knotchy 5 sp
#1
Racer
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knotchy 5 sp
Looking for a gut check.
I recently had my 5 sp trans re-built including new syncros from 2-5 and one of the shift rods/forks repaired. I now notice in the morning the first shift into 2nd...takes some effort. It will definitely not go in first try but if I let the clutch out and back in again I can coax it in. After the first initial shift things seem good. Occasionally while cold, the car will be fussy about fully engaging first as well. All gears and function work very well once warm and the gears have been run though once.
So on to the question. Is this "normal" or am I making a return trip to the shop ?
I recently had my 5 sp trans re-built including new syncros from 2-5 and one of the shift rods/forks repaired. I now notice in the morning the first shift into 2nd...takes some effort. It will definitely not go in first try but if I let the clutch out and back in again I can coax it in. After the first initial shift things seem good. Occasionally while cold, the car will be fussy about fully engaging first as well. All gears and function work very well once warm and the gears have been run though once.
So on to the question. Is this "normal" or am I making a return trip to the shop ?
#2
Rest in Peace
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Which version of the G28 do you have?
Of the three 05's and two were rebuilt, the current 08 all have some knotchy feel depending on the time of day, temp., how well the driver can push the clutch completely in to disengage ... If it is a 10 or above, these should be the borgwarner converts. I would hope someone like Jim, Mark, Carl et al. could enlighten the forum more. I just know that I am betting the farm that my new 13 out of an 88S4 will give me shifting bliss!
PS I have an 05 and 08 for sale in the classifieds if anyone is interested or needing a spare.
Cheers,
PS I have an 05 and 08 for sale in the classifieds if anyone is interested or needing a spare.
Cheers,
#3
Three Wheelin'
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This is normal when cold on manual transmissions, which gear oil was used, I would use synthetic gear oil to minimize the cold shifting effort, make sure the clutch is adjusted properly.
#5
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Which version of the G28 do you have?
Not sure, can you decipher from the VIN or do i need to check the box? If so where would the name plate be located?
I'll try the syn. No notes on the bill on what they filled it with at the shop. Is the reccomend for Redline "NS"?? I have some 75W90 Castrol Syntech on the shelf but would need to order the Redline in.
The clutch is new (last year) and all other shifting works well but I'll re-review the adjusting procedures, but I think it's pretty good.
Not sure, can you decipher from the VIN or do i need to check the box? If so where would the name plate be located?
I'll try the syn. No notes on the bill on what they filled it with at the shop. Is the reccomend for Redline "NS"?? I have some 75W90 Castrol Syntech on the shelf but would need to order the Redline in.
The clutch is new (last year) and all other shifting works well but I'll re-review the adjusting procedures, but I think it's pretty good.
#6
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If box is original for your car it should be G28/10 for ROW model and /11 for US. These are first ones which use Borg Warner syncro design. 2nd should be easier to select when cold compared to earlier Porsche syncro boxes.
#7
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I have built a LOT of transmissions over the years. I suspect your clutch needs to be adjusted and did he mention anything about the shift dog sliders? There are three in the transmission and I suspect 2nd-3rd should have been replaced. Good gear oil helps, but isn't the cure all.
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#8
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If you only experience this shifting problem when cold, at operating temperature shifting is normal, it’s an oil viscosity/ clutch release cause and not a synchronizer/gear speed problem, if it were you will have the same condition when hot.
The Borg Warner synchronizers were introduced in 1985 with G28/10 transmissions, then in 1987 with the G28.12/13 transmissions there were more modifications, stronger case and gears/ 3mm wider, stronger input shaft, synchronizer from 911 Carrera were used. 1st/2nd and 3rd synchronizers were made of steel with molybdenum on the internal taper; this is the nom in today’s synchronizers. If you would a smooth shifting/ durable 5speed this is the one.
The Borg Warner synchronizers were introduced in 1985 with G28/10 transmissions, then in 1987 with the G28.12/13 transmissions there were more modifications, stronger case and gears/ 3mm wider, stronger input shaft, synchronizer from 911 Carrera were used. 1st/2nd and 3rd synchronizers were made of steel with molybdenum on the internal taper; this is the nom in today’s synchronizers. If you would a smooth shifting/ durable 5speed this is the one.
#9
928 Collector
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Originally Posted by RyanPerrella
try redline, or swepco in the transaxle, may make a noticeable difference
#11
Nordschleife Master
The easiest test for a poorly adjusted dual-plate clutch is going into reverse. If it grinds going into reverse (at a standstill, perfectionistas) then the intermediate plate needs adjustment.
I'd recommend using plain old dyno juice for the first thousand miles or until it's showing sufficient break-in progress. Could be just needing the new synchros worn down. Then go to to the synthetic juice. It'll take much longer to break in with the "good stuff" in there.
I would also go back to the shop and voice your concerns. Then say you're going to let it break in. At least you'll have laid the groundwork for a later discussion. They'll probably tell you to let it break-in anyways.
FWIW - I had my early tranny re-built (-03?) years ago. Has never felt right. Clutch is A-OK. Doesn't like going into first (no grinding, just doesn't go) and going down from fifth to fourth is a problem. Oh, well. Seems like the factory skill isn't replicated in the field.
I'd recommend using plain old dyno juice for the first thousand miles or until it's showing sufficient break-in progress. Could be just needing the new synchros worn down. Then go to to the synthetic juice. It'll take much longer to break in with the "good stuff" in there.
I would also go back to the shop and voice your concerns. Then say you're going to let it break in. At least you'll have laid the groundwork for a later discussion. They'll probably tell you to let it break-in anyways.
FWIW - I had my early tranny re-built (-03?) years ago. Has never felt right. Clutch is A-OK. Doesn't like going into first (no grinding, just doesn't go) and going down from fifth to fourth is a problem. Oh, well. Seems like the factory skill isn't replicated in the field.
#12
Nordschleife Master
heinrich,
Yeah as for swepco i have enver used it, but i know its supposed to be the be all end all for late 915 911 transaxles. I personally use redline and think its great.
i also thought you could need a clutch adjustment, maybe to just adjust the pick-up point with the pedal.
Yeah as for swepco i have enver used it, but i know its supposed to be the be all end all for late 915 911 transaxles. I personally use redline and think its great.
i also thought you could need a clutch adjustment, maybe to just adjust the pick-up point with the pedal.
#13
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Originally Posted by Steve Cattaneo
... <snip> ... The Borg Warner synchronizers were introduced in 1985 with G28/10 transmissions, then in 1987 with the G28.12/13 transmissions there were more modifications, stronger case and gears/ 3mm wider, stronger input shaft, synchronizer from 911 Carrera were used. 1st/2nd and 3rd synchronizers were made of steel with molybdenum on the internal taper; this is the nom in today’s synchronizers. If you would a smooth shifting/ durable 5speed this is the one.
Cheers,
#14
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by Andre Hedrick
Steve, you are making me happy with my investment of time and money in waiting to find my G28/13 ... now off the the shop of the upgrade to be installed!
Cheers,
Cheers,
Manual are fun to drive, but on a long trips and serious HP I prefer an automatic, manuals cant take the toque like automatics can, auto shifts faster, and you are always connected to the engine. My MB AMG with the speed shift program has lightning shifts.
#15
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The clutch packs were replaced last year but the intermediate plate indicated very little wear so it was re-used and adjusted at that time ( by myself). Since the car is wintered indoors and only driven in the summer, I have very few miles on it ( < 6,000).
I'll call the shop tomorrow and see what they say and just carefully shift in the mornings for now and see what they say. The reason for the R&R was unable to select 4th gear with out grinding..all else worked fine. It now goes into 4th any time anywhere but the 1/2 issues showed up .........
I'll call the shop tomorrow and see what they say and just carefully shift in the mornings for now and see what they say. The reason for the R&R was unable to select 4th gear with out grinding..all else worked fine. It now goes into 4th any time anywhere but the 1/2 issues showed up .........