Building a better 9125: What's the diameter of the front crank seal?
06-21-2006, 01:01 PM
#1
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Building a better 9125: What's the diameter of the front crank seal?
I was watching the TB/WP video on Jim's CD's and noticed the use of a fine-looking, elegantly crafted front crank seal driver made out of PVC pipe. I ordered a seal along with all the other parts but it's not here yet, and I'm getting the tools together. So- anyone know what diameter sewer pipe I need to get to make up a seal tool? Thanks!
06-22-2006, 11:15 AM
#4
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jp: Thanks 1x10^6 for measuring. I appreciate it!
-Rob
-Rob
07-30-2010, 01:56 AM
#5
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(928 experts: please review and tell me if any of this is bad advice, as I'm just your average DIYer and don't want to be providing bad info.)
I'm going to resurrect this thread long enough to share my PVC front main seal installer ("improvised Tool 9125") that I whipped up a couple of weeks ago, inspired by this thread and other similar ones.
Raw materials:
The significant PVC stuff, from left to right, is: 2" PVC coupler, 2" to 1½" PVC reducer, 8 cm long piece of 1½" PVC pipe (schedule 40 is best thickness; it fits over the crankshaft end fairly snugly), and 1½" PVC cap. In retrospect, I think I should have left off the cap, thus leaving the pipe open on the outside so the crank bolt (with a suitably large washer with an I.D. greater than the crank bolt size and I.O. greater than 1½") could be used to drive the installer in a controlled fashion.
Orient the coupler so that the smooth edge (one edge usually has writing on it that makes the edge surface uneven) is on the outside. Start gluing pieces together as shown. After the glue has set, it's a good time to notch the pipe 1 cm by 4 cm as shown. Pretty easy to do with a Dremel. In retrospect, I should have left a little material on the outside edge of the end of the pipe (this keeps it from collapsing when inserted deeply into the reducer). Also create a 1 cm wide notch in the inside of the reducer, too. These will allow the whole assembly to fit over the woodruff key on the crankshaft.
Glue the two pieces together, taking care to align the notches you cut:
Label, since after it's used, it'll probably be thrown in a box and not used for a few years:
Use carefully. Since its O.D. is smaller than the hole the seal fits into, you can drive the seal too far if you're not careful. Remember to lube the crankshaft and the inner lip of the seal before installing. Go very slowly. Be damn careful to make sure the seal is as perpendicular to the crankshaft as possible.
I drove my replacement seal (with very gentle hammer taps on the PVC cap) in to the same depth as the one I removed, perhaps 1 mm (maybe just 0.5 mm) beyond flush and felt around the edge to make sure it was even all around.
It appears to me that if you drive the seal in too far, you'd choke off the oil flow (in the photo below, aren't those rectangular slots in the seal hole at about 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock oil passages?)
I'm going to resurrect this thread long enough to share my PVC front main seal installer ("improvised Tool 9125") that I whipped up a couple of weeks ago, inspired by this thread and other similar ones.
Raw materials:
The significant PVC stuff, from left to right, is: 2" PVC coupler, 2" to 1½" PVC reducer, 8 cm long piece of 1½" PVC pipe (schedule 40 is best thickness; it fits over the crankshaft end fairly snugly), and 1½" PVC cap. In retrospect, I think I should have left off the cap, thus leaving the pipe open on the outside so the crank bolt (with a suitably large washer with an I.D. greater than the crank bolt size and I.O. greater than 1½") could be used to drive the installer in a controlled fashion.
Orient the coupler so that the smooth edge (one edge usually has writing on it that makes the edge surface uneven) is on the outside. Start gluing pieces together as shown. After the glue has set, it's a good time to notch the pipe 1 cm by 4 cm as shown. Pretty easy to do with a Dremel. In retrospect, I should have left a little material on the outside edge of the end of the pipe (this keeps it from collapsing when inserted deeply into the reducer). Also create a 1 cm wide notch in the inside of the reducer, too. These will allow the whole assembly to fit over the woodruff key on the crankshaft.
Glue the two pieces together, taking care to align the notches you cut:
Label, since after it's used, it'll probably be thrown in a box and not used for a few years:
Use carefully. Since its O.D. is smaller than the hole the seal fits into, you can drive the seal too far if you're not careful. Remember to lube the crankshaft and the inner lip of the seal before installing. Go very slowly. Be damn careful to make sure the seal is as perpendicular to the crankshaft as possible.
I drove my replacement seal (with very gentle hammer taps on the PVC cap) in to the same depth as the one I removed, perhaps 1 mm (maybe just 0.5 mm) beyond flush and felt around the edge to make sure it was even all around.
It appears to me that if you drive the seal in too far, you'd choke off the oil flow (in the photo below, aren't those rectangular slots in the seal hole at about 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock oil passages?)
Last edited by Ed Scherer; 08-19-2010 at 10:18 PM.
07-30-2010, 02:08 AM
#6
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Looks good, I didnt go that elaborate on mine...On my 83, I dont recall the notch I see in yours - 8 o'clock? Not sure if the holes you mention are feeds or drains?
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
07-30-2010, 10:22 AM
#7
Team Owner
I use a 3/4 drive socket turned around ( use one with a flat rear side)with an extension inserted into the center,
tap with a hammer and work around the seal,
the socket will bottom on the block and leave the seal flush in the correct position. Note you may have to remove the extension and finish the 3 to 8 O clock positions with the flat end of the extension due to the small lip, never had any problems
tap with a hammer and work around the seal,
the socket will bottom on the block and leave the seal flush in the correct position. Note you may have to remove the extension and finish the 3 to 8 O clock positions with the flat end of the extension due to the small lip, never had any problems
