Hatch Receiver Clear Plastic Insert ??
#16
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I fought my dang hatch for 4 years trying to get it to open reliably...every way listed on Rennlist...and it never did work properly..every time...until I bought a whole new lower assembly...with the white plastic piece from Jim at 928 International. Just over a $100 w/shipping but I spent more than a $100 worth of my time dinking with it before. Wish I'd purchased it earlier when it was cheaper. It's not a required piece but it's dang nice to have it work since so many don't.
Harvey
Harvey
#17
I fabricated a couple of prototype molds a few years back for the company I worked for just to check rough function. I used wood, plastics and metal to build them and only one had a slide all of them used draft to ease release. They were not very complex but the results were perfect. I do remember that most of the supplies can be purchased in small amounts just for this type of work. The mixing gun would be the only thing that would be hard to get, but if you can get by without a high pressure shoot the whole operation would be cheep..
#21
I can't believe I'm reading this. My car doesn't have this plastic item and I never realised there was anything missing until now! Despite hours of work with adjustments and home-made shims etc the release mechanism has never worked properly and now I know why. Doh!
Colin. 89GT
Colin. 89GT
#22
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Alan,
The new ones are clear and they yellow with age. I just replaced the whole reciever as well as the nylon bushing on the hatch. I figured after 26 years, it was worth replacing. The whole thing was shot and I could not keep the hatch shut until I jammed a rag in there and slammed it to take up the slack. This was after I had "premature ehatchulation" and deployed my rear hatch on our 3rd coast tour last year at 80mph! It was like Maverick on Top Gun, "I'll put on the brakes and he'll fly right by me!"
BTW anonymous, if you need a used one, Roger Tyson here in the DFW club has several parts cars and I'm sure he'll let one go on the cheap. Give him a PM.
The new ones are clear and they yellow with age. I just replaced the whole reciever as well as the nylon bushing on the hatch. I figured after 26 years, it was worth replacing. The whole thing was shot and I could not keep the hatch shut until I jammed a rag in there and slammed it to take up the slack. This was after I had "premature ehatchulation" and deployed my rear hatch on our 3rd coast tour last year at 80mph! It was like Maverick on Top Gun, "I'll put on the brakes and he'll fly right by me!"
BTW anonymous, if you need a used one, Roger Tyson here in the DFW club has several parts cars and I'm sure he'll let one go on the cheap. Give him a PM.
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
thanks Chuck, appreciate the help. I'm still on the fence for what direction I want to go. Only have 56k on the car, so the mechanism works perfect, just that the bushing has yielded to time. Likely try the Oring around the top recess first, to see if it'll take out the little bit of slack.
#25
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OK next challenge - make a replica plastic thingy.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#27
It aint the miles, it's the years, figure a way to stop the aging process, then go back in time and apply your solution, but I think you need to be in the Delorean Forum to discuss time travel!!!
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Fixed, thanks to good 'ol Home Depot.
Quickest: Picked up #18 Orings from the faucet section and slid it over the upper lock as far as it will go. 10second job and no more rattle!
Not sure how long the Oring will last, although it appears to receive only squish impact, so I suspect a long time. Besides, the $2.xx pack includes 6, iirc, so there are 5 spares. The Oring was satisfactory to stop the noise, but I still wanted a "tighter" hatch, as it still felt a teeny-tiny bit loose to me...
Still quite Quick: ~5in of .125 blk screen welt (the guy let me have a "sample" for comparison to my screen at home ) and some superglue.The welt goes around the top of the receiver in the notched area. Great thing is that it binds behind the two little posts adjacent the lock striker. Make sure you fit the length before using the glue, then starting at one end wedged behind the post, superglue/walk it around the perimeter to the other post and wedge that end behind the other post.
I couldn't detect any impedence to the lock functionality and now the hatch is quiet and snug!
BTW - can someone change the Title to "Fixed" so others can see it. TX
Quickest: Picked up #18 Orings from the faucet section and slid it over the upper lock as far as it will go. 10second job and no more rattle!
Not sure how long the Oring will last, although it appears to receive only squish impact, so I suspect a long time. Besides, the $2.xx pack includes 6, iirc, so there are 5 spares. The Oring was satisfactory to stop the noise, but I still wanted a "tighter" hatch, as it still felt a teeny-tiny bit loose to me...
Still quite Quick: ~5in of .125 blk screen welt (the guy let me have a "sample" for comparison to my screen at home ) and some superglue.The welt goes around the top of the receiver in the notched area. Great thing is that it binds behind the two little posts adjacent the lock striker. Make sure you fit the length before using the glue, then starting at one end wedged behind the post, superglue/walk it around the perimeter to the other post and wedge that end behind the other post.
I couldn't detect any impedence to the lock functionality and now the hatch is quiet and snug!
BTW - can someone change the Title to "Fixed" so others can see it. TX
Last edited by anonymousagain; 08-24-2006 at 06:36 PM.
#29
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by neilh
If you are not worried about 'authentic', then this works fine.
The receiver has a recess at the top that is about 4 mm wide and 4mm deep.
Go by home depot and check out the 'O' ring drawer for a 4 - 5mm thick by about 50mm dia (IIRC) - measure the perimeter of the slot to make sure.
Make a single cut in it so you open it out.
Clean the receiver slot with iso-prop alcohol or similar.
Working alonq each side in turn, super glue the O ring into the grove.
When its in place and glue is set, grease it on the top and inside edges.
worked for me, still does.
Neil
The receiver has a recess at the top that is about 4 mm wide and 4mm deep.
Go by home depot and check out the 'O' ring drawer for a 4 - 5mm thick by about 50mm dia (IIRC) - measure the perimeter of the slot to make sure.
Make a single cut in it so you open it out.
Clean the receiver slot with iso-prop alcohol or similar.
Working alonq each side in turn, super glue the O ring into the grove.
When its in place and glue is set, grease it on the top and inside edges.
worked for me, still does.
Neil
RE : BTW - can someone change the Title to "Fixed" so others can see it. TX
Just go back to your original post, you can edit it there!
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Neil --> You're absolutely right and definitely get the Propeller-Head award and full credit for the idea !!
BTW, I did edit the 1st post title, but it doesn't show on the Main Thread Title ??
BTW, I did edit the 1st post title, but it doesn't show on the Main Thread Title ??