Gas Cap Locked LOL
08-31-2006, 12:22 AM
#31
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Alan
Joe - pretty soon Hienrich will have some gas cap parts you may be interested in... 
I can walk you through how to replace that part... BTDT
The hardest part is getting the red cover off the central white part - I was convinced I would bust it - but it eventually did come free.
Note - some one should make a special 3 prong tool to get the cover off ! I was almost at the point of trying to design one...
Alan
I can walk you through how to replace that part... BTDTThe hardest part is getting the red cover off the central white part - I was convinced I would bust it - but it eventually did come free.
Note - some one should make a special 3 prong tool to get the cover off ! I was almost at the point of trying to design one...
Alan
08-31-2006, 02:38 AM
#32
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joe - if the key rotates in the lock normally but it always ratchets anyway - it isn't the key its the busted little nylon part... however - never fear H has one!
Alan
Alan
08-31-2006, 03:03 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
Usually when the nylon part breaks, the cap becomes unlockable, always able to be opened. Have not seen a failure mode that prevents opening. I guess if the nylon pawl jammed in the locked position it would do this....but the spring is pretty strong - thats why they break...
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k.
08-31-2006, 04:20 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
Sorry Alan, you are quite right about the tumblers and the core being retained by the red part, apologies.
See the pic. From the outer edge of red to white is ~1/8". the edge of red is ~1/8" then to the groove you can see radial braces is at least another 1/8", so drilling 3/8" in from edge of red should place you above the groove, and engaging one of the braces should enable you to lock the two together. on the left is an intact and a broken pawl, and the fearsome spring. The inside bottom of the white part has the teeth that the pawl engages when its unlocked.The tumbler at the back shows the C clip holding the tumbler/lock assy together . It also has a home made pawl peeping out - carbon fibre/epoxy matrix, and a somewhat softer spring. The spring is a compromise between likely to break the pawl, but strong enough to NOT allow the pawl to ratchet when trying to undo the cap. The red part has 3 barbs about 1" wide, which you have to persaude over the lip of the inner to dismantle it. Best way I found to dismantle- mount a dowel about 3/4" dia vertically in a vice ; sit the cap upside down on the end of the lock face; wrestle with lifting the cap barbs over the inner lip (4 hands and cursing), and when they come free, the pressure of the dowel on the lock will push the inner out of the outer, and you are done.
jp
See the pic. From the outer edge of red to white is ~1/8". the edge of red is ~1/8" then to the groove you can see radial braces is at least another 1/8", so drilling 3/8" in from edge of red should place you above the groove, and engaging one of the braces should enable you to lock the two together. on the left is an intact and a broken pawl, and the fearsome spring. The inside bottom of the white part has the teeth that the pawl engages when its unlocked.The tumbler at the back shows the C clip holding the tumbler/lock assy together . It also has a home made pawl peeping out - carbon fibre/epoxy matrix, and a somewhat softer spring. The spring is a compromise between likely to break the pawl, but strong enough to NOT allow the pawl to ratchet when trying to undo the cap. The red part has 3 barbs about 1" wide, which you have to persaude over the lip of the inner to dismantle it. Best way I found to dismantle- mount a dowel about 3/4" dia vertically in a vice ; sit the cap upside down on the end of the lock face; wrestle with lifting the cap barbs over the inner lip (4 hands and cursing), and when they come free, the pressure of the dowel on the lock will push the inner out of the outer, and you are done.
jp
Last edited by jpitman2; 08-31-2006 at 04:41 AM.
08-31-2006, 09:55 AM
#35
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
looks as if one could PULL that red cap off there with a hook .... But I suspect if one simply drilled a hole anywhere one could engage the white and turn it .. thank you SO MUCH JP for the pic.
08-31-2006, 11:00 AM
#36
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Hah! "Pull the red cap off with a hook"
So speaks a man who has never tried it ---- this is a bear to get off (especialy if you want to preserve it in pristine condition). As JP says you need about 3 pairs of hands and a few people to help you swear at it....
Alan
So speaks a man who has never tried it ---- this is a bear to get off (especialy if you want to preserve it in pristine condition). As JP says you need about 3 pairs of hands and a few people to help you swear at it....
Alan
08-31-2006, 12:05 PM
#37
Rennlist Member
Bump,
[QUOTE=neilh]H, had almost the same problem, lock was broken.
If you drill a hole in exactly the right place on the face of the lock, screw in a self tapping screw, and turn the cap, it will come off.
in the picture you can see where I drilled the top cap and inserted the screw to lock both together and get the cap off. I believe jp's picture confirms the location as good!
[QUOTE=neilh]H, had almost the same problem, lock was broken.
If you drill a hole in exactly the right place on the face of the lock, screw in a self tapping screw, and turn the cap, it will come off.
in the picture you can see where I drilled the top cap and inserted the screw to lock both together and get the cap off. I believe jp's picture confirms the location as good!
08-31-2006, 04:04 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
IIRC, I did it with a Channellock crushing the outside and inside together. Can't remember whether it destroyed the outer cap or not, I think it did.
08-31-2006, 08:44 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
While the red part is tough, I think you would destroy it trying to pull it off, or damage something else along the way. Careful drilling JUST through the red WILL do it for you. Then I suggest you rekey the cap to match the door/ignition/hatch. The cap and the hatch have fewer moving blades (dont know correct name?) than the other locks IIRC.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
08-31-2006, 10:12 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by heinrich
LOL ... no sweat thanks to you guys - note the scratches on the white part 
Congrats, now go fill up on the cheap (LOL) gas this weekend!
Neil