LH Euro no start (POs of my car should be shot.)
05-17-2006, 04:24 PM
#20
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Did you have an add-on (federalizing) computer at some point?
05-17-2006, 04:27 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
They go from the middle of the passenger seat to a few inches in front of the passenger seat. I'd like to repair it all but that is just too many different colors of wires to buy. The big white (should be red) wire that is seperated at the right end is the one that appears to be causing my start problem.
05-17-2006, 04:29 PM
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Good question.."Where do all those blue wires go...? " obviously a harness repair caused by an earlier melt down. But how far do they go before /IF they jump back to factory wires and with how many more butt connector splices ?
05-17-2006, 04:32 PM
#23
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
My guess is a botched stereo install or water damage. The center console leather has some nice screw holes in it from stereo installs. There are some rusty pieces and some mold in that area. You can see the mold on the underside of the amp cover/hatch opener panel in the upper right of the last pic.
05-17-2006, 04:42 PM
#25
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Not close enough to VIR.
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Yes, it's an 84 Euro. Let me know if you have one, but I'm not sure if I can afford it right now. I'll see if resplicing the broken wire fixes the start issue then see where I can go from there.
05-17-2006, 05:03 PM
#26
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 63 Likes
on
36 Posts
Holy CRAP! 
Just read the update. Man, some people's kids! 
I would think some of those but-end connectors are your problem (ya think!)... man that sucks.
Just read the update. Man, some people's kids! I would think some of those but-end connectors are your problem (ya think!)... man that sucks.
05-17-2006, 05:06 PM
#27
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by FlyingDog
Yes, it's an 84 Euro. Let me know if you have one, but I'm not sure if I can afford it right now. I'll see if resplicing the broken wire fixes the start issue then see where I can go from there.
Go here; http://www.tpub.com/neets/book4/12a.htm and read up on the Western Union splice method. It is very effective and strong. Can be used with both solid and stranded wires, although not recommended for sizes greater than about 12 Gauge. Strip back quite a bit of insulation on both segments to be joined, put on a piece of heat shrink and slide it out of the way. If stranded wire(I assume), twist the wire in a loose spiral to keep it all in one piece when joining. Then mate them at a 45 degree angle and give them three twists. You should have some wire sticking up from the twists still. Take that wire and fold it to 90 degrees from the joined part, then twist each side an additional three turns. Snip off the remaining wire flush to the twists so it doesn't stick out. LIGHTLY solder the twists with a hot iron. Cool and cover with heat shrink. Use the barrel of the soldering iron to shrink the tubing tight, go to the next joint.
Get rid of all the crimp type connections, they are very resistive after a few months, and have no chemical(soldered) bond, only mechanical. I've done this type of repair on many old wiring harnesses over the years and the results are very good. If you start with bright copper wire, the resistance is very minimal. It's on my Porsche from the engine cross harness over to the 14 pin connector now, and has been working for two years. It's time consuming, but a final fix. Make sure you get the wiring colors correct!
Doc
05-17-2006, 05:12 PM
#28
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
You can repair this very easily. What you need to do is:
- One wire at a time, replace the connectors by cutting them off, then soldering them together with a heat shrink tube over each connection.
- Do this on both sides of each wire and only replace the ones that are too short or too corrected.
- Don’t worry that the extension wires are the same color cause if you do this, one at a time, it will not matter.
- Take your time and make sure the soldered connections are strong and the heat shrinks properly seal each connection, making them weather proof.
I’ve once re wired an entire dash of a car (dash caught on fire) like this. If done correctly, this patch will be as good as an original harness.
I hope this helps!
- One wire at a time, replace the connectors by cutting them off, then soldering them together with a heat shrink tube over each connection.
- Do this on both sides of each wire and only replace the ones that are too short or too corrected.
- Don’t worry that the extension wires are the same color cause if you do this, one at a time, it will not matter.
- Take your time and make sure the soldered connections are strong and the heat shrinks properly seal each connection, making them weather proof.
I’ve once re wired an entire dash of a car (dash caught on fire) like this. If done correctly, this patch will be as good as an original harness.
I hope this helps!
05-17-2006, 05:47 PM
#29
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
To change out the rear harness you would have to pull the interior 1/4 panel and headliner down to route the harness. But consider fixing all the butt connector splices now because it will eliminate a lot of head scratching in the future.
