Alan

Randy - try the main door connector - trace the motor circuit - test for voltage between the 2 motor lines there - it should be positive between them for one direction (up/down) & negative for the other- open circuit at rest.

Alan

Randy V

Main door connector? Where is that located?

I assumed the harness routes thru the door hinge conduit to the motor. Thanks.

Alan

Randy,
the motor connects through the conduit but via a disconnect connector T6 on the dirvers door - take off the panel (again) there are 2 connectors - one is T6 - 12 way the other is T3 - 26 way (with thinner wires). On the 12 way you want Pin 1: Green/Red on the loom side & Grey/Blue on the door/motor side & Pin 2: Green on the loom side & Grey/Brown on the door/motor side. You can disconnect and test the pins there for voltage on the loom side.

Alan

Randy V

Hmmm, interesting - hopefully the open is on that connector. Sounds like a Memorial Day weekend project at this point.

Will let you know what I find - thanks for you continued support!

Randy V

Got it! Was a broken wire in the main door harness. Thanks for your help, Alan! I also disconnected that controller connector and now have one-touch up on the driver's window.

Anyone need a like-new window control module?

worf928

Possibly. You (or Alan) wouldn't happen to know what the ignition-off-car-locked current draw of that module is? The one in my '91 is drawing 0.1 amps with the car off and locked and that doesn't seem right.

Alan

Dave - it should be very close to 0mA - much less than 1mA. It has sense circuitry for the doors and ignition that switches its own supply on & off vis a dedicated power relay. 100mA (0.1A) sounds like the power relay coils current + processor standby - ergo - it didn't switch off...

Do your interior lights work correctly, did you do the Euro express-up change perchance? if so it will stay acticve with the door open also...?

How did you test?

Alan

When its off only the sense circuitry is active..

worf928

That's kinda what I figured.

I'm pretty sure my interior lights work fine. The two dome bulbs are burned out, but the other three work fine. I haven't done the one-touch-up mod (yet.)

With the interior light fuse out, and my MM, I pulled fuses until I saw a drop.

Then, with all fuses in, door closed, car locked, waiting about 60 seconds. IIRC the controller stays 'on' for 30 seconds? So I waited double that.

In any case with ALL fuses out the draw is about 100 milliamps. Add the fuse for the window regulator and the draw is about 200 milliamps. The radio amp circuit draws a little too - but it's not in the same order of magnitude as the regulator and the mystery draw.

The thing that pi$$es me off - and cost me two fuses for the MM - is that locking the door takes less than 2 AMPs. But, not unlocking the door. (Duh! Of COURSE because the interior lights come on when the doors unlock. Wait. Nope. I had all my interior lights switched off except for the little red lights on the door end. Hmmm....)

AO

I was going to say... have you checked the red lights on the doors?

worf928

The red lights on the doors draw about 500 mA and they will stay on for 30 seconds (even with the door closed) or until the door is locked. When all the interior lights are on I think it's around 3 AMPs. The digital dash draws quite a bit too. IIRC with the doors closed (but not locked), the digital dash still on, and the interior lights off the draw was about 1.3A.

worf928

Hey, maybe at SITM we can use my car as the patient in a 'finding the current draw' tech session. I would have continued hunting for the draw, but I've been wrenching for a solid week now on one 928 or another and it started feeling too much like real work.

Alan

With the new style alarm/central lock/interior lights module the lighting relay is not supplied by the interior light fuse (only the bulbs are) - the relay is basically always connected - for it to have low current in the coil - all the contacts have to be O.C. this means both doors and the hatch have to be closed (or think they are - easier)... this may still be an issue right?

If the window controller is on then the windows & doors should still work... see if they do (they will take a lot of current - so ammeter out of the circuit).

Test with drivers door closed & window open - lean in turn ignition to on - then off. Test passenger window - should work - open door/close door test window again should have stopped working - did it? If it did open the door and test again - does it work again?

Alan

worf928

Randy - I think I'd like that controller.

Alan, back from SITM now and have another discovery.

I did a test just before I left for SITM. I discovered that:

a) my passenger side window motor is dead
b) the driver's side window is powered after key's out (and/or locked) sometimes forever. And sometimes not at all.

Add to this that the first thing I did this spring was replace my driver's side window motor.

I have to think that I have a bad controller that has burned out both my window motors.

Alan?

Randy V

Great - I was about to list it on eBay in the next day or so.

See:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/278269-for-sale-window-sunroof-control-module.html

The Rennlist Member price is what I paid for it, Dave.

Send me a PM to work out the details.

Alan

Dave - check that the interior lights always go on from either door - not mostly but always (I recommend just pushing the switches in/out etc) they very frequently work most of the time but not always... in that case the window controller may then stay on. In this case there is likely no fault in the window controller... get new pin switches (or clean).

The window controller staying on can drain you battery but not blow your motors... since they would still be inactive.

A fault in the window controller sense circuitry could cause the motors to stay powered when they should not - this could possibly burn out the motors and would be a reason for replacing it, but I think Porsche protected against this with a timeout feature... can't be sure.

There is a test that 'may' help to determine this...

In the sequential open mode - where you tap all the switches and they open in sequence - if all the winsows/sunroof are half open - it should detect them hitting the stops and immediately transfer to opening the next item in sequence - if the limit sensing doesn't work there would be a delay before the next item opens. Since your passenger window is inoperative just set drivers window & sunroof half open. Tap window open & sunroof open - see what happens - does it transition to the sunroof as soon as the window is fully open ?

The later window module only has one current sense circuit that is used for both windows and sunroof so should work the same for all...

Alan