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Aesthetic Help (Car Wash)

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Old 07-21-2006, 09:51 PM
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rawwarden
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Default Aesthetic Help (Car Wash)

So, I've become fustrated with the washing of my 82 Euro S. I do it alot, but I can never see to get the water spots from showing up, and when I do problems occur. I bought this cleaning rag thing, and it worked for a while, but than dryroated and started to leave dust on the car. So i bought a california blade, and it made a small paint scratch two seperate times. I live in a rural town, and the nearest town of decent size doesnt have chammeys (atleast I can't find em). I was wondering if theirs an alternative to a chammey.

Last edited by rawwarden; 07-21-2006 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Confusing contraction
Old 07-21-2006, 10:01 PM
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John Veninger
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Leaf blower.
Old 07-21-2006, 10:06 PM
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dr bob
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I wash normally, then use one of the synthetic drying towels, then dry the rest of the way with microfiber towels. The synthetic drying towels sell under a lot of different names, but they are basically the same. You can get them at Wal-Mart. They probably have the microfiber drying towels too.

We have a lot of minerals in the water that comes from the tap, so IMHO a water softener is a good idea. It helps me keep the black car black, cuts down on mineral deposits that gather in the microscratches in the paint. The minerals dry and crystalize, then they will refract light and make those micro-scratches look huge. When the minerals partially dissolve in the rain or at the next wash, they scratch agai and the problem only gets worse. If you don't have soft water, try one of the no-spot dryiong systems like the Mr. Clean car wash. It includes a hose-end water softener that you just replace once in a while. With the detergent with the surfactant in it, it dries almost spot-free on its own. Almost...

There are more than a few "recipes" for car washing soap/detergents/whatever. One I tried that works OK uses a few tablespoons of Murphy's Oil Soap in it. That stuff seems to do an OK job of mnimizing spotting.

Don't forget the normal warnings about washing: Never in the sun, never a hot car, etc. If you have a humid morning, before the sun gets hot, that's the best time to wash the car IMO. The water doesn't evaporate off the car very fast, and there's a little extra time to get the water off before it becomes one with the paint and leaves spots.
Old 07-21-2006, 11:35 PM
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RngTrtl
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The best way to keep H20 spots from occuring is: After you wash your car,dry it normally, get some demineralized water, spray it down with an old squirt bottle, then dry again. always works for me.
Old 07-21-2006, 11:56 PM
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greg928GTS
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I live in a small town too. We do have the internet and UPS though.
Old 07-21-2006, 11:57 PM
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Marine Blue
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Large waffle weave microfibers work well and should last a few years. Most auto parts stores have them.
Old 07-22-2006, 12:04 PM
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Schocki
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I use the Mr. Clean Auto Dry system. Saves a lot of time and works just fine. Only disadvantage is that you cant't use it in direct sunlight.

http://www.homemadesimple.com/en_US/mrclean/home.do
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Old 07-22-2006, 12:14 PM
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rawwarden,

Doing about 130 on an open stretch of road usually gets all of the water off the car.

But in all seriousness, where are the spots appearing? Mine are usually under the hatch and under the rear lights. There was a thread discussing the issue and a number od solutions were provided.

I've also used the California water blade with luck...but it has to be very clean. Any trace of dirt WILL scratch the car. I only use the blade to remove the excess water...after that, I use a large egyptian towel to absorb the remaining water.

hope this helps...

Roger 87s4
Old 07-22-2006, 12:48 PM
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Sharkbody
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I use the Mr. Clean for the rinse and micro fiber towels for the drying along with the Cal blade. I don't use the Mr. Clean soap. California Dreamin carnauba wash works well and smells good too.
Old 07-22-2006, 01:02 PM
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ceedee
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there are a couple of thing you want to look out for when you was your car
-first off when you was the car make sure you rinse it all over with running water... not a stream as that might drive dirt into the paint.
-then prepare a bucked with spoapy water and a clean sponge. (never put that sponge into the soapy bucket again after you touched the car with it. rinse it with clean water from the hose and then load it with soapy water.)
-don't clean the rims, yet
-wash the car from top to bottom left to right.
-don't let soap dry on the car. rinse right away after you cleaned a section. keep the car wet at all times.
-if you drop your sponge, rinse it right away and do that really good.
-the rims are the last thing to clean...and i use a seperate sponge for them.
-make sure your california blade is wet, before you use it and feel with your fingers for any dirt on it.
-then open the doors and clean the door jambs and dry with a clean cloth (i always use microfiber towels and wrap my sponge in it.
the sponge holds a lot of water and the microfiber towel does a lot of cleaning action.

you want to clay your car like once a month , i do it after every wash really quick and put a quick detail wax on.
i use meguiars nano tech soap its really thick and lasts a long time
Old 07-22-2006, 01:07 PM
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perrys4
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Definately a water softener. Secondly only wash in the shade and dry immediatley. Compressor and airhose to blow it off good.
Old 07-22-2006, 01:35 PM
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dr bob
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What Ron said, plus...

A wet/dry vac does a pretty impressive job of pulling water out of body details. Many use them to blow the water around on the car, but that just leads to more spots. Sucking the water into the vac is better, IMO.

---

ceedee suggests that you do the rims last. A detailer at the Devek event last year proposed that you do the dirty rockers/sills, then the tires/wheels/wheelwells/etc, all with a dedicated bucket, brush, and sponge. Once that is done, rinse them and start doing the rest of the car with another dedicated bucket and sponge. Reasoning is that you get the big dirt off before there's even a chance of contaminating the sponge you use for the cleaner top of the car. Plus, if you wait until the end to do the wheels etc, the rest of the car has more time to spot before you go after it with your drying/blading/wiping weapons of choice. It makes sense to me, anyway. Also: A dropped sponge on anything but the clean garage floor goes into the washing machine and another one comes out of the sponge basket. Too easy for dirt to get caught in a gap in the sponge and gouge the paint.

My car wash 'kit' has three buckets. The third bucket starts out with sponges, ends up with wet towels and sponges. If I time things right, I can chuck the used sponges and towels directly into the garage washing machine for a tumble before the next project. Just a little bit of detergent and use the "extra rinse" option. NO FABRIC SOFTENER! Did everybody hear that fabric softener comment OK?
Old 07-22-2006, 02:08 PM
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inactiveuser1228
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shade, leaf blower, high quality cotton towels, and patients.
Old 07-22-2006, 02:09 PM
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Oh, and I forgot, lots of car washing fluid - beer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Old 07-22-2006, 02:15 PM
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Where do you buy the patients from?


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