MM/gasket/rack - should I go for Rod Bearings too?
08-22-2006, 03:06 PM
#16
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As John said about the "bolts." I did mean nuts, sorry for the confusion.
John's explanation reminded me of the tapping on the rod bolts to loosen them from the bottom half. Nothing too hard about this whole procedure, just take your time and keep things clean. I did use generic engine assembly lube but I would default to what John said. He has much more experience in this game.
As far as OE amd OEM rod bearings, I went with Porsche OE for peace of mind. I have noticed differences between other OE and OEM parts in the past, even when parts came from the same manufacturer. Price difference between the two was negligible for me at that point. Would still be for something this important.
Cheers,
Constantine
John's explanation reminded me of the tapping on the rod bolts to loosen them from the bottom half. Nothing too hard about this whole procedure, just take your time and keep things clean. I did use generic engine assembly lube but I would default to what John said. He has much more experience in this game.
As far as OE amd OEM rod bearings, I went with Porsche OE for peace of mind. I have noticed differences between other OE and OEM parts in the past, even when parts came from the same manufacturer. Price difference between the two was negligible for me at that point. Would still be for something this important.
Cheers,
Constantine
08-22-2006, 03:54 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
If you decide to do this, I would rotate the crank around 360 degrees after each rod cap. That way, if there is a problem with rotating the motor over due to something binding, you will know which rod caused the problem. If you do them all and you have a problem, it will be hard to pinpoint which rod is causing a problem. I know this is a pain rotating the motor over by yourself--a helper would be really nice on this. Any Moly-type assembly lube from Autozone or whatever will work for the initial start-up. I would run the oil maybe four or five hundred miles and then change the oil and filter.
Mike
1987 S4 Auto
Mike
1987 S4 Auto
08-22-2006, 04:03 PM
#18
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Another great point! I did this during my assembly and was very glad since the clearance is very tight and the bolts did make contact with the crank a few times. Thankfully I had placed rubber hose over the bolts beforehand. You don't want to scratch the crank journals!
Good stuff!
Constantine
Good stuff!
Constantine
Originally Posted by SMTCapeCod
If you really want to be careful, andif you have difficulty getting clearance to remove the bolts- get some hose on-hand and slide it over the bolts before pushing the piston up into the bore so there is no chance of metal-metal contact..
