Matt, John, et al...

I'm helping Matt with the car, let me add some tidbits:
-No leaks at the regs/dampers.
-swapped EZF was of NO help.
-swapped MAF is of NO help.

So far I've fixed multiple vac leaks, connected/ reaffirmed injector wire harness grounds, tightened 3-4 leaky injector clamps, swapped TII w/ known good one, swapped fp and LH relays, Matt says he verified timing marks on cams and checked dual distributor belt/alignment, charged battery and verified batt cable contacts, Matt replaced a fubar'd CPS, verified spark from both coils, and a ****load more.

I contend that it is an electrical issue.

Car will start fine with the fuel pump relay UNconnected, until fuel is burned then it will die. Plugging in fp relay results in car cranking but NOT starting. IF I start car w/o relay, then insert relay car dies instantly.

My two questions are:
1)why does inserting the fp relay kill the motor? There is +12v at term 30, +12v at 86 on cranking. Jumpering relay 30-87 allows pump to run. Is the relay shorting out the LH signal somehow, I wonder...
2)this is directed more to John Speak... what type of running conditions may I expect if I use an 86 LH brain in place of the 84 euro box? Will it run lean, rich, etc...?????????????????????

 

hi Scott

1)I guess inserting the FPR into a running motor is just flooding it ? Can you put a 'scope or even a light on the injector feeds ? On the side that goes to the LH,where it is grounded for the injector pulse by the LH. Connect other side of lamp to ground. With ign on, and FPR in place, you should get the lamp on and 12v on the injectors.

When engine cranks the lamp should flash, but more on than off.

2) MY Euro ran pretty much as standard when I swapped a US LH into it. Certainly not very rich or very weak. I just ran the car for a mile or two.

 

John;

I had the car starting and idling awesome (briefly) with the 86 LH. Matt said it was the best it has ever idled. But giving it throttle made it pop, but more like an ign. type of breakup.

I don't have a noid light but I'll try the test lamp on the LH.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I still can't help thinking of that alarm scenario I had last week. My own curiosity is really starting to get the best of me here. Matt, I know you say you don't have an alarm, but would you be willing to humor a complete stranger and just try putting a 53 relay in the top left position on the fuseboard and then attempt to start the car again? If you triggered one of your friends' alarms, and then tried to start the car, it would probably behave the same exact way. I dunno, it's just a feeling I have that won't quit. If you do it and it doesn't help, I promise I'll shut up and never bother you again. LOL.
I'll be keeping my fingers crossed for ya!
Kevin
1984 Euro S2 Auto

 

Hi Scott,
There may be more than one thing wrong then.....so swapping one item at a time is giving misleading results. My Euro ran fine with a US LH. No pops...

 

Update: (since Matt hasn't...)

Problem solved.
My tester MAF was bad, making it run hellaciously rich.
A mismatched connector was shorting out the (3rd) TII sensor. Wasn't me!!
Cleaned plugs, tightened loose connectors, and now it's purring like a Lion.

Now if I can just get Matt to drag the dang thing home so I can move on to other projects.

 

I was going to wait until it actually moved under its own power to update... Hopefully that's next week after the extra gas has been removed from the oil pan.