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Hood latch cable broke

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Old 04-20-2006, 06:27 PM
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icsmike
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Default Hood latch cable broke

I swear every time I turn around something breaks or quits. I just replaced the hood release lever assembly and the latch but not the cable. The metal crimped "stopper" on the end of the cable that attaches to inside lever slipped off. Besides replacing cable does anyone have any other ideas? If not how bad is the cable replacement? thanks, Mike
Old 04-20-2006, 07:00 PM
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jpitman2
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I dont think its too bad, from memory the cable is not that heavily concealed on its way down the fender inner. After my lever played up I pulled the latch assembly off the front and softened the spring up considerably, having checked that it wasnt tightness in the cable itself. If the inner can be removed you might be able to get a bicycle shop to crimp a new end on it. Then I would solder up the frayed end (silver is best), then you can file/grind it to a neat round end that should slide back inside readily.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
Old 04-21-2006, 12:40 PM
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icsmike
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Thanks thats a good idea.
Old 04-21-2006, 07:35 PM
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IcemanG17
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Mike I had a similar problem last year..... So the release inside the passenger compartment broke? Thats what mine did....wasn't too hard to fix....heres some pics! The WSM has a pretty good description on replacing the cable...doesn't look to bad...I was able to open the hood using a vice grip as a pivot point and pulling the cable....once I cleaned-lubed the cable the effort to pull it was much easier
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Old 04-21-2006, 07:43 PM
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jeff jackson
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Brian...did you steal the hood release backing plate from my car ??? I have one just like the one in your pic on my (soon to be ex car) ...Its being replaced at the moment, along with some trivial engine work...TB-WP, Powder coated intake...you know the drill ... (Ho-Hum)
Old 04-21-2006, 07:48 PM
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Mine broke in a similar manner IIRC. If you do replace the whole cable assy, dont go genuine - find a bicycle or BMX shop - they can usually make you a bowden cable up for any length you like, put crimped/soldered ends on the inner cable, and terminator ferrules on the outer casing and do it all properly pretty cheaply. Most of my problem was spring at the latch was far too strong for the plastic release. I was able to release hood by reaching up through the grille under the nose.
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Old 04-21-2006, 07:55 PM
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jeff jackson
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I went ahead and bought the OEM cable (~ $42 from 928 Intl.)...I can live with that for an exact fit and made for this type duty piece..



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