Brian B

I just bought new silicone vacuum lines for the OB. Is it possible to replace the vacuum lines on a 16 valve OB without pulling the spider? It looks like its possible with tiny hands (which I don't even come close to having).

Anybody ever try/do this?

crank71

Brian, I just did the vacuum lines on my 84. I think it would be possible doing one line at a time, but you'd want to remove the air box, tubes...etc and whatever else is easy to move. I don't think I spent more than an extra hour or 2 removing the spider, but I was doing some cleaning, powdercoating and taking out the fuel injectors for rebuilding....give it a shot and see how it works out. Good luck.

Brian B

Craig,
How involved is removing the spider? I'd like to pull it and check the top end out, but it seems like a huge job...

Thanks

Glenn Evans

You can remove the spider body without removing the legs. Loosen the clamps on the rubber intake runner sleeves and slide the sleeves back, clear of the spider body. Remove the idle bypass air hose which fits onto the cold start injector flange at the front of the spider body. Remove the cold start injector fuel line from the injector. I think that there is enough give in the line to move it clear of the injector, but you may have to remove the other end from the fuel distributor. Remove the screws from the cold start injector flange and lift the flange clear (don't drop the O-ring which seals the flange to the spider body, though it's probably as hard as a rock and needs replacing anyway).

There is a large diameter rubber sleeve between the spider body and the throttle body, held in place by two clamps. loosen the top clamp and lift the spider body clear.

Should you succumb to the temptation to open the throttle valve and look into the "boat" under the throttle body and airflow sensor, you almost certainly will see a pool of oil in the bottom of it. This is caused by the engine sucking up oil at high rpm, and isn't an indication that your engine is about to die. Don't sweat it.

fbarnhill

Brian,
I bought the yellow kit from ebay and am doing mine right now. I would say it is virtually imposible to do it without removing the spider. It will be very difficult even leaving the tubes. I removed them all and some of them on the front is a real B%$#@ch. I am replacing them one at a time. I am using a very sharp exacto to split the old lines where they connect being carefull not to destroy the connectors. So far so good. Hopefully I will get it back together this weekend.

There are lots of things to consider when you remove the intake. Intake gasgets. Cold air valve seal ring as well as others I can't seem to remember. I wouldn't recommend doing it in one weekend if you don't have all the parts ahead of time.

Good luck with yours
Frank Barnhill
79 Euro

FlyingDog

Spray some throttle body cleaner (NOT carb cleaner) down there then wipe it out with paper towels. I don't know that it does much good, but it'll make you feel better.

soontobered84

Removing the spider body without the legs is probably a 20-30 minute (at most) job. It's the WYAIT stuff that takes the most time before you put it back together. Well worth the effort IMHO

crank71

Brian, you could try removing the manifold body without removing the intake runners and replacing the vacuum lines that way...Glenn did a nice job explaining how to do that. This might be worth a try but be warned...when I removed the manifold body by trying to push the rubber sleeves over the runners, the rubber sleeves ripped easily due to age.

Brian B

Thanks, Guys.

Besides changing the vacuum lines and replacing the rubber sleeves on the spider, what else whould you all suggest might need rehab while I'm gettin my hands dirty?

This group of guys is the best!

hacker-pschorr

O-Ring that holds the air flow meter down
Throttle body gasket is pretty easy once the center plenum is off
Large rubber ring that holds the center plenum to the throttle body
There are a few hoses that connect below the throttle body you can now get at. Such as:
Hose that feeds the oil seperator
Air conditioner idle switch
Brake booster Y-that also connects to the plenum,
Hoses on both sides of the aux-air cold start valve
Both hoses going to the heater core, and the heater valve (these will break eventually, pumping out every drop of coolant, nice way to blow a motor) - these hoses are a total bitch since they run under the windshield wiper motor. I had to remove mine for the job.

That is all I can think of at the moment

Good luck!