Dennis Wilson

Frank,

Just keep the Techron (or Gumout) flowing.

Dennis

fbarnhill

Ok Dennis, I have run one can through and will try another. Yesterday after switching the hoses, I was adjusting everything and all of a sudden it started running rough. I just drove it a little bit and it smoothed out a little. I will get some techron this weekend.

jpitman2

i HAVE HAD OCCASIONAL MISFIRES in mine, and when I located the cylinder, and cracked open that injector line to release pressure, the misfire goes away. My local wrench says this indicates a piece of crap is blocking the feed at the distributor occasionally, and releasing pressure allows it to drop off the feed hole.....see if you can localize the cylinder and try this?
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

fbarnhill

jpitman2,
Hi, I have had all the injectors out twice and there was no pressure either time. Someone mentioned the other day about small screens in each fuel line comming out of the distributor. I haven't cleaned those. I cleaned the one going into it but not the indiviual ones. Those fitings are banjo fittings, is there room for screens there? I listened to each injector with a long screw driver the other day and there were two cylenders that were quiter then the others. Could this be a sign?

Thanks,

hupp

Dennis,

The only thing to note is that when I pull this vacuum line off (normally to check timing) I plug it as the WSM indicates. The idle remains high even with it plugged, so higher idle due to vacuum leak doesn't quite make sense. So this begs the question (if this is in fact a vacuum advance), do I have the line routed to the correct spon on the throttle body? Would you happen to have an illustration since the WSM shows the dual vaccuum line set-up?

jpitman2

Frank, if you pull injectors within 1/2 hour of running there should be pressure in the lines....up to 50psi, as these open at ~55psi. This is one of the tests for good accumulator.
Injectors should be cleaned by cracking open the pintle externally and back flushing, but it seems hard to find people who can do this in US. I have heard of people putting lots of techron in tank and jumping fuel pump relay and leaving the pump running for long periods (hours) just cycling fuel through the system to try to flush gunk to the filter....but this wont help the injectors.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

Dennis Wilson

Scott,

Page 20-6 of the WSM shows the advance line going to the right rear port of the throttlebody. The retard line goes to the right front port of the throttlebody. Now the part that confuses folks. Page 26-3 and 26-4 shows the hose layout for emissions and the advance line is not included, just the retard line. If your port at the distributor is at the front of the advance unit, the line should go to the far right rear of the throttlebody. BTW removing the advance line on my 78 causes a 200 rpm drop at idle.

Dennis

fbarnhill

Jp, Thanks for the suggestions. If it comes to it, I will buy new injectors. While I had them out, I researched getting them cleaned and tested but by the time I shipped them out and back, there wasn't much difference in the price of new ones. ($39.00 x 8)

Dennis, that is great to know, now I can check if I have them right. Now just one more stupid question: Which is advance and which is retard? Don't say me I think that advance is on the top and retard on the bottom. Right or wrong?

Thanks,
Frank

Dennis Wilson

Frank,

The advance port is on the outside and points away from the distributor. Retard points toward the center of the engine.

Dennis

fbarnhill

Dennis,
Mine has two ports. One sticks out of what looks like a traditional vaccum advance port, the other comes straight down from the bottom of that same port close to the center of the distributor. I am assuming that one is the retard port.

SMTCapeCod

You're right.

jpitman2

When I had my injectors cleaned by local wrench, it cost me $9 each, 4 rated fine, 4 need replacing, but this is in Oz , so no help to you....These are same injectors as used by a late Peugeot 4cyl, but I suspect the model will be as rare there as it is here....
jp

fbarnhill

Guys, I printed out the page from the WSM pertaining to my car and took it out to the garauge last nite. It turned out that I did have the lines backwards. I switched them back and had to adjust the idle quite a bit. It is running ok but still has the lack of power issues. Since it ran better with the lines switched, I suspect that maybe I have one of the cam gears off by one notch. I am sure I checked those things a dozen times when I did the tb/wp job. I can't get to it until next week but I am going to pull the covers and check again. Dennis, thanks for taking the time to look this up. I had looked at the WSM but looked for vacuum and not fuel.

SMTCapeCod

Perhaps more likely that your advance mechanism isn't working properly? You might want to hook up a vacuum meter if you can find one to the two lines and see when & to what extent the pull vacuum. Then you can use a hand vaccum pump on the lines connected to the advance pot on the distributor, and see if they influence the position of the ....reluctor(?) (I think)>

hupp

Frank,

Have you taken a look at the timing belt installation in the WSM. This section contains info on aligning the cam gear notches.

Dennis,

Here is how my distributer set up: Single vacuum pod at the front of distributor. Vaccum port (on the pod) located at 1-o-clock on the side of the pod. Vaccuum line is routed to front right of throttle body - vacuum retard location.

I guess the only way to confirm if this is correct is to apply vacuum with the cap off and rotor static and observe which way the rotor moves. If ccw this is vacuum retard and routing is correct, if cw this is advance and my vacuum line is routed improperly and should be routed to the rear throttle body port.