Gas pedal: How to reduce its back pressure?
06-29-2006, 02:36 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by dr bob
In the event of any failuire of the main spring, the 'new' spring will cause the throttle to go to full-open. This could cause a problem, or worse!
This would be a great place to apply technology. If I were a better electical geek, I'd be able to figure out a "Drive by wire" solution using something from a current model car. Even some of the new motorcycles are coming out drive by wire now.
It sounds like an interesting project.
06-29-2006, 02:56 PM
#17
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Mine was improved by new throttle cable from the actuator to under the intake and new bearings in the actuator.
I also replaced the plastic wheel that Sterling mentioned.
Like others have mentioned it is probably down to multiple items, other 928's I drove do seem heavier by comparison.
Chris
I also replaced the plastic wheel that Sterling mentioned.
Like others have mentioned it is probably down to multiple items, other 928's I drove do seem heavier by comparison.
Chris
06-29-2006, 03:40 PM
#18
Captain Obvious
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Originally Posted by dr bob
I respectfully disagree.
In the event of any failuire of the main spring, the 'new' spring will cause the throttle to go to full-open. This could cause a problem, or worse!
"Modern" cars come with two return springs, to make sure that failure of one spring doesn't cause a problem. Each spring needs to be able to pull the throttle closed in spite of any possible friction in the linkages and cables. As we experiment with taking a turn out of the throttle-plate spring, for instance, keep in mind that it still has to be able to hold the plate hard against the stop when released, without any assistance from other springs.
In the event of any failuire of the main spring, the 'new' spring will cause the throttle to go to full-open. This could cause a problem, or worse!
"Modern" cars come with two return springs, to make sure that failure of one spring doesn't cause a problem. Each spring needs to be able to pull the throttle closed in spite of any possible friction in the linkages and cables. As we experiment with taking a turn out of the throttle-plate spring, for instance, keep in mind that it still has to be able to hold the plate hard against the stop when released, without any assistance from other springs.
06-29-2006, 06:27 PM
#19
Race Director
Nicole
My throttle can be heavy at times too......typically I just BWAAAAH it for a second to help my foot "relax"... :>)
When my hood release broke....cleaning the cables and a bunch of spray lube really dropped the effort required to open the hood.....should help with the throttle too?
My throttle can be heavy at times too......typically I just BWAAAAH it for a second to help my foot "relax"... :>)
When my hood release broke....cleaning the cables and a bunch of spray lube really dropped the effort required to open the hood.....should help with the throttle too?
06-30-2006, 01:49 AM
#20
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Just to give you an idea how serious this is to me: This is my thrid day of pain, and the advice nurse made me see a doctur, who prescribed anti inflammatory and pain killers that make me totally dizzy...
I really hope one of the suggestions above will work out. I'll probably study PET a bit before tackling this. Thanks, all, for your input!
I really hope one of the suggestions above will work out. I'll probably study PET a bit before tackling this. Thanks, all, for your input!
06-30-2006, 01:59 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by Nicole
Just to give you an idea how serious this is to me: This is my thrid day of pain, and the advice nurse made me see a doctur, who prescribed anti inflammatory and pain killers that make me totally dizzy...
BTW, throttle bodies have wound srongs to provide resistance. You could modify the spring, but that's really not your problem. My back and neck are royally F-ed and I have no problems with driving a stick shift (6-speed Wrangler) on my 1.5 hour (each way) daily commute, much less a long drive (simple in comparison).
