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Transmission problems.... *video

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Old 06-30-2006, 07:54 PM
  #46  
Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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I have to echo what Bill said.
Old 06-30-2006, 08:27 PM
  #47  
whitefox
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Originally Posted by Fabio421
Have you done this yet?
I was going to do it after I took it to AAMCO today but it started raining. I am willing to bet it will not help, I will try it when it stops raining.

Originally Posted by Bill Ball
But this is only the way to go if you are a willing to get you hands dirty, don't need the car for a while, have a good paying job and don't mind continuing to repair an old car periodically
What if I need the car, and dont have a good paying job?
Old 06-30-2006, 11:16 PM
  #48  
Ron_H
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I also echo what Bill said. I have a VW Rabbit to drive is either of my P cars is down. Right now, one of them is definitely down; it is 36 yrs old, The other one is 20 years old and I expect things to wear out. Both require periodic checks to fix what appear to be minor failings. For both I have a stash of parts on the shelf and fabricate some parts when I can't fix a problem with a NOS part. And of course we all use our Big Three sources and others for used parts. The point is that our cars are aging. Expect failures.

There are two problems in life: either money or time. Rarely does anyone have both. When I was younger, I had lots of time, not much experience and very little money. As I gain experience, I can get more money, but then I don't have time. I like to tinker with my machines, but can't afford the time. And besides, someone must give Uncle George some money to keep him in business. So I have another car to drive in case my P cars are down. Cheap thrills.

Just a thought.
Old 06-30-2006, 11:25 PM
  #49  
whitefox
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I understand the car is old, I knew that going into this, but I bought the car knowing it needed work and I was and still am willing to work on it. I make/made just enough to enjoy this car and keep it in good condition and I dont mind it. This transmission is a little overwhelming though, very expensive to even have looked at, and my warranty is pretty useless.
Old 06-30-2006, 11:58 PM
  #50  
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Ross,
I feel for you. We are all one small random failure from an expense that could exceed our financial capabilities or the value of our cars. It's one of the realities of running old, expensive cars that we buy relatively cheaply. I'm sorry for your bad luck. Hope it turns around and you can weather the expense.
Old 07-01-2006, 12:01 AM
  #51  
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Well, don't feel too badly. Here is a scenario that should make your problems pale by comparison. My car has about 180,000 miles on it now. About 10,000 miles ago, I had the transmission rebuilt. I thought 170,000 miles was reasonable for a performance car. I jumped in it and headed for Pennsylvania. When there, I was in a parking lot backing out of a stall, when another car came flying through the lot. Without thinking, I rammed the lever into Park as I mashed on the brake. The transmission reached Park before the brakes stopped the rearward movement of the car. I heard a loud snap. Then the Park function ceased to be functional. I had broken the parking pawl off of my newly rebuilt transmission. What warranty??? I have to eat this one, and r/r at a shop is $1000. For the past year, I have simply used the handbrake to park, just as if the car was a stick. Got to save my pennies for this one.
Old 07-01-2006, 08:03 AM
  #52  
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"What if I need the car, and dont have a good paying job?"

Then honestly the 928 is not the right car for you.
Old 07-01-2006, 08:54 AM
  #53  
whitefox
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Well I am stuck with it now.
Old 07-01-2006, 02:23 PM
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When I was in graduate school, I had a 911 and spent more time under it than I should have, because I couldn't afford to pay anyone else to fix it. When I got out, I didn't have enough time to fix it because I was always working. Can't win.
Old 07-01-2006, 03:58 PM
  #55  
whitefox
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Well the transmission additive didnt work, I take the car into Scottshop Porsche Repair wednesday. I am sure I will want to kill myself when I see the bill.
Old 07-01-2006, 07:15 PM
  #56  
Randy V
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Search here for replacing the governor unit of the transmission.

It is a relatively easy job that does not require removal of the transmission (assuming I'm remembering that correctly).

Also, here's contact info for Steve C - he's our resident trans master:

https://rennlist.com/forums/members/477-steve-cattaneo.html
Old 07-01-2006, 07:35 PM
  #57  
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I sent Steve C a pm the other day and he hasnt responded, I have also searched for information regarding the governor on rennlist and greg nichols site and have not found ANY information on removal and cleaning.
Old 07-01-2006, 08:46 PM
  #58  
Fabio421
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OK Ross. This is from the WSM.

Troubleshooting

Condition: No upshifts.

Cause/Correction:

1. Check governor pressure. If there is no gov. pressure reading, continue with point 2. If governor pressure is correct, continue with point 3.

2. Clean and service centrifugal governor

3. Disassemble and clean shift valve housing, replaceing if necessary.

Note: Since you most likely don't have the tools to check your governor pressure, you will just have to do both #2 and #3. Here is the process for #2 as its the easiest and fastest to do. If this doesn't solve your problem let me know.


Removing Governor

1. loosen intermediate muffler shield and push aside mas far as possible.

2. Unlock plug for starter locking and backup light switch by turning up white plastic ring in direction of arrow ( counter clockwise). Pry off plug carefully with two screw drivers applied on both sides.

( added by me) To the right of this white plug you will see a larger round cover.

3. Press in cover and remove snap ring with cover.

(added by me) You can identify the axial holder by its configuration. It is a slotted, threadded shaft with a jam nut on it. It should be found on the oposite side of the transmission as the governor cover.

4. Loosen nut for axial holder.

5. Turn axial holder counterclockwise with a screwdriver inserted in its slot.

6. Pull out governor

Note: Absolute cleanliness is necessary for the installation of the governor. If necessary, cover area of governor installation with lint free cloths.

Checking Governor

Move centrifugal weight (found at the large end of the governor) and at the same time check movement of governor valve in openings ( two slots close to the small end)

Note: It should be possible to move governorvalveeasily. If necessary, wash governor and dry thoroughly with compressed air.

(added by me) You can use ether (starting fluid) to clean the governor and other internal transmission parts. It will evaporate quickly and you won't need to dry it. Lubricate all parts with petroleum jelly (vaseline) as it will disolve in the trans. fluid and won't harm anything.

Installing Governor

1. Guide the governor into its hole.

2.Move centrifugal governor lightly in and out while turning the axial holder clockwise until governor engages firmly.
(added by me) You are basicly rotating a pawl with your screw driver. It is shaped like a little hook and it is rotating on the shaft that you are turning with the scredriver. It is what holds the centrifugal governor in its proper position in the transmission housing.

3.Make sure you tighten the jam nut after you get the axial holder engaged onto the governor shaft. Torque rating is 6 ft/lb

4.Press in cover and insert snap ring.

5. Press out cover again until it rests on snap ring.

6. Press on the plug for starter locking and backup light switch. Lock by turning white plastic ring down.

7. Bolt up your muffler shield.


Last edited by Fabio421; 07-01-2006 at 09:09 PM.
Old 07-01-2006, 08:46 PM
  #59  
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Hi do you have the WSM? it might save you some bux if you gan get a copy
Old 07-01-2006, 11:53 PM
  #60  
Steve Cattaneo
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You did say the transmission fluid is red. Are you absolutely sure the kick down bypass is disable, how did you bypass the KD switch under the gas pedal. Remove relay XV which is the KD relay. If that does not work , then disconnect the Bowden cable from the linkage and drive the car with the cable off, how does it feel.


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