into this motor before didn't know or pay attention to what the hell they were doing.
- thermostat oil spring missing
- Cam bearing bridges were ALL installed backwards on both heads (still fuming about that one)
- No flappy actuator, valve lever was frozen shut from all the powder coating
- Oil pan was severely warped from the huge weld spot under 2/6 bearing journal, didn't fit right.
- Pistons 1-4 installed upside down (but doesn't really matter since piston dimensions are identical)
- Some bozo used a chemical fire extinguisher at some point - that left some real nice residue on all the metal parts....lots of cheap-o spray paint on the block/head to hide all that corrosion to the aluminum.
- Oil cooler plugs on the block were overtightened, and destroyed threads on one hole, sealing surfaces on both. (have some nice shots of that one)
- lots of other little s#!%
Back to the garage, I'll post more pictures soon.
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Waiting for a new MAF to show up today, the old one was WAY out of wack, registered between 16.0-17.0 on the LM-1 - way too lean. Swapped MAF's with the S4 to verify its condition, idled much better. Ran everything up to operating temp, no leaks except for a few drops from a coolant sensor (now corrected).
Still have to install the fans, wiring, breather, etc, so the picture below is NOT done yet. Had to redo the external oil cooler and lines, which was a beyotch, made up custom brackets to fit it all securely.
Next job is to setup John Speak's Sharktuner with the 42# injectors. (thanks John!) Hopefully I'll get everything done in time for Sharktoberfest this year
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For those that don't know, this motor is the one with the mix of different parts in it:
'88 block
GTS crank
Modified GTS pistons (bowled out to lower compression, which is ~9.3 : 1)
S4 Rods (5.0L)
Albrex S/C setup, about 6-7psi boost, no intercooler
Fueling originally was the stock 19# injectors, stock regulator, with the addition of a 9th injector located on the intake for extra fuel under boost. I never liked this setup, so it went bye-bye.
AND, for the laundry list of crap that was WRONG on this engine that I discovered and corrected. Whoever was into this motor before didn't know or pay attention to what the hell they were doing.
- thermostat oil spring missing
- Cam bearing bridges were ALL installed backwards on both heads (still fuming about that one)
- No flappy actuator, valve lever was frozen shut from all the powder coating
- Oil pan was severely warped from the huge weld spot under 2/6 bearing journal, didn't fit right.
- Pistons 1-4 installed upside down (but doesn't really matter since piston dimensions are identical)
- Some bozo used a chemical fire extinguisher at some point - that left some real nice residue on all the metal parts....lots of cheap-o spray paint on the block/head to hide all that corrosion to the aluminum.
- Oil cooler plugs on the block were overtightened, and destroyed threads on one hole, sealing surfaces on both. (have some nice shots of that one)
- lots of other little s#!%
Back to the garage, I'll post more pictures soon.
#6
Race Car
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Originally Posted by Koenig928
For those that don't know, this motor is the one with the mix of different parts in it:
GTS crank
Modified GTS pistons (bowled out to lower compression, which is ~9.3 : 1)
S4 Rods (5.0L)
GTS crank
Modified GTS pistons (bowled out to lower compression, which is ~9.3 : 1)
S4 Rods (5.0L)
- Pistons 1-4 installed upside down (but doesn't really matter since piston dimensions are identical)
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#11
Nordschleife Master
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do you have ducting to get the the front of the oil cooler? Is there space for air to get to the front of it ? I need to replace my wheel well covers so i havent been in that area of the car yet.
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Originally Posted by SwayBar
What is the resultant deck-height while using the S4 rods with the GTS crank and pistons? I wasn't aware one could mix and match that way.
I know there is a wrist-pin offset on the S4 pistons which makes a difference in which way there are installed: one arrow points to the 'drive belts', and the other arrow points to the intake valves. Are the GTS pistons different in this regard?
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Originally Posted by whitefox
It looks beautiful, but why do you have so many mixed up colors in there? Purple, Red, blue?
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Originally Posted by Normy
That's quite an oil cooler setup. Where did you find those particular parts? I notice the fan is thermostatically controlled too, or is that an oil temperature probe?
Thats a temp sensor on the 3-way tee, it runs to a VDO guage inside. The fan is manually controled from a simple flip switch under the dash, so I have to watch the oil temp. I'd like to install an auto controller for that eventully.
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Originally Posted by RyanPerrella
do you have ducting to get the the front of the oil cooler? Is there space for air to get to the front of it ? I need to replace my wheel well covers so i havent been in that area of the car yet.