wheel stud length - updated
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
wheel stud length - updated
I have a pair of H&R 21mm spacers I just got from a fellow lister. ( see pic)
Problem is they don't fit on my 81 OB with 16" Phone dials
The original stud length on the hub is about 6mm to long, so when the spacer is bolted on, and i mount the wheel, it stands away from the new spacer surface by about 6mm, because the recess cast into the inside of the wheel between the original stud holes is not deep enough to take the full length of the original stud.
Sinple fix is to fit the spacer then cut off the extra 6mm of stud thats left after i torq down the spacer.
Any done this, can a dremel cutoff disk handle it? Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Problem is they don't fit on my 81 OB with 16" Phone dials
The original stud length on the hub is about 6mm to long, so when the spacer is bolted on, and i mount the wheel, it stands away from the new spacer surface by about 6mm, because the recess cast into the inside of the wheel between the original stud holes is not deep enough to take the full length of the original stud.
Sinple fix is to fit the spacer then cut off the extra 6mm of stud thats left after i torq down the spacer.
Any done this, can a dremel cutoff disk handle it? Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Last edited by neilh; 07-09-2006 at 04:23 PM.
#2
Rennlist Member
Rather than cut the studs ( which you WILL regret later ), why not center punch the wheel in the 5 interference spots on the mounting flange and drill a small 1/16" pilot hole: follow this up with equal 6-7mm depth holes of ~16mm ( studs are 14mm diameter). Easy to trace out, for it is 5 holes on a 130mm circle)
As this is close to the wheel center, balance will not be effected. Similarly, this will not weaken the wheel structurally - for most wheels have cast in void areas in these spots.
As this is close to the wheel center, balance will not be effected. Similarly, this will not weaken the wheel structurally - for most wheels have cast in void areas in these spots.
#4
Rennlist Member
OK, I've only had my '80 for 21 years .... so may feel differently at 25+ .
There is a ton of space in the rear wheel wells: I have similar 28mm spacers on a 9" ET60mm wheel with 245/45 tires. - That suggests that with ET65mm phone dials, there is still a lot of room for more spacers.
It would be an easy trick to cut a piece of 1/4" aluminium plate (6.4mm) to go on one side of the 21mm spacers - and still retain the hubcentric feature ( or two 1/8" spacers, one either side of the 21mm deal).
I'll stop now, for if it gets any thinner, you'll be able to cut them out with scissors ..... and not get to use that Dremel at all ...
There is a ton of space in the rear wheel wells: I have similar 28mm spacers on a 9" ET60mm wheel with 245/45 tires. - That suggests that with ET65mm phone dials, there is still a lot of room for more spacers.
It would be an easy trick to cut a piece of 1/4" aluminium plate (6.4mm) to go on one side of the 21mm spacers - and still retain the hubcentric feature ( or two 1/8" spacers, one either side of the 21mm deal).
I'll stop now, for if it gets any thinner, you'll be able to cut them out with scissors ..... and not get to use that Dremel at all ...
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Garth, took another look, spacers won't help.
I put short dummy bolts in the hub , tightened down the nuts, and tried it into the back of the wheel, its the nuts that hold the spacer to the hub that are hitting the inside edge of the recess in the wheel.
I need to take 6mm of the length of these nuts so when tight they are flush with the spacer face, or find new nuts, or grind them down after they are tighebned so they don't foul, and risk never getting them off again!
I put short dummy bolts in the hub , tightened down the nuts, and tried it into the back of the wheel, its the nuts that hold the spacer to the hub that are hitting the inside edge of the recess in the wheel.
I need to take 6mm of the length of these nuts so when tight they are flush with the spacer face, or find new nuts, or grind them down after they are tighebned so they don't foul, and risk never getting them off again!