Abby Normal

As I am preparing to change the motor in my car, I am wondering what should be done to the used motor coming out to make sure it is stored properly. I am assuming it is best to drain all of the fluids and I was planning on cleaning it up also.

I have a crate to keep it in but was really wondering what else should be done to protect it from damage in storage.
Any suggestions or insight?

butters

In my experience, motors don't really get damaged during storage... I would remove all ancilliary components like the poser steering pump, AC compressor, Alternator, and maybe even the intake and exhaust manifolds... Then storing in a crate or on a stand should be no problem at all!

Mrmerlin

Hi make sure to add some oil to the cylinders and turn the engine over a few times to circulate the oil, if you can get some dessicant and insert into the intake track then tape off the outlets to atmosphere, includes exhausts

macreel

Also depends on where you will store it: wrapped-outside,
in corner of your garage, in storage facility, under carport.

What's the environment/climate like ? How long to store?
What kind of 'critters' are about? etc.


G'luck.

Abby Normal

Some good suggestions, thanks!

Fogey1

Lots of places will accept your old oil fro recycling. Check your FLAPS.

I would then refill with fresh. Yes to spin the motor to circulate the sump oil and, before you do spritz some oil or WD-40 in the combustion chambers. If it's easy to get the valve train extra oily with a heavy oil that'd be good.

As noted seal all the openings. Dessicants down the throats and in the crate if it's a closed box.

Micro climate is important to how **** you have to be. If you lived in Vegas or Tucson you could just wrap it and put in the back yard, but the Big Easy is way different. Your back yard would be at the "box filled with nitrogen" end of the scale.

dr bob

There are marine engine preservatives that are used to lay-up marine engines for winter storage. I used CRC 6-56, sprayed into the cylinders, and the plugs placed back in loosely, for winter storage.

You definitely want to get the old oil out of the sump and get new oil pushed through by hand rotation. Coauting the lower ends of the cylinders is a chore with the pan installed, though. Don't waste your time with WD-40, by the way. It's not a preservative, and in fact will often do more harm than good if there was previously an oil film on your parts. Definitely keep it out of the combustion chambers, where it will wash off anything in there and then run off itself in a matter of days. WD-40 is not your friend unless you need to dry out some old ignition wires or soften/flush out some old grease in a hinge or something. It pretty much sucks as a lubricant or preservative after the first few days.


My opinion on all this of course. Other will have differing opinions.


I "pickled" the engines in my ancient Lotus cars by filling them completely with kerosene. This is sump filled all the way up to the cam covers, including the combustion chambers, to make sure that there is no place for condensation or corrosion. The engines are double-bagged in thick poly bags, and large bags of dessicant were included in the poly bags. The outer bags were sucked down with a shop vac, and sealed. All the external parts were fogged with that CRC 6-56 before bagging. The motors sit in wood saddles on pallets, but no wood inside the bags of course. These engines will need new main and front crankshaft seals, and new valve stem seals before they can be returned to service. So far, they have been stored that way for over 25 years. Perhaps the museum or collector who ultimately finds the cars will appreciate the effort.

I wish there was a good way to keep British leather upholstery as easily as it is to maintain the metal parts in hibernation!