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Smog pump removal

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Old 07-26-2006, 11:44 AM
  #16  
Bus
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Originally Posted by DFWX
Any other suggests how to delete without removal or going to electric fans. I have the small belt stretched over the pulleys (therefore no tensioner) - but it slides too much as to overheat in rush hour traffic on these extremely hot days - and even if it is not too hot out, but just stuck idling along at 7 mph on the freeway. The small belt over the pulley worked even on a 1000 mile trip, but does not work in the Texas summer.
Mark
I have an '80 with a tensioning idler instead of a smog pump. I also had a spare engine with one on it too.. If you install one of those, you could have the tension and thus the fan drive.

I don't know if this is normal, but the bearings in both of mine are dry. They spin fine, but they make a noise I can hear when outside while the car is running. I've been planning on pressing the bracket apart, getting a bearing, and replacing it... but haven't done it yet... maybe next week.
Old 07-26-2006, 12:09 PM
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Loaded
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has ANYBODY tried using a dry lubricant to quiet or tune one up? Lithium/ Graphite etc.
KNowing a little about lubricants I can believe somebody hasnt tried to FOG or DUST/ the intake hose with some Graphite to keep one quiet. Barring a total baearing failure most noise is caused by the blades.
Old 07-26-2006, 03:35 PM
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DFWX
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I read somewhere that a "tension idler" was offered at one time for a whooping $250. The problem I am facing is that it looks like a nightmare to get the old one out and new one in without a lot of disassembly - meaning I'm fairly lazy on just maintenance stuff, particularly when I do not want or neat the smog pump anyway other than to tension the belt that runs the cooling fan.
If I were installing a motor, then I could fab up a tensioner.
A shop where I'm at suggested making a simple plate to go behind the bracket for the fan pulley, and then slot out a 2nd set of the 3 holes so that it could be slide up half an inch or so to tighten the belt as there is enough room in the fan shroud to lift it that much. That is one of those sounds simple, but is not so easy to do ideas. All I'm trying to do is figure how to tension the belt or how to actually remove and replace the air pump. Do I pull fender/wheel wells? What all do I have to remove first before getting to the air pump?
It's an 84 auto.
Mark O
Old 07-26-2006, 05:08 PM
  #19  
John Speake
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My Euro S2 has a smog pump (since removed and short belt used for ther visco fan)

AFAIK also Euro cars had the smog pump .....
Old 07-26-2006, 05:37 PM
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killingmoon65
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I too removed my smog pump and simply plugged up the large hose coming from it. Now my engine runs hotter as well in traffic. Should I have left it open? Mine is a 1978 and I'm not sure if it was an original pump as the car was exported to Canada.
Old 07-26-2006, 05:57 PM
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zoltan944
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In my 85, I chopped off the belt, removed the big *** heavy clutch fan and wired in an e-fan.
Old 07-26-2006, 10:12 PM
  #22  
SMTCapeCod
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Hm...I'll be darned, it does talk about overheating the intake...and that doing so would effect CO values.... Maybe they wrote this page during Oktoberfest..
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Old 07-26-2006, 11:37 PM
  #23  
G Man
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Sharkskin has a good writeup on removing the pump. I did mine and it is actually pretty easy to do. I removed my air pump, took it apart and removed the "guts". Bought some new bearings at the local NAPA and reassembled without the guts and put it back in. Works great and I'm able to use the stock belt, and tension as normal. The PO had already removed the cats so I don't need the pump. We don't have emissions testing where I live.

http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...ck-AirPump.htm

Last edited by G Man; 07-27-2006 at 12:55 AM.
Old 07-27-2006, 12:21 AM
  #24  
auzivision
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So what is the bottom line on these pumps. Do they serve a purpose (other than emissions)? Do they help, hinder, or not effect power. If your state doesn’t perform emissions test and your system is already disconnected and welded shut at the cats… Is there any benefit to leaving the pump on?
Old 07-27-2006, 05:15 PM
  #25  
AJK
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It is possible to run the fan using a belt driven directly from the crank pully, no tensioner needed. I have this setup and it works fine. The belt is - MBL THree Star, 4L210, Profile 4L, 21 inch, $4.99 at your local hardware store.

This works for sure on a '79, 16V engine.
Old 07-28-2006, 08:47 AM
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I unplugged the hose that was left open from removal of my smog pump. Now the temp runs right where it used to- straight up the middle. Even in traffic the needle move to the hot much slower- until the elec fan kicks in.
Old 07-28-2006, 09:22 AM
  #27  
Normy
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My S2 has a seized pump, and all the air fittings. Funny, from day one when I bought the car in '99, the air pump has not been hooked up to anything; the hose from the diverter valve is disconnected. I've never had any heat issues.

As stated, 4L210 is the belt that drives the viscous fan without an air pump. I found mine at Pep-boys; I believe it is for a riding lawnmower.

N!
Old 07-28-2006, 11:48 AM
  #28  
Glen McCartney
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Mark, sent you a PM and email
Old 07-28-2006, 02:30 PM
  #29  
RDS928S
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Where is the diverter valve on the 85/86S engines?.

I recently had electric fans installed and the air pump disconnected.
However my engine idles rough and vibrates into the pasanger compartment.
I suspect the line to the diverter valve is not plugged?.

Thanks Rich
Old 07-28-2006, 07:44 PM
  #30  
neilh
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Default Pump delete

FWIW..
Take a look at item 7a ( 928.106.080.02 ) in attached PET. Pump delete option - Japan only - adds an idler to replace the pump.
Quick search found it at 928intl...
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