Peter F

Hi,

i'm just installing the rear sway bar poly bushings from Carl.
How do you make the mounts close properly.
This is how far I get, then I'm stuck.
Tried once to keep cranking the bolt and it resulted in a bent tab instead of forcing it into the slot like i thought it would....


/Peter

John Veninger

Is the OD to big for the stock clamp?

Ed MD

Take off the old bushing and then use a c-clamp to pinch the halves together, and you should be able to even slip in the bushing once it is clamped/closed per Carl. Otherwise see 928 Specialist site for instruction on installing the rear sways and they show the c-clamp method. Ed

Step 1 – Use a large flat head screwdriver or similar pry bar and place it horizontally across the mount in between the locking tabs and as pictured below and pry in the direction of the arrow. This will “unsnap” the mount and you can then pry it open enough to remove the bracket and bushing.




Step – 2 Lube the bushings and install on new sway bar in as close to the original positions as possible. Wrap the bushing bracket around the bushing and squeeze it closed with a clamp or similar device until it snaps closed. Be SURE you have the mounting bracket oriented in the proper directions. We suggest doing one side at a time so you can use the original as a guide.

Peter F

Hi John,

stock clamp is a good fit on the new bushing.
Ed, tanks for the tips.
Will try that and see if it works.

/Peter

fraggle

I used the c-clamp method to snap them in place before bolting everything together. Wasn't a fun job!

Peter F

Hi guys,

used the c-clamp method and no bolt to start with.
Had to tighten the c-clamp to a very high pressure and the finally whack it with a hammer to get it into place.
Now it is done on driver side, just removed the clamp on passenger side.
Should be easier now
The new bushings feels tight and nice on the swaybar after bolting it up to the body.

Cheers/Peter

TAREK

I used the C-clamp too. The only thing is that I was never confident about the orientation of the clamp on the bar. There seems to be a point where you're stuck with the position you start with and no changes are allowed unless you take the clamp off again

fraggle

True

Once you get it on you are stuck.

What should have taken us 20 minutes took us 4 or 5 hours with mine. Set, try to install, fiddle, remove, reset...

JWise

I just bought some of Carl's rear bushings and came across this thread while researching the installation.

It appears this job is best done with the rear sway bar removed from the vehicle. Is this correct, or is there a relatively easy way of doing this with the bar still on the car? Thanks!

Tony

i removed mine and placed it in my vice, slowly turned the vice and the clamped locked easily.
Cant imagine doing it on the car.

JWise

Thanks Tony. After putting the car up on stands and crawling under there, I have come to the same conclusion. Carl has a good writeup for removing the bar, and your advice along with the others in this thread will help with the removal of the mount. Wish me luck.

belgiumbarry

yes, in the car it would be almost impossible to open & close the clamps... once you have the bar free it's not so big deal to switch the bushings.
But i had one "problem"... : Carl's bushings were in 2 halfs which he fixes sideways with aluminium collars... now how hard i pressed, i couldn't get those collars nicely to the bushing side , just not enough straight bar-tube before the bends in it.... ok, i fixed them "angled" .. just that they cannot slip out...but it's not a "prof" visual view...

Mako 928

I did install them W/ the bar still on the car. IIRC and it was a few years ago I was able to slide them in sideways and then used a floor jack to close them, then installed the collar that was provided W/ the kit.
The drivers side will be a problem if you still have the rear muffler installed. I installed a RBM so clearance on the drivers side was not a problem.

JWise

OK, here's an idea. Looking at it again, the bushing has a lip protruding around either side of the bracket. I wonder if it would be possible to use a razor blade to remove the lip end on one side, then pull the bushing through the bracket from the opposite side. After removal, push the new ones in from either side (Carl's are split) as both Ed MD and Mako suggest is possible.

I may try this, although in the end I suspect I'll wind up removing the bar. I'll report back what I end up doing, although it may be a few days (cough, weeks, cough ) before I get around to it.

Mako 928

Ah it is comming back to me now... I remember getting the bushings in was a real PITA. I did use some grease and a small sledge hammer along W/ a good sized punch. Using this method you have to have the rear muffler out (RBM) in order to get good access to smacking the bushing into the clamp.