Question on Valve Cover preperation prior to Powder Coating
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Question on Valve Cover preperation prior to Powder Coating
I have removed valve covers intake on my early 86 to powder coat, R & R all vacume lines, clean up valley, injector rebuilding from Cruizin etc.
Two powder coaters here in LA say that the valve covers are too porus, will out gas and the resulting powder coat finish not be satisfactory. One refused to work on the pieces after they did a sample intake tube that outgassed and created a couple of very small bubbles (smaller then a pin point) that I had no problem with. He did. The valve covers have defects / metal flaking. See photo.
Questions:
1. Can I grind the imperfections in the valve cover smooth prior to coating?
2. Can I heat up and outgas the covers and intake myself then take to another power coater?
3. Any powder coaters in the San Fernando Valley area any of you can steer me towards that have some experience on this tyupe of Porsche casting?
Any advice appreciated
Pete L
Sherman Oaks CA
1986 5 Speed, black black
Two powder coaters here in LA say that the valve covers are too porus, will out gas and the resulting powder coat finish not be satisfactory. One refused to work on the pieces after they did a sample intake tube that outgassed and created a couple of very small bubbles (smaller then a pin point) that I had no problem with. He did. The valve covers have defects / metal flaking. See photo.
Questions:
1. Can I grind the imperfections in the valve cover smooth prior to coating?
2. Can I heat up and outgas the covers and intake myself then take to another power coater?
3. Any powder coaters in the San Fernando Valley area any of you can steer me towards that have some experience on this tyupe of Porsche casting?
Any advice appreciated
Pete L
Sherman Oaks CA
1986 5 Speed, black black
Last edited by Pete L; 01-05-2011 at 05:08 PM.
#2
A search will give you numerous threads on intake powder coating and recommentation. Other then the shipping costs is there a reason it has to be local? I think you want someone who has done other 928's. 928 Motorsports did mine a few years ago.
#3
Some will outgas badly even if you pre bake... I think that there are painting techniques that will do a better job. I have heard that blasting it right before painting/coating is better as it knockes of the weaker oxidized surface. If you let it sit the surface will darken and painting or coating this may not be as effective... If I had it to do over I would have tried to strip them myself and paint them with a heat resisitant paint. As is mine were powder coated and did show some outgassing... It is not terrible but is noticeable...
I would paint with something that you can heat gently to cure... like 150f max
I think that powder coat is baked to like 400F that is why it outgasses...
watch the surfaces that you don't want coated. I would opt against coating the sealing surface or the insides of things...
LO
I would paint with something that you can heat gently to cure... like 150f max
I think that powder coat is baked to like 400F that is why it outgasses...
watch the surfaces that you don't want coated. I would opt against coating the sealing surface or the insides of things...
LO
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Pete-
Powdercoating: Applied Powder Vic Anselmo (805) 981-1991 2350 Santiago Court Oxnard
From the SoCal928 board recommended vendors list. Oxnard is a bit of a drive from Sherman Oaks, less than an hour though. This vendor has done 928 parts for several cars in the area.
I have no direct experience with them, just passing on the recommendations of others.
HTH!
Powdercoating: Applied Powder Vic Anselmo (805) 981-1991 2350 Santiago Court Oxnard
From the SoCal928 board recommended vendors list. Oxnard is a bit of a drive from Sherman Oaks, less than an hour though. This vendor has done 928 parts for several cars in the area.
I have no direct experience with them, just passing on the recommendations of others.
HTH!
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Update:
Thanks to all who responded, Dr. Bob, LO and Greg.
I ground the flaking and imperfections in the valve covers with my air grinder tool. I found a powder coater in Van Nuys, WAAG, who is going to bead blast the covers again to even out the finish where I ground out the flaking and imperfections then bake at 300 degrees for one hour to outgas. He will inspect the parts afer this out gassing, clean up the parts, and if need be re-bake. He is then going to powder coat with a metalic silver. Cost is $200.
I get the intake and valve covers back from WAAG on Friday and will post photos of the finished product
Thanks to all who responded, Dr. Bob, LO and Greg.
I ground the flaking and imperfections in the valve covers with my air grinder tool. I found a powder coater in Van Nuys, WAAG, who is going to bead blast the covers again to even out the finish where I ground out the flaking and imperfections then bake at 300 degrees for one hour to outgas. He will inspect the parts afer this out gassing, clean up the parts, and if need be re-bake. He is then going to powder coat with a metalic silver. Cost is $200.
I get the intake and valve covers back from WAAG on Friday and will post photos of the finished product
#6
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Thanks Pete--
We are always looking for stuff like this. Be sure to ask him if he will do more sets for the same price. There are several in the rae who are thinking of this as a fall project. Three of us so far I think.
We are always looking for stuff like this. Be sure to ask him if he will do more sets for the same price. There are several in the rae who are thinking of this as a fall project. Three of us so far I think.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Results from POwder Coating 86 intake, valve covers and Fuel Rails
Got the powder coated pieces back from WAAG located in Van Nuys CA near the airport. I am happy with the results except for "t" piece that out gassed and has some small pin sized bubbles. This does not bother me and Mike the Owner or WAAG did warn me about it in advance. Suppose more pre baking was in order but bottom line is I am happy with the results. Cost was $75 for the initial bead/sand blasting and $200 for the powder coating
Last edited by Pete L; 01-05-2011 at 05:08 PM.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
I wonder if just simply painting isnt the best way to go now honestly. It seems a few people have had covers come back with bubbles. Powder coating is worth the price as its allot more durable than paint. Thats the only reason. You have fewer finish choices with powder coating although there are allot. I wonder if its better to just use your basic paint for intakes and cam covers now, its certianly cheaper, Its all of course a matter of how durable the painted ones end up being, we all seem to have original porsche ones that were painted that flake like crazy, but maybe you just repaint every 10 years, who knows, powdercoating the very porus alu/mag components dosent seem to be the clear cut winner here unfortunately.
#9
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Originally Posted by lorenolson888
I would paint with something that you can heat gently to cure... like 150f max
I think that powder coat is baked to like 400F that is why it outgasses...
LO
I think that powder coat is baked to like 400F that is why it outgasses...
LO
what would you recommend then as coat?
#10
a good temperature resisitant paint...
you can even get some stuff in a can that handles up to 500F
some people have done wrinkle paints and they look nice... I wonder how well it hold up?
you can even get some stuff in a can that handles up to 500F
some people have done wrinkle paints and they look nice... I wonder how well it hold up?