Doing my CV Boots tonight.
#16
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Easiest way to undo, and tighten initially the Big nut is by jacking against the car's weight....loosens them nice and easily, no danger of sudden snaps or falls.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k, BTDT
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k, BTDT
#17
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Sean
The ABS sensor fastens pointing into the centre of the hub The wiring connects into the cylindrical barrel connector in your photo. The other two connectors in the barrel are the pad wear sensor - wires go to the brake pads, and the RDK tyre pressure sensor , these are bolted onto the "outside" of the hub and have plastic sensors facing out towards the inside face of the wheel rim - If you have non S4 rims your wheels wont have the "transmitter" for the RDK.
Attached pic gives a bit more insight. If you need more photos get back to me - 88 SE is on Jack stands at the moment so it's easy.
Jon
The ABS sensor fastens pointing into the centre of the hub The wiring connects into the cylindrical barrel connector in your photo. The other two connectors in the barrel are the pad wear sensor - wires go to the brake pads, and the RDK tyre pressure sensor , these are bolted onto the "outside" of the hub and have plastic sensors facing out towards the inside face of the wheel rim - If you have non S4 rims your wheels wont have the "transmitter" for the RDK.
Attached pic gives a bit more insight. If you need more photos get back to me - 88 SE is on Jack stands at the moment so it's easy.
Jon
#18
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Ok, instead of bringing up a new thread I'll just post on this one.
I pulled the front passenger wheel to find out if I have a wheel bearing problem (unresolved atm) and noticed this sensor with the wire. The smaller of the two is busted off. (see attached pic)
Would this be the cause of my ABS being inop?
I pulled the front passenger wheel to find out if I have a wheel bearing problem (unresolved atm) and noticed this sensor with the wire. The smaller of the two is busted off. (see attached pic)
Would this be the cause of my ABS being inop?
#20
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Can't remember which wire is which at the connector block, they are simple to trace back though.
Three sensors on the wheel
a) pad wear sensor - wire connects to a fragile plastic wedge located in the centre of the inboard brake pad
b) abs sensor on the front wheels the wire connects to a cylindrical sensor mounted horizontally bolted into the rear of the hub carrier
c) rdk tyre pressure sensor is the round black plastic 2" dia in a sheet metal bracket on the top of the hub carrier IIRC
You can't really mistake one of these for any of the others.
Just realised I have said all this before.
As Bill said if the cut wire is the ABS sensor wire then the ABS won't work and it is likely that the warning light bulb has been removed.
Three sensors on the wheel
a) pad wear sensor - wire connects to a fragile plastic wedge located in the centre of the inboard brake pad
b) abs sensor on the front wheels the wire connects to a cylindrical sensor mounted horizontally bolted into the rear of the hub carrier
c) rdk tyre pressure sensor is the round black plastic 2" dia in a sheet metal bracket on the top of the hub carrier IIRC
You can't really mistake one of these for any of the others.
Just realised I have said all this before.
As Bill said if the cut wire is the ABS sensor wire then the ABS won't work and it is likely that the warning light bulb has been removed.
#21
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Thanks guys, I'll put a new one in there and see if that solves my problems.
#22
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Originally Posted by SeanR
This is a must have for our garages.
$59.00 at Northern Tool and Equipment. My only gripe is it can't use petroleum based solvent, so I have this "EPA approved" crap. Damn tree huggers.
$59.00 at Northern Tool and Equipment. My only gripe is it can't use petroleum based solvent, so I have this "EPA approved" crap. Damn tree huggers.
What percipitated the work? did you see a broken seal and grease spray.
#23
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
Got one out in the shop as well; couldn't work without it now.
What percipitated the work? did you see a broken seal and grease spray.
What percipitated the work? did you see a broken seal and grease spray.
The boots were cracked if you are referring to the original post.
If it is my checking the wheel bearings......... I kept hearing a 'humming" sound from the right front so I just took the wheel off to take a look at it. The bearing has no play and when I took the cap off, there was grease in it and everything looked fine so I put it back together. I didn't see anything rubbing the rotor or the wheel so I'm kind of stumped.
As for noticing the wire, I got to cleaning in there (A-arms and all that) then noticed that wire hanging there.
On your parts cleaner, what are you using for a solvent? I'm going with Rog100's suggestion of 50/50 H2O and simple green. Works great but smells up the garage.
#24
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Thx...........my question was re. the work on the rear boots; did you see anything wrong with the joints at all?.
My parts cleaner looks very similar to yours and I use regular solvent/paint thinner...............works great for cleaning up parts, just have to be a little careful around open flame.
My parts cleaner looks very similar to yours and I use regular solvent/paint thinner...............works great for cleaning up parts, just have to be a little careful around open flame.
#26
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Originally Posted by soontobered84
Sean,
we used Roger's 3/4" Torque wrench to tighten axle nuts. I would suggest using the same.
we used Roger's 3/4" Torque wrench to tighten axle nuts. I would suggest using the same.
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As far as the bearings, they were fine. Had a hell of a time getting one back on the axle so I went to the local P-car shop and he had an extra inner piece so I just put them back together, greased them up and they are good.
#27
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Well yeah Sean I was there, I just didn't remember it being your car that I tightened the nuts on. LOL, I guess that's what happens second but I don't remember what happens first!