Torque tube swap was succesful, but I still have a rattle.
08-04-2006, 12:05 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I took the car out again yesterday and I was wrong about the RPM not going past 1000. I must not have been flooring the gas or something the night before. Anyway, the RPM's would go up to about 1500 or so according to the dash tach. If I let off the brake ever so slightly, the back tires would light up and produce copious quantity's of white tire smoke. I don't have positraction (Code 220), but if i'm pointed straight on an even road surface, it will lay down two patches of black. So, scratch my previous post/concerns regarding the one way sprag.
Mike
1987 S4 Auto
Mike
1987 S4 Auto
07-25-2011, 04:34 PM
#33
Thanks
Last edited by mj1pate; 07-25-2011 at 05:06 PM.
07-26-2011, 01:10 PM
#34
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Washington "Dc"
Posts: 1,810
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Grr I was reading this with interest, I have the same problem. was thinking it was torque tube but of course its probably much more devious than that. I see torque converter bearing replacement in my future 
07-26-2011, 05:20 PM
#35
Former Vendor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The driveline in a 928 has a few problem areas already discussed in this thread.
Most rear flex plates attached to the torque converter were actually made of two plates riveted together. The rivets have been known to loosen and rattle at different RPM ranges and loads. The fix was to drill out the rivets and replace them with nuts and bolts.
The rear coupler if not tightend correctly or placed onto the drive shaft improperly, can also make rattling sounds under operation.
The torque tube bearings can fail and cause bad sounds and vibrations.
Bad torque converter bearings can also make bad sounds, but usually not rattling noises.
HTH,
Most rear flex plates attached to the torque converter were actually made of two plates riveted together. The rivets have been known to loosen and rattle at different RPM ranges and loads. The fix was to drill out the rivets and replace them with nuts and bolts.
The rear coupler if not tightend correctly or placed onto the drive shaft improperly, can also make rattling sounds under operation.
The torque tube bearings can fail and cause bad sounds and vibrations.
Bad torque converter bearings can also make bad sounds, but usually not rattling noises.
HTH,
