Rob Edwards

One example is shown here: Motion Pro #08-0029 wrench It works well but is thin, so wear some heavy work gloves while pushing on it. Also, it doesn't exactly fit the rear adjuster on my 90 GT's Boges, though the 'tooth' is secure in the holes on the ajduster.

928 Specialists also lists one that has a nicer looking handle, yet half the price. Never seen this one in action

Finally, Dr. Bob has a set of three which ratchet- I think he said were Harbor Freight but I've not been able to find them there. They were really cool, although the handles were shorter and thus a bit of a workout.

As far as measuring ride height, I also took a page from the Dr. Bob book and whipped these sticks up out of coat hanger. Total cost: about $0.07, plus dry cleaning.....

Normy

Did you know that the Kawasaki ZX-11 that your buddy owns and your 928 have one or two similar genes? Here's an example of one of them: Both rides need this wrench to adjust their spring perches, available at a motorcycle shop near you. If you go to a Harley shop, remember to wear a black T-shirt.

Another sage advice: Wear gloves when using this tool. Your hands will be skinless if you don't! Those perches are HARD to turn! Squirt some oil on them prior to trying this.

N!

dr bob

The wrenches I use are genuine Harbor Freight tools. Set of four sizes was about $15 IIRC. Sold in a box, with a plastic roll-up pouch. The wrences have pivot pins in the midle that make them tolerant of a larger array of ring diameters. In my opinion, they work better than the rigid ones like the Motion Pro. I can go get the part no if you folks need it.

No matter which wrench you use, get the crud and the undercoating off the threads before you even try to move them. A generous dosage of spray lubricant will make your arms and hands a little less uncomfortable, especially if you do the adjustments with the suspension fully loaded. You'll still end up driving the car some between twists on the rings. The whole thing is an ioterative process, especially considering that the measuring spots aren't between the tires but are fore or aft of them.

tomcat

Oldtee told me that this spanner wrench is a common bicycle tool. It's not as long as the one Normy is showing, but who doesn't have a bicycle shop. But these aren't too strong and will bend. Going out to get a few more - including a new one for Oldtee.

In a older thread RE: ride height, there were some great ideas on how to measure ride height fromt he factory spots under he car. I think the best one was a telescoping device like an old radio antenna (or one of those magnetic telescoping rods).

wds928

I used a garbage disposal wrench. Available at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.

dr bob

The Harbor Freight tools I have are in set 41243, which of course does not show up at a search at their website. I went through this before when I bought them-- No listing on the website but found them at the local store (Pasadena, Ca). They were in and out of stock there, and they happened to be there one time when I was actually thinking of doing the work so I grabbed them. I had previously been using a less elegant spanner that was a bit too small, but still did the job with a fight.

If you happen to be near a Harbor Freight store, you may be able to locate these. It may also be worthwhile to ask at the store, since there is an obvious disconnect between what they offer there and what's on the website.

SteveG

What Richard S said, the coat hanger sticks look like a great idea, too, anything that helps you measure from a prone position in a dark cramped location, etc. If you have to make adjustments, you have to let it drive/settle after each lift of the tires, so it may take a couple rounds before you get it. Can be a PIA, esp if doing all 4 corners.

Fogey1

tomcat wrote: "... Went out to check ride height before getting the tires mounted and found my ride height to be 1.5 - 2 inches low in the front and back."

The measuring points are easy to reach by lying down and reaching under and in. There are many ways to measure. I tried pointers and coat hanger sticks and worryied about not getting them exactly vertical. Tthe points are easy to reach but hard to see at the same time and a tilt to the stick will change the height measurement - think about the height of a triangle.

I finally used a carpenter's angle finder to take the height (one side can be flat on the ground) and then measured the height with a ruled square after I'd removed it. It worked a treat.

When I got my car it was at 124mmF and 128mmR. I figure that's why I wiped an alternator off on the road.

I'm lucky I kept my compressor and block.

John Struthers

Why, pray tell does the WSM advise us to have:
1. The proper - or at least static/the pressure you plan to live with - air pressure in our tires.
2. The approximate weight of driverloading in the drivers seat. (Why no avg. pass. weight in the Pass. seat?)
3. The proper ride height measured from the duly identified measuring points.
Not to unload the suspension unless You have the Porsche 'loading tool' that will keep the sHARk at recommended ride height during the alignment.
I believe there is a reference to springs, shocks, links, balljoints etc... made somewhere as well.
Prior to performing the alignment.
Was gibt's?

gruffalo

True, but you can somewhat compensate for that by moving the rack accordingly. I think the late Erik in Denmark had a thread on this subject.

MM