auxilary air valve question
#1
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auxilary air valve question
Ok. When i don't have the AAV installed, engine starts fine and with a little feathering of the pedal evertyhing catches after about a minute. Now if I install the AAV, then turn the engine over (COLD) it wants to kick the RPMS right away to like 2400 RPMS. Is this right? or is the AAV dying? It will eventually go down after a few minutes, but trying to take a ride at night or early morning with the neighbors and headers....well..you get the picture...
#3
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Borat Impersonator
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Try testing it. When I tested my AAV, I applied 12v directly to the plug and the plate inside will move and close the opening. Then I unplugged the juice and after sitting in ~50 degree inside garage it moved back to open again. It shouldnt want to idle that high.
#6
Supercharged
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When I had my 82, I used the Aux air valve for the nitrous port. But I never had issues with it starting when disconnected (the aux air valve). I would look for other vacuum/plenum leaks.
#7
Racer
Early CIS injected cars have a high idle.My 79 was close to what your is doing.I had a Aux. air valve laying in a box of parts from a volvo V6 project that I tried.Now it idles about 1200 when first started and goes down to base idle in about 2 minutes when warm out and about 3 minutes when cold.I didn't mind the higher idle until I converted to a 4 speed auto in the car with a lower stall speed converter and the high idle was pushing me out of the driveway in the morning.
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#9
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Ahhh CIS.... not sure if my comments are applicable.
John, sounds like a good idea with the constricting the line some, I think I'm going to give that a try.
#10
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Brad;
"If" the AAV is functioning properly then you have a few other items that need dialed in. I'd first start with Borys suggestion; pull the hose off the front of the AAV when stone cold and look into hole. The disc should be 3/4 open. Then apply 12v for at lest 6 minutes. Now disc should be ~90% closed, all except for the little square cutout.
The AAV is adjustable if either of those two parameters aren't met. On the tail section there is a round plug, it can be driven in or out to set the bimetallic spring (which ultimately effects the disc closure).
Disc too open= high rpms/extra air bypassing the throttle plate. Disc closed=no extra air.
"If" the AAV is functioning properly then you have a few other items that need dialed in. I'd first start with Borys suggestion; pull the hose off the front of the AAV when stone cold and look into hole. The disc should be 3/4 open. Then apply 12v for at lest 6 minutes. Now disc should be ~90% closed, all except for the little square cutout.
The AAV is adjustable if either of those two parameters aren't met. On the tail section there is a round plug, it can be driven in or out to set the bimetallic spring (which ultimately effects the disc closure).
Disc too open= high rpms/extra air bypassing the throttle plate. Disc closed=no extra air.
#11
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Scott,
Thanks. I'm going to give it a try to tonight. I'm thinking that aav needs adjusted...
Since mine is already off the engine, I have a 12v AC/DC converter, so I can work on themy bench with...I'll let everyone know the results!
Thanks. I'm going to give it a try to tonight. I'm thinking that aav needs adjusted...
Since mine is already off the engine, I have a 12v AC/DC converter, so I can work on themy bench with...I'll let everyone know the results!
#12
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Quick update, from what I can tell, it almost looked like half of Yin-Yang cutout when cold. When I applied 12v, in 3 minutes it was completely closed. So atleast that works. Now it's just a matter of air throughput when cold...
#14
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Ok. Interesting results. So to tame down the amount of air input here's what I did:
From the 'input' side of the aav there is a x diamter hose going into it. So I took a slighlty smaller hose and slide about 1.5 in length hose inside. Then I took a 4mm (guessing) hose and stuck inside that ( 1.5" ) then i took a 3mm hose and stuck inside that * about 4" in length. So, in theory, I'm piping in less air. Well it worked. When I started the engine cold, instead of the 2400 RPMS ( again, probably not bad if you have a standard exhaust with cats and mufflers...but I don't...) It started at about 1600 RPMS. Much more doable. So, for me, I am considering that a success.
From the 'input' side of the aav there is a x diamter hose going into it. So I took a slighlty smaller hose and slide about 1.5 in length hose inside. Then I took a 4mm (guessing) hose and stuck inside that ( 1.5" ) then i took a 3mm hose and stuck inside that * about 4" in length. So, in theory, I'm piping in less air. Well it worked. When I started the engine cold, instead of the 2400 RPMS ( again, probably not bad if you have a standard exhaust with cats and mufflers...but I don't...) It started at about 1600 RPMS. Much more doable. So, for me, I am considering that a success.