85fortheDrive

I have only been under our 84S (5 spd) once and that was to install a new front spoiler. It has been suggested to me that my sticky shifting might be due to a poorly aligned intermediate clutch plate.

I'm a total newbie to this (and most other) section of the car. Is the removal of the clutch a difficult process? I'm going to bleed the lines too (the Chiltons seems to have a pretty clear explanation of that). My worry is that the "lettuce, tomatoes, cheese, onions" laying of plates will not be easy to reassemble once I get the thing out.

Any quick BTDT tips? Or WYAI suggestions?

Thanks as always.
Tim

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

Removal is easy, replacement is more difficult. I never had to deal with any issues, so can't help you there, but I have had my dual disk clutch out many times.

Nothing much in there, just standard clutch parts, such as pilot bearing and throw out bearing. Maybe change your shift ball cup if it is worn.

worf928

Do a thorough search. I seem to recall reading that it is possible to align the intermediate plate without dropping the clutch. I've seen Kempf do it that way too.

Garth S

Yes, the intermediate plate can be accessed by simply dropping the lower bell housing cover ( six 13mm head bolts) - the tough part is that the exhaust 'Y' pipe may have to come down to get the back two bolts ..... but there is a way to avoid that too { hacksaw blade ]: the adjustment is made on three tabs with a long screwdriver .... and a 27mm socket on the front crank bolt to clockwise rotate the engine.
The search will turn up the details and WSM reference.

hacker-pschorr

After pulling mine out at least 10 times over the span of 2 weeks - I was suprised how simple the setup really is.

The easiest way I found to adjust the intermediate disc is with a spare bellhousing with a hole cut in it. I would send you the one I used - except it's not mine. Otherwise you need to find a way to disengage the clutch with the bellhousing off. I guess some use a ratchet strap going from the clutch arm to the rear suspension.

What exactly is it doing?

rcoble

I too am going to try to do this in a few weeks. Very interested in the non-removal method. My transmission on the 83 was having 2nd gear grinding, and after new clutch plates, and adjustment of intermideate plate, (not new intermediate plate) it shifted like a dream, and now the shifting problem has begun to return.

hacker-pschorr

Every bit of double disc clutch advice can be summed up here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273590

Long story short - my ID was somewhat new so I wanted to make sure everything else was fine before I replaced it. If you check out last page or so, my release bearing was internally broken (actually the ring that holds it in place) causing my clutch to come and go at random.

#1 way to tell if your clutch is really working is reverse. Synchros "hide" a riding clutch. I know for a FACT my clutch is working 100% now and 2nd gear still grinds a bit - synchros are on their way out.

So, come to a stop, keep the clutch in for at least 5-10 seconds and try reverse VERY SLOWLY if there is any grinding, or if you feel any teeth mashing together - it's not releasing. I do this a few times a week at intersections (long red lights) to make sure my clutch is still working. Don't just jam it in there. Remember what it says in the manual - to always wait 4-5 seconds with the clutch in for the transmisison to stop spinning before trying reverse.

From what I've played with - a worn or incorreclty adjusted intermediate disc will cause the clutch to always drag, not come and go. I played with three different discs in that thread above.

Fabio421

Yep. Thats the way I did it. Attached the ratchet strap from the clutch arm to the rear crossmember that runs under the transaxle. Its not difficult. You can get to lots of other stuff while your at it. O2 sensor, oil pan bolts, etc.

hacker-pschorr

I tried the strap trick - before borrowing / steeling my friends test bellhousing - could not get the arm to move all the way back. Seams a bit dangerous to, if that come loose an your head is anywhere near the arm.....ouch.

Fabio421

Thats true Hacker. I had no problem getting the arm back far enough, but I had to put one heck of a strain on it. It really popped when I released it. I can imagine it knocking you out if the lever hit you. But most of us don't have the luxury of an extra cover.
BTW. When are you gonna come clean?

hacker-pschorr

What did I forget to do this time?

Fabio421

You keep alluding to something you did but aren't ready to admit. I thought it had to do with your clutch because you were having so much trouble with it.

Fabio421

You keep alluding to something you did but aren't ready to admit. I thought it had to do with your clutch because you were having so much trouble with it.

hacker-pschorr

Oh yea, that. I was having real issues getting my car to run right with the blower at first. The clutch job was a major setback since I couldn't go forward trying to fix the motor with the clutch bummed out.

I replaced the head gaskets last year, few friends of mine told me my car never sounded the same after that job. Well, I discovered two gaskets under the #3 intake runner causing a major air / vacuum / boost leak throwing everything off. So, totally my fault, bone headed move. Once the gasket was "fixed" the car ran perfect.

85fortheDrive

My autmotive buddy and I have been looking at various how-to resources for the clutch removal. Seems alot easier than the removal for the 924! We have a question before we get going. Is there a racing variety clutch for the 928? My SCCA driving buddy feels the intermediate plate adds complexity to the process and is curious about replacement options.

As for me, I've just learned what a slave cyclinder is.