curious what alignment you run for the track considering you drive to each event ?
thanks
v-tach
1986.5 928-5sp/rmb/x-pipe/chips/roll bar/kirky seats - still have a/c !
1999-996 stock !

 

Front minus 3 1/2 camber (kills street tires), maxed out caster , Victor racer DOT race tire for track

 

How do you get that much camber?

 

-1.5 degrees camber all around. 10 minutes total toe in front with 20 minutes total in back. As much caster as the front will yield, but even between sides.

This will run well without eating your tires on the street.

 

the early and late a-arm are different lengths so early lower with late uppers and you get about 5 negative some well placed shims and it ends up at 3 1/2 ...

 

Thanks Jim, a couple more qs.
Is the early lower A arm a straight swap for the later one and can you have one shim pack to stock and one to track?

 

The shims are on the upper A-arm which space out the main pivot rod with the two pressed in studs so to switch back and forth you would need to access the nuts next to the engine which is not easy. I considered using bolts and putting the nuts toward the wheel to make adjustment easier. Then would have to figure out how to keep the bolts from turning , probably thin nut would act as the shim as well as holding the bolt.

 

A switchable arrangement doesn't sound like a practical solution. I've got enough problems because I was too cheap to spring for externally adjuatable shocks!

 

V-tach -

I'm running -2.5 at all four corners. This is more up front than is ideal but the Pirelli PZero Corsas I'm running wear at the outer shoulders. The shoulder stiffness is great enough. I think the most front camber we had with the stock lower wishbone was -2.0. Devek switched it out to the earlier model lower wishbone and shimmed the upper A-arm to get the -2.5.

What tires are you running?

 

just bought toyo ra 1's F 235/45/17 and R 255/40/17....

 

Excellent choice. Unlike some other tires which are notorious for requiring a ton of camber, RA-1's are pretty forgiving in this respect. If you can, try to get some tire temps across the face of the tread in the hot pits after doing several hotlaps. This is the best indicator of what camber the tire needs w/ your particular suspension setup, track layout, driving style, etc. Try to use a probe-type pyrometer - borrow one from a fellow track junkie if you don't have your own.