is this (engine temperature) considered hot?
#16
Burning Brakes
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My temp gage used to run about mid way unless in traffic, then it would run at about the 3/4 mark (at which time the aux fan would cut in). I changed my viscous fan clutch, now the needle stays about mid gauge all the time.
#17
Addict
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I usually run between the 2nd and 3rd white lines whether I'm in traffic or on the highway (unless stuck in 95+ degree non-moving traffic where it creeps up to the last white line). I added silicone to my viscous clutch last year and it has worked so far. I am thinking about adding the higher-output condenser fan though to help get the A/C cooler while I am in traffic...
because with more water and less antifreeze, it will actually cool better as water transfers more heat than coolant. I've read suggestions of 30% coolant to water ratio in hot climates rather than a 50/50. Now in the cold, it's another story...
Originally Posted by BIMMERMIKE
That I understand, nut why not a mixture of distilled water and antifreeze?
why just distilled water?
why just distilled water?
#18
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Some things to remember:
It is never a good idea to run pure water in an automotive cooling system. It is a worse idea to run pure antifreeze.
Be sure that the hot air from the radiator can't recirculate. The lower engine cover (belly pan or pans) are important, and the front spoiler even helps some, as do the seals around the radiator.
The 928 temp gauge is NOT a precision instrument.
As stated above - overheating at idle and low speeds is usually air flow, overheating at high speed is usually coolant flow. Overheating all the time can be either, but coolant flow problems are more likely.
It is never a good idea to run pure water in an automotive cooling system. It is a worse idea to run pure antifreeze.
Be sure that the hot air from the radiator can't recirculate. The lower engine cover (belly pan or pans) are important, and the front spoiler even helps some, as do the seals around the radiator.
The 928 temp gauge is NOT a precision instrument.
As stated above - overheating at idle and low speeds is usually air flow, overheating at high speed is usually coolant flow. Overheating all the time can be either, but coolant flow problems are more likely.
#19
Rest in Peace
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Originally Posted by WallyP
Some things to remember:
It is never a good idea to run pure water in an automotive cooling system. It is a worse idea to run pure antifreeze.
It is never a good idea to run pure water in an automotive cooling system. It is a worse idea to run pure antifreeze.
I would also like to add one more thing.
Check for electrolysis with a volt meter, with the engine warm and running, red probe into the coolant and black to a good ground if you are getting more than .3 volts you will have problems
Greg N
#20
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I had same problem I brought it to a very good mechanic. It took him all of 15 seconds to fix. The air louvers just behind the grill were disconnected and were closed thus cutting off air to engine. Fix 39 Cent piece of wire holding louvers open until I order the new part. The other problem was only one fan running.
#22
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Originally Posted by heinrich
make sure thermostat installed correctly and rear seal good
Any diagrams or pics?
Thanks
86.5 A/T
#23
Drifting
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ive just installed a mechanical temp probe in the top hose coming from the block. on the open road the temp is right around 90 degrees centigrade and in traffic it can go as high as 105 before the fans will kick in.